Superior Renovations, Author at Superior Renovations

Free cost calculator

How much will your house extension cost?

Get an instant Auckland price range for your project — no details required to see it.

Quick answer: Get a personalised house extension cost estimate emailed straight to your inbox in under 60 seconds. No phone calls, no sales pitches, no waiting on a builder’s diary. Tell us your project basics, and we’ll send back a project-specific number based on real 2026 Auckland pricing.

You’re thinking about extending. You’ve done the basics, pulled up online ranges, looked at a few builder websites, probably had a mate at a barbecue throw out a figure that may or may not be from this decade. What you actually need is a number that fits your project. Your house. Your section. Your space.

That’s what this calculator gives you.

Get Your Personalised Estimate

Sixty seconds, ten quick questions, and a tailored estimate hits your inbox. Free. No follow-up sales call.

Open House Extension Cost Calculator →

Why a Calculator Beats a Generic “Per m²” Estimate

Most online sources will tell you a house extension in Auckland costs $2,000–$5,500 per square metre. That’s accurate, and our full Auckland house extension cost guide works through where inside that band different projects land. It’s also useless for budget planning.

The range exists because extensions vary wildly. A 30m² bedroom addition on a flat section in Flat Bush sits at the bottom end. A 50m² addition with a new kitchen and bathroom on a sloping site in Titirangi sits near the top. Both are “house extensions in Auckland.” Both are technically inside that $2,000–$5,500 spread. Both cost vastly different amounts.

The per-m² range alone doesn’t tell you which one you are.

That’s where the calculator earns its keep. Instead of giving you a number that covers everyone, it asks the specific questions that move your number, size, type of rooms, whether you’re going up or out, site complexity, and gives you a tailored estimate based on what those choices actually cost in Auckland right now.

It takes about a minute. Results land in your inbox.

What Goes Into the Estimate

The calculator works through the same variables we use when we’re pricing a real project. None of it’s guesswork, every input maps to a cost driver we’ve seen on completed Superior Renovations jobs.

Built from data across hundreds of Auckland renovations completed since 2018, including ground-floor extensions, second-storey additions, and garage conversions.

Size of the extension. Square metres is the starting point, but it’s not linear. A 30m² extension often costs more per square metre than a 60m² one because fixed costs (consents, design, engineering) don’t scale down. The calculator factors that in instead of just multiplying area by a flat rate.

Type of space. A dry room, bedroom, living area, study, costs significantly less than a kitchen or bathroom. Wet areas need plumbing, waterproofing, ventilation, and higher-spec fixtures. Adding a bathroom to an extension typically adds $25,000–$45,000 on top of the dry-room build cost.

Single or double storey. Going up is more expensive than going out, usually 40–60% more per square metre once you factor in structural reinforcement, scaffolding, and the work needed to make the existing house carry a new floor.

Site conditions. Flat section or sloped? Easy access for trucks and trades, or a tight build? Volcanic clay, reactive soil, or a straightforward concrete slab job? Foundations alone can swing the budget by $30,000+.

Finish level. Standard weatherboard and vinyl plank, or cedar cladding and engineered timber? The choice between budget and premium materials makes a five-figure difference on most extensions.

You don’t need to know exact specs going in. The calculator gives you a sensible default for each input, your job is to tell it what you’re roughly planning, and the estimate adjusts to suit.

💡 Quick tip: If you’re not sure about an input, pick the option closest to what you’re imagining. You can always run it again with different inputs to see how the number shifts, it takes a minute.

See Your Personalised Number

Inputs take a minute. The estimate hits your inbox right after.

Open House Extension Cost Calculator →

Thinking about a house extension?
Open the calculator →

Going Up or Going Out: How the Calculator Treats a Two-Storey Extension

This is the single biggest fork in the estimate, and the one most people underestimate before they run the numbers.

A second-storey extension costs roughly 40 to 60% more per square metre than the same floor area added at ground level. That gap is not builder margin. It comes from work that a ground-floor extension simply never needs.

Why Going Up Costs More

The existing house has to carry the new floor. That usually means steel beams, new or reinforced foundations under the load path, and an engineer’s involvement from the design stage.
The roof comes off. Temporary weatherproofing over an occupied house is a real cost line and a real risk line, and it is the part of the programme most exposed to weather.
Scaffolding all round, for the full duration, rather than the partial staging a single-storey build gets by with.
A staircase has to go somewhere, and that somewhere is usually carved out of existing rooms, so part of the budget is spent renovating space you already had.
Services run further. Plumbing, drainage and electrical all have to reach a floor that didn’t exist.

Why Going Out Isn’t Automatically Cheaper

Ground-floor extensions win on structure and lose on land. Going out consumes section, which matters on a small or awkward site, and it brings its own cost drivers: new foundations across the full footprint, site works, drainage relocation, and the planning rules that govern how close to a boundary you can build and how much of your site can be covered.

On a tight urban section, going up is often the only option that works, and the comparison stops being about cost per square metre. On a generous flat section in Flat Bush or Papakura, going out is usually the better value.

If a second storey is what you’re weighing, our breakdown of the cost of adding a second storey goes into the structural side properly. Worth checking the alternatives too: a loft or attic conversion can buy a bedroom without a new floor, and a garage conversion is usually the cheapest square metres on the property because the shell already exists.

