DIY Kitchen Renovation NZ: What You Can Legally Do Yourself

Can You DIY a Kitchen Renovation in NZ? What the Law Lets You Do Yourself

Superior RenovationsSeptember 30, 20260

Quick answer: In a DIY kitchen renovation in NZ you can legally demolish and install cabinets, fit benchtops and splashbacks, lay flooring, paint, and connect or disconnect a fixed-wired appliance on an existing circuit. Anything that touches a water pipe, a waste pipe or a gas line is restricted to a licensed tradesperson, and gas has no homeowner exemption at all.

Search for a DIY kitchen in New Zealand and the whole first page is flat-pack suppliers. Kitset carcasses, online planners, cabinets by the metre. Every one of them will happily sell you the boxes. Not one tells you which parts of the job you’re actually allowed to do once the boxes arrive.

That gap matters more in a kitchen than in any other room, because a kitchen is the only room in most Auckland houses where all three restricted trades meet in one wall: water, gas and a high-load electrical circuit. You can save real money doing a kitchen yourself, but only on the parts the law leaves open to you. The rest is someone else’s licence, or a fine with your name on it.

We design and build kitchens across Auckland, from Torbay to Mangere, and the homeowners who ask us about doing part of the job themselves are usually entirely capable of it. What they want is to know where the line sits. This guide draws it, task by task, from the legislation, the regulator and Auckland Council’s own published rules.

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A DIY Kitchen Renovation in NZ Splits Into Two Kinds of Work

Forget “do I need consent” for a moment. It is the question everyone asks first and it is the least useful one, because a kitchen remodelled within its existing space, with the sink where it was, is unlikely to need a building consent at all. The question that decides your budget is a different one: who is legally allowed to touch each part of the room?

Every kitchen job falls into one of two piles.

Building work anyone can do

Cabinets, benchtops, splashbacks, wall and floor finishes, paint, lighting positions planned on paper, and the removal of a non-structural internal wall. None of this needs a licence of any kind. Building Act Schedule 1 clause 12 exempts building work on the internal linings and finishes of any wall, ceiling or floor of an existing dwelling from consent, and there is no licensed building practitioner class for cabinetmaking or tiling. If you can do it well, it’s yours to do.

Restricted trade work

Three separate Acts cover the rest, and none of them is administered by your council:

Water and waste pipes fall under the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Act 2006, regulated by the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board.
Gas pipes and gas appliances fall under the same Act, with the technical rules in the Gas (Safety and Measurement) Regulations 2010.
Wiring falls under the Electricity Act 1992 and the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010.

Then, sitting over all of it, the finished work has to comply with the Building Code whether or not anybody inspects it. The Board says so plainly on its advice for consumers page: all work carried out at your property must meet the requirements of the Building Code, regardless of whether it requires a code compliance certificate. No consent does not mean no standard. It means nobody’s checking, and you own the consequence.

Kitchen task	Can a homeowner do it?	Consent usually needed?
Remove and install cabinets, fit benchtop, tile splashback	Yes	No (Schedule 1 clause 12)
Disconnect or reconnect the kitchen sink and waste	No, authorised plumber	No, if the sink stays put and a plumber does it
Replace a tap or tap washer	Yes	No
Add a second (scullery or prep) sink	No, authorised plumber	Yes, it is an additional sanitary fixture
Remove, swap or move a gas hob	No, licensed gasfitter	No, but certification rules apply
Connect a fixed-wired oven or cooktop to an existing circuit	Yes, within reg 57 limits	No
Run a new circuit for an induction cooktop	Only with certification before connection	No
Remove a non-load-bearing, non-bracing internal wall	Yes	No (Schedule 1 clause 11)
Remove a load-bearing or bracing wall	Restricted building work, LBP	Yes
Rangehood duct up to 300mm through wall or roof	Yes, if competent to weatherproof it	No, in a detached or up-to-three-storey dwelling (clause 14)

The rest of this guide takes each row in turn, because several of them aren’t what people expect.

💡 Quick tip: Before you order a single cabinet, walk the room and list every pipe, gas outlet and fixed-wired appliance you will need to disconnect or move. Each one on that list is a trade booking, and most of them need booking twice: once before demolition and once after install.