What Different Extension Sizes Actually Buy You

Before you put a number into the calculator, it helps to know what the number is buying. These are the shapes of Auckland extension we’re asked to price most often.

Small Extensions (roughly 10–25m²)

A bump-out for a dining area, a bedroom added to the rear, an ensuite and walk-in wardrobe off the main bedroom, or a proper entry and mudroom on a house that never had one. Small extensions have the worst cost-per-square-metre and the best cost-per-outcome. Consent, design, engineering and site setup cost roughly what they cost on a bigger job, so the per-metre rate sits high, but the total is the lowest way to solve a specific problem.

The trap to avoid at this size is a small extension that triggers a large amount of work inside the existing house. Cutting a new opening through a load-bearing wall, or moving a bathroom to make the layout work, can cost more than the new floor area did.

Mid-Size Extensions (roughly 25–50m²)

The most common brief we see: open up the back of the house into a kitchen, dining and living space, usually with better indoor-outdoor flow than the original layout allowed. This is where a open-plan living renovation and an extension usually become the same project, because the new space only works if the existing walls change too.

Budget realistically for the existing house here, not just the new part. Reworking the old kitchen area, re-levelling floors between old and new, and matching or deliberately contrasting the cladding are all inside the scope, and all get left out of optimistic early numbers.

Large Extensions (50m²+)

A whole new wing, a second storey, or an extension that comes with a full renovation of what’s already there. Past a certain point the honest question stops being how much the extension costs and becomes whether extending is the right move at all, particularly on an older house where the existing structure, wiring and insulation will all need attention anyway. Our comparison of renovating versus rebuilding is the one to read before committing at this scale.

At every size, the constraint that decides what’s possible is your site and the planning rules that apply to it, not the build. Planning a house extension covers that groundwork, and if you want the whole thing handled as one job, that is what designing and building an extension onto an existing Auckland home involves.

What You Get in Your Inbox

A couple of minutes after you submit, you’ll receive an email with a project-specific estimate. Here’s what’s in it:

A low-to-high range based on the inputs you provided. Not a single point estimate, because no honest builder gives you one before a site visit. The range shows you where your project realistically sits.

A breakdown of the main cost categories, construction, finishes, professional fees, consents, so you can see where the money goes and where the biggest swings are.

Notes on what the estimate doesn’t include. Typically GST, resource consent (if triggered), and any unforeseen ground or structural issues that only become visible once construction starts. We’d rather flag the limits than pretend they don’t exist.

It’s not a quote. Quotes need site visits, drawings, and detailed scope. The estimate is the layer before that, the number that tells you whether your project sits in a budget you can work with, or whether you need to rescope before going further.

If the number looks workable, the next step is usually a feasibility consultation, where we walk through your specific property, what you’re trying to achieve, and what’s realistic on your section. That’s a separate conversation, and one you can book after you’ve seen the estimate, not before.

The Three Variables That Move Your Number the Most

If you’ve used the calculator and want to understand what drove your result, these three factors do most of the heavy lifting.

1. Foundations and structural work, 20–40% of the total. The single biggest swing factor on most Auckland extensions. A flat-section ground-floor extension on basic slab foundations is dramatically cheaper than a second-storey addition needing steel beams, reinforced foundations, and scaffolding. If you’re on a steep site in Titirangi, Mt Eden, or Remuera, expect this category to push higher because of piling and retaining work.

2. Wet areas, kitchen and bathroom additions. Adding either to your extension materially increases the per-m² rate. Bathrooms add $25,000–$45,000. Kitchens add $28,000–$50,000. If your goal is purely more living space, a bedroom or open-plan living extension is going to come in considerably lower than the same square metres with a kitchen or bathroom inside it.

3. Labour and trade coordination, 40–50% of the total. Auckland trade rates currently sit at $90–$120/hour depending on the trade. A 50m² extension typically needs 800–1,200 trade hours. The reason fixed-price builders quote higher than charge-up builders isn’t margin, it’s the risk premium for guaranteeing the number. The flip side: charge-up budgets often blow by 15–20% once schedule slip and coordination losses kick in.

Knowing which of these three is the biggest factor on your project tells you where to focus when you’re trying to bring the number down, or where to brace yourself if it has to stay where it is.

Get Your Free Estimate Now

Sixty seconds. Tailored to your project. Sent to your inbox. No sales call.

Open House Extension Cost Calculator →

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the house extension cost calculator free?

Yes. No charge, no obligation, no follow-up sales calls. Built by Superior Renovations to give Auckland homeowners a realistic starting estimate without having to chase a builder for one.

How accurate is the estimate?

The calculator uses 2026 Auckland market pricing and reflects real Superior Renovations project data. It's accurate enough for budget planning and feasibility, but it isn't a quote. Final pricing depends on detailed scope, site visit, and the specifications you settle on during design.

What's the average cost to extend a house per square metre in Auckland?

Single-storey ground-floor extensions in Auckland sit at $2,000–$5,500 per square metre. Basic dry-room additions are at the lower end. Wet-area extensions and complex sites push toward the top. Second-storey additions add another 40–60% on top of the ground-floor rate.