Plumbing in a DIY Kitchen: Even Taking the Old Sink Out Is Restricted

What the Act actually covers

Section 6 of the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Act defines sanitary plumbing as the work of fixing or unfixing any sanitary fixture or appliance and its fittings, any trap or waste pipe, and any pipe that supplies water to a fixture inside your boundary. Section 4 then defines two small words that do a lot of damage to a DIY plan. Fixing includes installing, connecting, repairing and altering. Unfixing includes removing and disconnecting.

Put that next to a kitchen. Lifting the old sink out of the benchtop and undoing the trap is unfixing a sanitary fixture. Pulling the waste pipe back out of the wall is unfixing a waste pipe. Under section 8, you must not do sanitary plumbing, or assist in doing it, unless you are authorised. Auckland Council’s kitchen and bathroom renovations page names a sink as its first example of an existing sanitary fixture, so the kitchen gets no special treatment.

Harsh, but it explains why the most common DIY kitchen sequence, rip everything out on Saturday and call the plumber on Monday, is technically restricted work before the first cabinet comes off the wall.

What you can do with water

Section 6(2) lists the carve-outs. Two matter in a kitchen:

Repairing or replacing taps, ball valves, tap washers or plugs. A new mixer on the existing sink is yours to fit.
Fixing or unfixing a dishwasher or washing machine, but only where no waste pipe or water supply pipe work is involved. Sliding a new dishwasher into the gap where the old one was, and connecting it to the existing valve and waste spigot, is fine. Creating a dishwasher position where there was none is plumbing.

The Board’s consumer page gives the same answer in plainer words. You can install appliances such as dishwashers and washing machines and replace or repair taps, ball cocks and plugs. You cannot do any work fixing or unfixing any pipe, plumbing fixture or appliance.

There is a householder exemption in section 15 of the Act, and it is not the nationwide right forums make it out to be. It only applies in places a Minister has designated, and it covers help from resident family members only. We went through its conditions in detail in our guide to what NZ law lets you do in your own bathroom, and every word of that applies to the kitchen sink too.

Moving the sink, and the second sink nobody budgets for

This is where kitchen plumbing parts company with bathroom plumbing, and it costs money.

Schedule 1 clause 35 of the Building Act 2004 exempts alterations to existing sanitary plumbing from consent, provided the total number of sanitary fixtures in the building does not go up and no specified system is affected. It sits in Part 2 of the Schedule, which is headed “sanitary plumbing and drainlaying carried out by person authorised” under the plumbing Act. MBIE’s own guidance on exemption 35 names the legally required professional as an authorised plumber, and states that plumbing done under it by anyone else is not exempt work.

So moving your sink from the window wall to a new island can sit inside the exemption, done by a plumber. MBIE’s worked example is more cautious than the clause: it describes remodelling an existing kitchen within the same space, leaving the kitchen sink in the same position. It also warns that where plumbing work could affect floor joists or wall framing, the work may need consent. An island sink on a suspended timber floor in a Grey Lynn villa means a waste pipe running through or under those joists, which is exactly the situation that warning is about. If you are not sure, MBIE’s advice is to seek a discretionary exemption from council or apply for consent rather than guess.

The second sink is where people get caught. A prep sink in the island, or a sink in a new scullery behind the kitchen, is an additional sanitary fixture. Auckland Council states that you must obtain a building consent if the work adds a sanitary fixture where there was not one before, and its minor plumbing alterations page adds a second trigger: replacing a fixture that needs a larger plumbing outlet.

That page also prices it. For minor plumbing work worth under $5,000, the consent is a $354 fixed fee with a certifying plumber’s producer statement, or $354 plus a $201 inspection fee when the work is done by someone who is not an approved installer. Council says it processes the application within 20 working days. Add a code compliance certificate application at the end, which council notes carries its own processing charges.

💡 Quick tip: If your new layout includes a scullery or butler’s pantry with its own sink, lodge the minor plumbing consent before cabinetry goes into production. Twenty working days is roughly a month, and nobody wants a finished scullery sitting dry while the paperwork catches up.

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Gas: The One Part of a Kitchen With No Homeowner Exemption

Why the hob is not yours to touch

Plumbing has its conditional householder exemption. Electrical has a real, if narrow, homeowner allowance. Gas has neither.

Section 9 of the plumbing Act says a person must not do any gasfitting, or assist in doing it, unless authorised, and the section 15 householder exemption covers sanitary plumbing only. The gas exemptions in sections 20 to 24 cover supervised work, large industrial plants, underground supply pipes and licensed gasfitters fitting water heaters. None of them was written for a homeowner with a new cooktop.

Section 5 defines gasfitting as the work of fixing or unfixing any gas pipes or any gas installation downstream of the point of supply, plus commissioning it and checking its ventilation. The Gas Act 1992 defines a gas installation as including a gas appliance, other than a portable one with its own gas container. Your built-in gas hob is part of the gas installation, so disconnecting it is gasfitting.

The Board’s consumer page draws the same line. Homeowners can work on portable appliances with the bottle attached, such as barbecues and patio heaters, and even then the Board strongly recommends a gasfitter. You cannot do any work installing, altering or repairing gas appliances, and the Board spells out that this includes gas appliances fixed within buildings that are supplied by gas bottles of any size. A hob running off two 45kg LPG bottles outside the kitchen wall in Titirangi is no more DIY-friendly than one on reticulated natural gas in Remuera.

Swapping a hob versus moving one

This is where the Gas (Safety and Measurement) Regulations 2010 make a real difference to your programme and invoice. Regulation 5A sorts gasfitting into three risk classes.

Low-risk gasfitting includes replacing a gas appliance with an equivalent one, but only where nothing changes: no repositioning of pipework or flue components, no change of installation pressure, gas type, ventilation or operation, and no significant change in energy consumption.
High-risk gasfitting includes the alteration of, or addition to, an existing installation, unless it is low-risk.
General gasfitting is everything else.

Regulation 46 then requires a certificate of compliance for all general and high-risk gasfitting, and says no such work may be treated as complete until that certificate is issued. For low-risk work the gasfitter may issue one but is not obliged to.

Translate that into kitchen decisions. A like-for-like hob swap in the same cut-out, on the same gas and the same pipe, is the simplest gas job a kitchen can have. Moving the hob to the new island means new pipework, which is an alteration to the installation, which puts it in the high-risk class with a certificate of compliance at the end. Converting from LPG bottles to natural gas changes the gas type, so it is no longer a like-for-like swap either.

Going induction still needs a gasfitter

Plenty of Auckland homeowners are pulling gas out of the kitchen altogether. Worth knowing before you start: taking the old gas hob out and making the supply safe is unfixing a gas installation, which is gasfitting. Budget a gasfitter for the disconnection even though no gas appliance is going back in. Then budget an electrician for the other end of the job, which is the next section.

There is a supervised route in section 21. You may do gasfitting if a licensed gasfitter supervises it, no pipe or appliance is connected to gas while you work, and the supervisor tests, certifies and connects it. It’s a legitimate arrangement, but it’s one you agree with a gasfitter before you start, not one you try to invoke afterwards.

Important note: Under section 123(2) of the plumbing Act, an individual who does gasfitting in breach of section 9 is liable to a fine of up to $50,000. Unlicensed sanitary plumbing carries a maximum of $10,000 under section 123(1). This is general information from the Act, not legal advice.

Electrical Work in a DIY Kitchen Renovation: Narrower Than You Hope, Wider Than You Fear

The homeowner exemption, and its six conditions

Unlike gas, electrical work does have a homeowner route. Section 79 of the Electricity Act 1992 lets the owner of premises they live in do electrical wiring work, or help with it, if all of these hold:

the work is within the limits set by regulations
it follows the regulations
it is done in a competent and safe manner
no part of the work is connected to a power supply while it is being done
where the regulations require it, it is tested and certified by a licensed electrical worker before connection
where required, that same licensed person connects it.

What regulation 57 lets you wire

Regulation 57 of the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010 sets those limits. It applies to a domestic installation with a maximum demand of up to 80 amps per phase on single-phase supply, and the work must be carried out and tested to the homeowner code of practice, ECP 51. The list is short, and several items land squarely in a kitchen:

Connecting and disconnecting fixed-wired appliances. An oven or a cooktop that connects to an existing circuit is inside the list.
Relocating existing switches, socket-outlets and lighting outlets that are supplied by tough plastic-sheathed cable. Shifting a power point from the old splashback line to the new one fits here.
Removing and replacing switches, socket-outlets and light fittings, provided the work does not involve the switchboard.
Installing, extending and altering subcircuits, but only if you never enter an enclosure where live conductors are likely to be present, and the work is tested and certified to Part 2 of AS/NZS 3000 by a person authorised to inspect mains work before it is connected.