Does a house extension require building consent in Auckland?

Yes, almost every house extension triggers building consent because it changes the building footprint and usually involves structural work. Auckland Council consent fees typically run $3,000–$8,000 for residential extensions, with resource consent adding more if you breach boundary or height-to-boundary rules.

How much more does a second-storey extension cost than a single-storey?

Roughly 40–60% more per square metre. Second-storey additions need structural reinforcement of the existing house, steel beams, scaffolding, and temporary roof removal, none of which apply to a ground-floor extension.

Does the estimate include GST?

The estimate is GST-exclusive unless otherwise specified. You'll need to add GST when comparing the estimate to other builder quotes. Architect fees, structural engineering, and council consent fees are also typically excluded from the initial estimate, they get factored in during the detailed quoting stage.

How long does it take to get the estimate?

Under 60 seconds to complete the form. The estimate lands in your inbox within a couple of minutes.

Can I get a fixed quote without using the calculator first?

You can, but the calculator's the cheapest way to gauge whether your project fits your budget before committing time to a full design and quoting process. Fixed quotes need scope, drawings, and a site visit, which adds weeks before you see a number. The calculator gives you a starting figure today.

Can I use the calculator estimate for my mortgage or finance application?

The calculator gives you a realistic project range based on real Auckland pricing, which is useful for early budget conversations with your bank or broker. But banks usually require a signed fixed-price contract or a registered valuer's report before they'll release renovation finance against a property. Treat the estimate as the figure that tells you whether the conversation is worth having, then book a feasibility consultation if you need a quotable number.

What happens after I submit, will someone call me?

No sales call. The estimate lands in your inbox within a couple of minutes and that's it. If you want to take the next step, you book a feasibility consultation through the site, we don't chase you with phone calls or follow-up emails. Plenty of Auckland homeowners use the calculator to sense-check budget without ever speaking to us, and that's the point.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ Run your project through the house extension cost calculator
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Further Resources for your house extension

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland
House extension cost in NZ and Auckland – the full cost guide
Planning a house extension – site, rules and sequence

Need more information?

Take advantage of our FREE Complete Home Renovation Guide (48 pages), whether you’re already renovating or in the process of deciding to renovate, it’s not an easy process, this guide which includes a free 100+ point check list – will help you avoid costly mistakes.

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

Q Mastercard 18 month interest free finance option for Superior Renovations house extensions

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

Please note: Cost factors vary project to project, and the calculator’s accuracy depends on the inputs you provide. The estimate is a planning tool, not a quote. Rates and material costs shift with the market, and final project pricing requires a site visit and detailed scope. While information is considered current at the date of publication, Superior Renovations isn’t liable for any decisions made solely on the calculator output.

Recladding

House Recladding Cost Calculator Tool (NZ)

August 3, 20260

Quick answer: recladding a house in Auckland typically runs from around $1,450 per square metre for a standard home to about $2,175 per square metre for an architectural one, before fees. On a mid-sized home that usually means a total somewhere between $150,000 and $350,000 once you add architectural fees, council consent and scaffolding. Leaky or monolithic-clad homes sit at the higher end because of what’s found once the old cladding comes off.

Recladding is one of the biggest spends a homeowner will face, and vague “it depends” answers don’t help you plan. Here’s how the cost actually breaks down, what changes the number, how long the job takes, and a way to get a figure for your own home in about a minute.

Free tool

Get an indicative recladding cost for your Auckland home

Open the recladding cost calculator →

How much does recladding cost in NZ?

We price recladding on a per-square-metre basis, set by the type of home, because that’s what drives the labour and materials. These are the indicative Auckland rates behind our calculator:

Home type	Indicative cost
Standard home (mix of plaster and brick)	from $1,450 per m²
Leaky / plaster home	from $1,837 per m²
Architectural home	from $2,175 per m²

On top of the per-metre rate, three costs are usually added because recladding almost always triggers a building consent:

Architectural and design fees – around $10,150, because a reclad needs documented plans for consent.
Auckland Council consent fees – around $4,995.
Scaffolding and full wrap – around $35,000 for a full reclad, though this varies with height and access.

These are indicative figures to help you plan, not a fixed quote. Every reclad is different once the cladding comes off. For a wider look at materials, our cladding options guide runs through the choices, and our national recladding cost guide goes deeper on how those figures compare across the country.

💡 Quick tip: The single biggest variable is what’s behind the cladding. Rotten framing and damp-damaged structure found mid-project is the most common reason a reclad budget moves, so build in a contingency.

What does it cost to reclad a whole house?

Let’s put real numbers on it. Take a standard single-storey Auckland home with around 150 square metres of wall area. At $1,450 per m² that’s about $217,500 for the cladding work, and once you add architectural fees, council consent and scaffolding you’re near $270,000. A larger two-storey home, or one classed as leaky or architectural, climbs from there.

That’s why a total like “$330,000” only means something next to your home’s size and type. Plug your wall area and home type into the recladding cost calculator and it does the maths for you, including the consent and scaffolding costs most guides leave out.

One thing worth knowing before you compare quotes: recladding sits well over the threshold at which a written building contract stops being optional. MBIE is explicit that a contractor must provide a written contract for residential building work costing $30,000 or more, including GST, along with a consumer protection checklist and a disclosure statement. On a reclad you should have all three before anything is signed. If you’re still weighing up who to give the job to, our guide on choosing the right renovation company covers what to check.

Replacement cladding options and what they do to the price

The rate table above is set by home type, but the cladding system you choose on the way back on moves the number too. Two homes of identical size can land a long way apart depending on what goes back up, how much detailing it needs, and whether the substrate has to change to suit it.

These are the systems we most often specify on an Auckland reclad, and how they tend to sit against each other on cost:

Replacement cladding	Relative cost on a reclad	What drives it
Fibre-cement weatherboard	Lower to mid	Fast to fix, forgiving on older framing, painted finish is a recurring maintenance cost.
Timber weatherboard	Mid	Profile and timber species; the labour to fix and finish it is where the money goes, not the board.
Modern plaster over a cavity system	Mid to higher	Multi-stage finish and controlled drying time; the cavity behind it is what separates it from 1990s monolithic work.
Brick veneer	Higher	Needs a foundation ledge to sit on, so it is rarely a straight swap on a house that was never bricked.
Vertical panel and board-and-batten systems	Mid to higher	Junction and flashing detail around windows; the panels are the cheap part, the detailing isn’t.
Mixed cladding (weatherboard plus a feature material)	Higher	Every change of material is another junction to flash and seal, and junctions are where the labour sits.

What it costs to reclad a weatherboard home

A weatherboard house is usually the more straightforward reclad, and it tends to sit at the standard rate rather than the leaky-home one. The boards come off, the building wrap and any damaged framing are dealt with, and new boards go back on. What lifts the price is rot in the framing behind, and the fact that older weatherboard homes were often built without a drained cavity – so bringing the wall up to a current-code system is part of the job, not an optional extra.

Whichever system you choose, it has to satisfy Building Code clause E2, which requires that external roof and wall claddings and openings prevent external moisture from causing undue dampness or damage, per MBIE’s Building Performance guidance on E2 external moisture. That is the standard your new wall has to meet, and it is why a reclad is a design job before it is a building job.

💡 Quick tip: If you’re replacing windows anyway, do it during the reclad. The walls are already open and the scaffold is already up, so the same work costs far less than doing it as a separate project two years later.

Recladding a leaky or monolithic home

A lot of Auckland recladding is driven by leaky-building issues, especially on monolithic-clad homes from the late 1990s and early 2000s. These sit at the higher $1,837 per m² rate because the work is rarely just cladding – once the monolithic plaster is off, you often find damaged framing that has to be replaced and treated before the new system goes on.

If your home is monolithic-clad and you’ve seen damp patches, swelling around windows, or a musty smell, it’s worth acting early. The longer moisture sits in the frame, the bigger the repair. For the weathertightness background, the Building Performance (MBIE) guidance is the authority, and our post on monolithic cladding in NZ covers the warning signs.

What leaky home repair costs actually cover

People search for leaky home repair costs expecting a separate price list. There isn’t one, and that’s the honest answer: on almost every Auckland job, the leaky-home repair is the reclad. The rate you’re quoted already assumes the wall comes off and the structure behind it gets assessed.

What sits inside the per-square-metre rate:

Removing the failed cladding and any saturated building wrap.
Installing a drained and vented cavity system behind the new cladding.
New flashings at every window, door and junction – the detail that usually failed in the first place.
The new cladding and its finish.

What sits outside it, and belongs in your contingency:

Structural framing replacement. Nobody can price this before the cladding is off, because nobody can see it. This is the number that moves.
Internal repairs where moisture reached linings, insulation or flooring.
Window and joinery replacement, if the units themselves have failed rather than just their flashings.

Important note: If you were counting on the Weathertight Homes Resolution Service, that door has closed. MBIE confirms the deadline to bring a claim expired on 31 December 2021 and no new claims can be lodged. For anything to do with your own legal position, take advice from a property lawyer rather than a builder.

Recladding across Auckland: where the demand sits

Monolithic and plaster homes aren’t spread evenly across the city. The subdivisions built through the late 1990s and early 2000s cluster hard on the North Shore, which is why so much of the recladding work we quote comes from Albany, Rosedale, Glenfield, Browns Bay, Torbay and Devonport, with a steady stream from Takapuna and the newer pockets out toward Hobsonville.

Being based on the Shore is part of why we take on this work rather than avoiding it. Our showroom is at 16B Link Drive, Wairau Valley, which puts most of those suburbs inside a fifteen-minute drive – it means a site visit before quoting is normal rather than a favour, and it means the project manager can actually be there on the day the cladding comes off and the framing is exposed. That is the day the scope changes on a reclad.

The other half of it is the design and consent stage. A reclad can’t start without documented plans and a consent, and since December 2024 that work has sat inside the group with Sonder Architecture, a team of architectural designers who prepare the drawings a consent application needs and liaise with the council so the paperwork keeps pace with the build. We coordinate that process on your behalf; the council still issues the consent, and any restricted building work is handled by the appropriate licensed people. If you want to see how the whole sequence runs, from weathertightness assessment through to the final sign-off, that’s what the team that strips, repairs and re-clads Auckland homes does week in, week out.