That last item is the one to read slowly. If your new induction cooktop needs a new circuit from the switchboard, you can legally run the cable through the framing while the walls are open. You cannot terminate it in the switchboard, and it cannot be switched on until an inspector has tested and certified it. In practice that means a licensed electrician is part of the job anyway, so agree with them up front what you will run and what they will do.

Section 162 of the Electricity Act sets the maximum fine for an individual doing prescribed electrical work in breach of the licensing rules at $50,000. Section 79 is a defined list with a certification step built into its riskiest item, and work outside that list is exposed to the fine.

When the kitchen reveals the rest of the house

Kitchens tend to expose the wiring behind them. On the Scandinavian kitchen we designed and built in Torbay, the scope included a full rewire alongside the new kitchen, bathroom and laundry. Pulling the cabinets off an older wall is often the first proper look anyone has had at the cable behind them. Do the kitchen yourself and you’ll see the same thing, just without an electrician already booked for the week.

💡 Quick tip: Mark every appliance position, including the rangehood, microwave drawer, under-cabinet lighting and the dishwasher, on the cabinet plan before the electrician’s first visit. Relocating a socket after the cabinets are in means cutting a finished panel.

Walls, Rangehood Ducts and the Parts That Touch the Structure

Opening up the kitchen

The wall between the kitchen and dining room is the one plenty of Auckland homeowners want gone. Schedule 1 clause 11 exempts building work on an internal wall from consent unless the wall is load-bearing, a bracing element, a firewall, part of a specified system, or masonry.

The catch is the second word on that list. A wall that carries no roof load can still be a bracing element, and you cannot tell by knocking on it. MBIE’s guidance on internal walls and doorways puts it bluntly: internal walls often contain bracing elements. Its exempt example is a homeowner who removes a section of timber-framed wall to make room for a new kitchen after discussing it with a Licensed Building Practitioner and being satisfied the section is neither load-bearing nor bracing. Its consent example is a homeowner told, after a quick site visit by an LBP, that the hallway-to-kitchen wall they wanted to remove was load-bearing.

If the wall is structural, two things change at once. The work needs a building consent, and because it alters the primary structure of a house and involves carpentry, it becomes restricted building work under clause 5 of the Building (Definition of Restricted Building Work) Order 2011. That has to be carried out or supervised by an LBP.

There is an owner-builder exemption with its own conditions, but Auckland Council notes it does not cover electrical, gas, plumbing or drainage work unless the owner-builder holds the relevant licence. For a load-bearing wall, talk to an LBP or a chartered engineer before you buy a beam, and talk to council about the consent. Our guide to how a kitchen renovation runs from design to handover shows where that consent step sits in the programme.

Rangehood ducting through the wall or roof

Now some good news. Schedule 1 clause 14 exempts making a penetration up to 300mm in diameter for pipes, ducts, cables and the like, with the associated weatherproofing and sealing, through a detached dwelling or a dwelling in a building of no more than three storeys. MBIE’s own worked example on penetrations is an extractor fan above a kitchen hob, vented through the roof with a 200mm duct. Consent-exempt.

Exempt is not the same as easy. The duct goes through your cladding or your roofing, which is your weathertightness. MBIE’s same page tells owners to make sure whoever does it is competent and understands the Building Code’s structural, weatherproofing and fire requirements, and warns that non-compliant work may affect insurance cover and future sale and purchase agreements. A badly flashed duct through the weatherboards of a 1990s Albany house is a leak on a very long fuse.

Apartments and terraced housing are different. Clause 14(2) applies there, and the penetration must not affect the primary structure or any specified system, such as fire separation. Council gives exactly that as a reason moving fixtures in an apartment needs consent.

💡 Quick tip: Check the rangehood’s installation manual for the duct diameter before you pick the exit point. A duct sized to the manufacturer’s spec, taken the shortest route out, is quieter and pulls more air than a smaller one with three bends.