Do you need consent to reclad?

In most cases, yes – recladding a house is building work that needs an Auckland Council building consent. That’s why architectural and consent fees are built into a realistic budget. There are narrow exceptions for minor like-for-like repairs, but a full reclad almost always needs plans, a consent, and inspections. We walk through the detail in can I reclad my house without building consent, and confirm the exact pathway with Auckland Council as part of the project.

Treat this as general information rather than a ruling on your own house. Whether your specific job is exempt, and what restricted building work it involves, is a question for Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner.

How long does a reclad take, and can you stay in the house?

Two questions come up in almost every first conversation, and the honest answers are less alarming than most people expect.

The timeline

The build itself is not usually the long part. Design and consent come first, and that stage has its own rhythm: measured drawings, a consent application, council processing, then any requests for further information. Only then does the scaffold go up.

Once on site, a straightforward single-storey reclad typically runs several weeks. A larger two-storey home, or one where significant framing has to be replaced, runs longer – and the extension almost always traces back to what was found behind the old cladding rather than to the new cladding itself. Your project manager sets a realistic programme once the scope is confirmed after removal, which is the only point at which a date means anything.

Living in the house

Most people stay. The work is happening on the outside of your walls, so the kitchen and bathroom keep working and you keep sleeping in your own bed. What you live with is scaffolding wrapped around the house, reduced natural light through the wrap, noise during the day, and a period where some rooms are noticeably cooler because their wall is temporarily just framing and building paper.

Where it gets harder is if windows are being replaced at the same time, or if internal linings have to come off to reach damaged framing. We sequence that room by room so the house stays liveable. If you’d rather not be there for the messy fortnight, say so early – it’s much easier to plan the noisy work around a booked absence than to arrange one at short notice. Our guide to staying put versus moving out during a renovation works through that decision properly.

What drives the final recladding cost

Home type and cladding system – the biggest lever, from standard through to architectural.
Structural repairs – rotten or damp framing found once the old cladding is off.
Height and access – two-storey homes and tight sites need more scaffolding.
New windows and joinery – many owners replace windows while the walls are open.
Finishes – the cladding material and any painting or detailing you choose.
Roof condition – if the roof is near the end of its life, doing it while the scaffold is already up saves a second mobilisation. Our Auckland reroofing cost guide covers what that adds.

Recladding is a major project, but it’s also a chance to lift a home’s warmth, weathertightness and value in one hit. The first step is a realistic number. Start with the recladding cost calculator, read the wider picture in our Auckland home renovation guide, then request a free feasibility report for a measured quote from the Superior Renovations team.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ Price your reclad with the recladding cost calculator
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Free tool

Price your reclad in under a minute

Open the recladding cost calculator →

How much does it cost to reclad a house in NZ?

In Auckland, recladding runs from about $1,450 per square metre for a standard home, $1,837 for a leaky or plaster home, and $2,175 for an architectural home, before fees. Once you add architectural fees (around $10,150), council consent (around $4,995) and scaffolding (around $35,000), a mid-sized home usually totals between $150,000 and $350,000.

How much does it cost to reclad a monolithic house?

Monolithic-clad homes usually sit at the higher leaky-home rate of around $1,837 per square metre, because removing the plaster often reveals damaged framing that must be replaced and treated. That structural repair is the main reason monolithic reclads cost more than a straightforward one.

How much does it cost to reclad a weatherboard home?

A weatherboard home is usually the more straightforward reclad and tends to sit at the standard rate of around $1,450 per square metre rather than the leaky-home rate. The two things that move it are rot in the framing behind the boards, and the fact that older weatherboard walls were often built without a drained cavity, so bringing the wall up to a current-code system forms part of the work.

Why is recladding so expensive?

Recladding is full exterior building work, not a cosmetic job. It needs a building consent, architectural plans, scaffolding around the whole house, and often structural repairs once the old cladding is removed. Those elements together, on top of the cladding itself, are what push the total into six figures.

Do I need building consent to reclad my house?

In most cases yes. A full reclad is building work that requires an Auckland Council building consent, plans and inspections. Only minor like-for-like repairs may be exempt. That is why architectural and consent fees belong in any realistic recladding budget. Confirm your own pathway with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner.

What is included in leaky home repair costs?

On most Auckland jobs the leaky-home repair is the reclad. The per-square-metre rate covers removing the failed cladding and wrap, installing a drained and vented cavity, new flashings at every junction, and the new cladding. Structural framing replacement, internal repairs and window replacement sit outside that rate because nobody can price them until the cladding is off.

Can I still make a Weathertight Homes claim?

No. MBIE confirms the deadline to bring a claim to the Weathertight Homes Resolution Service expired on 31 December 2021, and no new claims can be lodged. If you think you have a legal position on a leaky home, that is a question for a property lawyer rather than a builder.

Does the estimate include GST?

Our calculator gives an indicative figure to help you plan. Always confirm whether a quote is GST-inclusive or exclusive when you receive a formal, measured quote, so you are comparing like with like.

How long does a recladding project take?

Design and consent come first and have their own timeline. Once on site, a straightforward single-storey reclad often runs several weeks, while a larger home or one needing significant structural repair takes longer. Your project manager gives you a realistic programme once the scope is confirmed after removal, which is the first point at which a date is meaningful.