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What a DIY Kitchen Actually Saves, and Where the Money Goes

The published price bands

Our renovation FAQ puts a mid-range Auckland kitchen renovation at $26,000 to $35,000 plus GST for a 10 to 12m² kitchen with custom cabinets, stone benchtops and quality appliances. Basic refreshes start from $15,000, and a small kitchen with a similar layout, no structural changes and no plumbing relocation starts from around $15,000 to $25,000. Luxury custom kitchens reach $138,000 and more. Auckland trade labour runs at $120 to $150 an hour.

Look at what the small-kitchen band assumes: no structural changes and no plumbing relocation. Those two conditions are also the two biggest things a DIY plan cannot do without trades or consent. Every row that moves in the table at the top of this guide moves you out of the cheapest band, whoever does the carpentry. For the full breakdown by tier, see what a kitchen renovation costs in Auckland.

The labour you can take on

Strip out the licensed trades and the work left for a capable homeowner is demolition of cabinets (after the plumber and gasfitter have disconnected), cabinet assembly and installation, splashback tiling, flooring, painting and the reg 57 electrical list. That’s real labour, and at $120 to $150 an hour it’s real money.

What does not shrink: the plumber’s two visits, the gasfitter’s visit, the electrician and any inspector, benchtop templating and fitting if you choose stone, and any consent fee. We won’t give you a percentage saving, because there isn’t an honest single number. It depends almost entirely on how many rows of that table your kitchen touches. Put your scope into the calculator and compare it against the trade quotes you would need anyway.

What you give up

The hidden cost of a DIY kitchen is coordination. The plumber has to disconnect before you demolish and reconnect after you install. The electrician needs to see open walls. The benchtop fabricator templates off finished cabinets, so the cabinets must be dead level first. Every gap between those visits is a week without a working kitchen.

That sequencing is most of what you’re actually paying a renovation company for. Our cabinetry is made by Little Giant Interiors in our own Rosedale factory, which moved from a 150m² unit in Henderson to a 700m² facility in January 2023 and has a dedicated assembly section where cabinets are put together and checked before they go to site. What matters to you is that the timing of the cabinets is something we control rather than chase. If you’d rather have one team book the plumber, gasfitter and electrician around your cabinets, that is the service.

A DIY kitchen plan that stays legal

Draw the final layout first. Mark the sink, hob, oven, dishwasher, rangehood and every socket.
Count the sanitary fixtures. If the number goes up, lodge a minor plumbing consent.
Get an LBP opinion on any wall you want to remove, before you commit to the layout.
Book a plumber and a gasfitter to disconnect before demolition, and agree the reconnection date.
Agree the electrical split in writing with a licensed electrician, including who certifies any new circuit.
Install and level the cabinets, then book benchtop templating.
Tile, floor and paint while you wait for the benchtop.
Keep every certificate: gas certificate of compliance, electrical certification, plumbing records and any code compliance certificate. You will need them when you sell.

Where the Line Sits

A DIY kitchen renovation in NZ is legal. For a practical homeowner it can be a good way to spend less. The law leaves you the carpentry, the finishes and a short, specific list of electrical work. It keeps the water, the waste, the gas and anything structural for licensed people, and it charges you a consent the moment you add a sink.

Plan around that line and you’ll do the parts you’re good at, and pay for the parts you legally have to. Plan around a flat-pack catalogue and you’ll find the line halfway through demolition, with the old sink on the lawn and nobody booked to cap the waste.

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Can I do my own kitchen renovation in NZ?

Yes, within limits. A homeowner can remove and install cabinets, fit benchtops and splashbacks, lay flooring, paint and remove a non-structural internal wall without a licence. Work on water and waste pipes needs an authorised plumber under the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Act 2006, gas work needs a licensed gasfitter, and electrical work is limited to the homeowner list in regulation 57 of the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010.

Do I need a building consent for a DIY kitchen renovation?

Usually not. MBIE and Auckland Council both say remodelling an existing kitchen within the same space, with the sink in the same position, is unlikely to need consent, and new linings and finishes are exempt under Schedule 1 clause 12. You do need consent to add a sanitary fixture such as a second sink, and to remove a load-bearing or bracing wall. The plumbing exemptions only apply when an authorised plumber does the work.

Can I install a flat-pack kitchen myself in NZ?