Can I live in my house during a reclad?

Usually yes. The work happens on the outside of your walls, so the kitchen and bathroom keep running. You live with scaffolding, reduced light through the wrap, daytime noise, and some rooms being cooler while their wall is open. It gets harder if windows are being replaced or internal linings have to come off, so we sequence that room by room.

Should I reroof at the same time as recladding?

If the roof is near the end of its life, it is worth pricing both together. The scaffolding is already up and the site is already set up, so combining them avoids paying to mobilise twice. If the roof has years left in it, there is no benefit in bringing the spend forward.

Further Resources for your recladding project

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

Q Mastercard 18 month interest free finance option for Superior Renovations recladding projects

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

Kitchen Renovation

Kitchen Renovation Cost Calculator Tool (NZ)

August 3, 20260

black cabinetry kitchen island with black granite sink and quartz benchtop

Planning Your Kitchen Renovation in Auckland

If you’re thinking about renovating your kitchen in Auckland, the first question is almost always the same: what’s it going to cost? At Superior Renovations, we know that every home is different, and so is every budget. This guide breaks down kitchen renovation costs in NZ, with a specific focus on Auckland, so you can plan with a clear head rather than an optimistic guess.

We’ll cover the stages of a full renovation, the hidden costs that catch people out, and what the numbers actually look like at different price points. We’ve also included our Kitchen Cost Calculator NZ so you can run your own numbers.

Get started with the calculator

Free cost calculator

How much will your kitchen renovation cost?

Get an instant Auckland price range for your project — no details required to see it.

Open the Kitchen Cost Calculator →

Takes less than 60 seconds, results sent straight to your inbox.

Open Kitchen Renovation Cost Calculator

What Goes Into a Full Kitchen Renovation?

A full kitchen renovation isn’t just swapping out cabinets. It’s a multi-stage process, and each stage affects your budget. Whether you’re in Ponsonby or Papakura, here’s what a complete kitchen overhaul actually involves.

Think of it like a puzzle: every piece has to fit together properly or the whole thing suffers. Based on our experience at Superior Renovations and guidance from Auckland Council, here’s what you’re looking at, and how each stage affects your overall cost.

- Planning and Design: This is where your vision becomes a workable plan. You’ll work with a designer, like our Design Manager Dorothy Li, to map out the layout, workflow, and aesthetic. A 3D render helps you see the space before anything is ordered. Expect $2,000–$5,000 for professional design services in Auckland, depending on complexity. As Dorothy puts it: a well-planned kitchen saves time, money, and stress during the build. For layout and finish starting points, browse our gallery of kitchen design inspiration.

- Demolition and Removal: Old cabinets, benchtops, and appliances come out. In older Auckland homes, you’ll sometimes find surprises, outdated wiring being the most common. Demolition typically costs $1,500–$3,000 depending on kitchen size and condition.
- Structural Changes: If you want open-plan, walls may need to come down. Load-bearing walls require engineering sign-off and a Building Consent, which adds $500–$2,000 in permit fees before any work starts. Check with Auckland Council early.
- Plumbing and Electrical: Moving a sink or adding new lighting is standard in a kitchen reno, but it needs licensed professionals. Budget $2,000–$6,000. EECA guidelines apply for energy-efficient installations. Cut corners here and you’ll regret it.
- Flooring and Wall Finishes: From tiles to timber, flooring sets the tone for the whole kitchen. In Auckland, quality materials like ceramic or hardwood run $50–$150 per m². Wall finishes and splashback tiles add another $1,000–$3,000. Our designer Alison Yu makes the point well: choosing durable flooring matters in a busy Auckland kitchen, you’ll thank yourself later.

Cabinets and Benchtops: Cabinets are the backbone of the kitchen, $5,000–$25,000 depending on materials (laminate through to solid timber). Benchtops in granite or engineered stone range from $2,000 to $10,000.
Appliances: A full suite, oven, fridge, dishwasher, runs $3,000–$15,000. Energy-efficient options cost more upfront but save money over time. Consumer NZ has useful guidance on reliability and value.
Finishing Touches: Lighting, handles, and the details that pull it all together. Budget $1,000–$3,000. These are the things people notice, or notice are missing.

Timeline for a full renovation: typically 6–12 weeks for a standard Auckland project, longer if structural changes are involved.

Here’s a summary of the phases and their cost ranges:

Phase	Estimated Cost	Key Considerations
Planning and Design	$2,000–$5,000	Work with a designer for a layout that actually works
Demolition	$1,500–$3,000	Watch for hidden issues in older homes
Structural Changes	$3,000–$10,000	May require Building Consent
Plumbing/Electrical	$2,000–$6,000	Licensed professionals only
Flooring/Walls	$2,000–$6,000	Choose durable, easy-to-clean materials
Cabinets/Benchtops	$7,000–$35,000	Balance quality and budget
Appliances	$3,000–$15,000	Factor in energy efficiency
Finishing Touches	$1,000–$3,000	The details that make it look finished

Our Kitchen Cost Calculator lets you model these costs for your specific project in under a minute.

Get started

Takes less than 60 seconds, results sent straight to your inbox.

Open Kitchen Renovation Cost Calculator

Hidden Costs That Can Derail Your Kitchen Renovation Budget

You’re halfway through a kitchen renovation in your Mount Eden villa, the new island is taking shape, when the builder finds dodgy wiring behind the walls. Budget blown. If that sounds familiar, you’re not alone. Unexpected costs catch Auckland homeowners out more often than you’d think. Here’s what to watch for.

Drawing from our experience at Superior Renovations and guidance from Consumer NZ:

- Structural surprises: Knocking down a load-bearing wall can add $3,000–$10,000 for structural reinforcement, per Auckland Council. Jeff Zhang, our LBP and Site Manager, is blunt about this one: get a structural engineer’s report before anything touches a wall. Fixing a sagging ceiling costs a lot more than the report did.

- What’s behind the walls: Older homes in Grey Lynn or Remuera regularly turn up asbestos, outdated plumbing, or old wiring. These add $1,000–$5,000 once discovered. A pre-renovation inspection ($500–$1,000) is worth it. Build a 10–15% contingency into your budget, not as an afterthought, but from the start.
- Cabinet costs: Budget cabinets warp and wear. Quality options run $5,000–$25,000 depending on materials. Our designer Wendy Chen is direct about this: invest in cabinets that last. They’re the heart of the kitchen and you’ll interact with them every day.
- Appliances: A full package, induction cooktop, integrated fridge, dishwasher, can hit $3,000–$15,000, not including installation. EECA recommends energy-efficient models to offset Auckland’s rising power costs over time.

Professional fees and consents: Design fees, contractor costs, and architect fees add $2,000–$10,000. Building Consents for structural changes add $500–$2,000. Don’t try to avoid these, unpermitted work shows up on LIM reports and causes problems at sale time.

Start with a realistic plan. Our Kitchen Cost Calculator NZ factors in everything from demolition to permits, so the numbers you’re working with reflect what Auckland kitchens actually cost.

Hidden Cost	Estimated Cost (NZD)	How to Manage It
Structural Changes	$3,000–$10,000	Engineer’s report before touching walls
Hidden Issues (wiring, plumbing)	$1,000–$5,000	Pre-renovation inspection
Quality Cabinets	$5,000–$25,000	Choose durable materials
Appliances	$3,000–$15,000	Energy-efficient models reduce running costs
Professional Fees and Consents	$2,500–$12,000	Budget for consents and licensed professionals

How Much Does a Kitchen Renovation Cost in Auckland?

For a full kitchen renovation in Auckland, new cabinets, benchtops, flooring, and plumbing and electrical work, the average mid-range project costs between $28,000 and $35,000. A budget refresh starts from $15,000 to $25,000, a full mid-range kitchen with custom cabinetry and stone typically runs $30,000 to $50,000, and luxury or fully custom kitchens range from $90,000 to $138,000 and up. These are the figures published on our own renovation cost FAQ, reviewed for 2026. Here is how they break down by tier:

- Budget refresh ($15,000–$25,000): New laminate benchtops, standard cabinets, basic appliances, existing layout kept. Suitable for rental properties or straightforward refreshes on a tight budget.
- Mid-range ($28,000–$35,000): Engineered stone benchtops, custom cabinets, energy-efficient appliances. This is where most Auckland homeowners land. Our designer Cici Zuo puts it well: mid-range kitchens balance style and practicality, you get a good result without overcapitalising.

before and after open-plan kitchen renovation with black cabinetry and pendant lighting

Full mid-range with custom elements ($30,000–$50,000): Custom cabinetry throughout, stone benchtops, better appliances, and usually some layout change. Most whole-kitchen rebuilds land here rather than in the refresh band.
Luxury and fully custom ($90,000–$138,000+): Marble or specialist stone, solid timber cabinetry, integrated top-tier appliances, joinery designed around the room. Common in suburbs like Herne Bay and St Heliers.

What drives these costs? The choices you make. Vinyl flooring over hardwood saves thousands. Moving plumbing for an island adds $2,000–$5,000. Auckland Council is explicit that you are unlikely to need a building consent to remodel an existing kitchen within the same space with the sink left where it is, which is also the cheapest way to build.

Where the money goes is usually a choice, not a surprise. The most common pattern we see on Auckland kitchens is a mid-range budget with one deliberate upgrade, most often the benchtop, paid for by keeping the layout and the flooring exactly where they are.

Renovation Type	Estimated Cost (NZD)	What You Get
Budget refresh	$15,000–$25,000	Laminate benchtops, standard cabinets, basic appliances, existing layout
Mid-range	$28,000–$35,000	Engineered stone, custom cabinets, energy-efficient appliances
Full mid-range, custom	$30,000–$50,000	Custom cabinetry throughout, stone benchtops, some layout change
Luxury / fully custom	$90,000–$138,000+	Marble or specialist stone, solid timber cabinetry, integrated appliances

Get started

Takes less than 60 seconds, results sent straight to your inbox.

Open Kitchen Renovation Cost Calculator

Auckland-specific factors: High tradie demand and the cost of living push prices above other NZ regions. Older homes, Devonport villas, Grey Lynn bungalows, often need additional work for outdated wiring or plumbing. EECA recommends energy-efficient fittings to offset long-term power costs, which matter in Auckland.