You can assemble and install the cabinets, fit the doors and hardware, and fit a laminate benchtop yourself, because cabinetry is not licensed work. What you cannot do is disconnect or reconnect the sink and waste, create a new dishwasher connection, or disconnect or connect a gas hob. Book an authorised plumber and a licensed gasfitter before demolition so the old kitchen can come out legally.

Can I connect my own gas hob in NZ?

No. Gasfitting has no homeowner exemption. The Gas Act 1992 treats a built-in gas appliance as part of the gas installation, so fixing or unfixing it is gasfitting under section 9 of the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Act. The Board states this applies to appliances fixed in buildings on gas bottles of any size. The maximum fine for an individual is $50,000.

Can I install my own oven or induction cooktop?

You can connect or disconnect a fixed-wired oven or cooktop on an existing circuit under regulation 57 of the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010, provided you follow the homeowner code of practice and nothing is live while you work. A new circuit for an induction cooktop can only be run by a homeowner if they never enter a live enclosure and the work is tested and certified by an authorised inspector before connection.

Can I plumb in my own kitchen sink or dishwasher?

Not the sink. Fixing or unfixing a sanitary fixture, its trap or its waste pipe is sanitary plumbing, and the Act defines unfixing as removing and disconnecting. You can replace a tap or tap washer yourself. You can fit a dishwasher where no waste or water supply pipe work is involved, such as a straight swap onto an existing valve and waste connection.

Does adding a second sink or scullery sink need building consent?

Yes. A second sink is an additional sanitary fixture, and Auckland Council requires a building consent when a sanitary fixture is added where there was not one before. For minor plumbing under $5,000, council charges a $354 fixed fee with a certifying plumber's producer statement, or $354 plus a $201 inspection fee if the installer is not approved. Council says it processes applications within 20 working days.

Can I move my kitchen sink to an island without consent?

Possibly. Schedule 1 clause 35 of the Building Act exempts alterations to existing sanitary plumbing that do not increase the number of sanitary fixtures, but only when an authorised plumber does the work. MBIE warns that plumbing which could affect floor joists or wall framing may need consent, which is a real risk for an island waste run in a suspended timber floor. If in doubt, ask council for a discretionary exemption.

Can I remove a wall to open up my kitchen?

If the wall is not load-bearing, not a bracing element, not a firewall and not masonry, Schedule 1 clause 11 exempts it from consent and you can remove it yourself. MBIE notes internal walls often contain bracing elements, and its own kitchen example has the owner confirm with a Licensed Building Practitioner first. A structural wall needs consent and is restricted building work that an LBP must carry out or supervise.

Do I need consent to install a rangehood duct through the wall or roof?

Usually not. Schedule 1 clause 14 exempts a penetration up to 300mm in diameter, with its weatherproofing and sealing, through a detached dwelling or a dwelling in a building of up to three storeys. MBIE's own example is a kitchen hob extractor vented through the roof with a 200mm duct. The work must still meet the Building Code for weathertightness, and apartments must not affect structure or fire separation.

What are the penalties for doing restricted kitchen work yourself?

Under section 123 of the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers Act 2006, an individual faces a fine of up to $10,000 for unlicensed sanitary plumbing and up to $50,000 for unlicensed gasfitting. Section 162 of the Electricity Act 1992 sets a maximum of $50,000 for an individual doing prescribed electrical work in breach of the licensing rules. Plumbing done by an unauthorised person also loses its consent exemption.

How much does a kitchen renovation cost in Auckland?

Our live FAQ puts a mid-range Auckland kitchen renovation at $26,000 to $35,000 plus GST for a 10 to 12 square metre kitchen with custom cabinets, stone benchtops and quality appliances. Basic refreshes start from $15,000, a small kitchen with a similar layout and no plumbing relocation starts from around $15,000 to $25,000, and luxury kitchens reach $138,000 and more. Trade labour runs $120 to $150 an hour.

Further Resources for your kitchen renovation

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland
The stage-by-stage programme in our kitchen renovation stages guide
The bathroom version of this guide: can you DIY an Auckland bathroom renovation?

Need more information?

Take advantage of our FREE Complete Home Renovation Guide (48 pages), whether you’re already renovating or in the process of deciding to renovate, it’s not an easy process, this guide which includes a free 100+ point check list – will help you avoid costly mistakes.

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