How to keep costs down: Think about how you actually use your kitchen. If you cook seriously, an island might be worth it. If the kitchen is mostly for quick meals, focus on functional storage upgrades rather than premium finishes. Our designer Alison Yu puts it simply: think about your kitchen daily, that’s what should guide your budget decisions.

Want a price for your kitchen renovation?
Open the calculator →

What a Small Kitchen Renovation Costs

A small kitchen does not cost proportionally less than a large one, and that catches people out. A small kitchen renovation in Auckland starts from around $15,000 to $25,000, which is the same budget-refresh band as a larger kitchen kept simple. The reason is that a kitchen is mostly fixed costs: the same trades attend, the same appliances go in, the same plumbing and electrical work is done, and the same design and project-management time is spent whether there are eight cabinets or eighteen.

What genuinely scales with size is cabinetry and benchtop area. On a compact galley or L-shaped kitchen that is a smaller share of the total than most people assume, so the honest advice on a small kitchen is to spend the saving on the things you touch every day, the drawer runners, the tapware, the benchtop, rather than assuming the whole job will come in cheap.

If your kitchen is genuinely tight, layout does more for you than budget. Our guide to design ideas for small kitchens and our kitchen planning measurements reference cover the clearances that make a small space work.

How Much Do Kitchen Designers Charge in NZ?

Professional kitchen design in Auckland typically runs $2,000 to $5,000, depending on complexity and how much documentation the build needs. That normally buys a measured survey, a layout worked through in plan, cabinetry and appliance specification, finishes selection, a 3D render so you can see it before anything is ordered, and drawings the installer can build from.

Charging models vary. Some designers work to a fixed fee for a defined package, some charge hourly, and some charge a percentage of the project value. The one to ask about directly is whether the fee is credited back if you proceed with the same company for the build, because that changes the real number considerably.

At Superior Renovations the design sits in our own design department rather than being contracted out, and the designer who draws your kitchen stays involved through the build. Practically, that means the person who chose the cabinetry is the person answering the question when a site measurement comes back 15mm off. You can see the range of work in our Auckland design studio.

Do You Need a Building Consent for a Kitchen Renovation?

Usually not. Auckland Council states you are unlikely to require a building consent to remodel an existing kitchen within the same space, leaving the kitchen sink in the same position. Swapping cabinets, benchtops, flooring and appliances in a like-for-like layout is normally exempt work.

Consent enters the picture when the job stops being a swap: removing a load-bearing wall to open the kitchen to the living area, adding a new sanitary fixture or moving drainage rather than reconnecting an existing one, or altering the structure of the house. Those are the changes that also carry the biggest cost, which is why the consent question and the budget question tend to arrive together.

Treat that as general guidance rather than a ruling on your own kitchen. Confirm your specific pathway with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner before you commit to a layout change, and be aware that any restricted building work has to be carried out or supervised by an LBP.

Factors That Drive Kitchen Renovation Costs in NZ

Two kitchens in Auckland can have wildly different price tags. Here’s what actually drives the difference.

Think of your kitchen renovation like ordering coffee in Ponsonby, a flat white or a double oat milk latte with all the trimmings. Every choice adds up. Here’s what matters most:

- Kitchen size and layout: A small 8m² kitchen in Papakura sits at the bottom of the refresh band. A 20m² open-plan kitchen in St Heliers is a mid-range project or beyond. Relocating a sink or adding an island adds $2,000–$5,000 in plumbing and electrical work. Dorothy Li’s advice: stick to your existing layout wherever possible. It’s the single most effective way to control cost.

- Materials: Laminate benchtops cost $1,000–$3,000. Quartz or granite runs $5,000–$10,000. Vinyl flooring sits at $50–$80/m², hardwood or tiles at $100–$150. EECA recommends durable, energy-efficient materials, they cost more upfront and less over time.
- Appliances: A basic package costs around $3,000. High-end smart appliances can push that to $15,000. Our designer Wendy Chen’s view: choose appliances that suit how you cook, not how you want to cook. Check Consumer NZ for reliability data before you commit.
- Structural changes: Load-bearing wall removal costs $3,000–$10,000 plus permits at $500–$2,000, per Auckland Council. Skip the consents and you’ll face problems at sale time.
- Labour and professional fees: Auckland tradies are busy and charge accordingly. Expect $2,000–$10,000 for skilled contractors, designers, and project management.
- What’s behind the walls: Older Auckland homes regularly turn up plumbing or wiring that needs replacing. A pre-renovation inspection ($500) is cheap insurance against finding out mid-build.

How to prioritise: If you host regularly, invest in the island. If you’re a low-key cook, focus on durable basics and smart storage. Our Kitchen Cost Calculator NZ lets you adjust these variables and see how they affect the total in real time.

Factor	Estimated Cost Impact (NZD)	How to Manage It
Kitchen Size and Layout	$2,000–$10,000	Keep existing layout to save on plumbing and electrical
Materials (Benchtops and Flooring)	$2,000–$15,000	Mid-range materials offer the best durability-to-cost ratio
Appliances	$3,000–$15,000	Energy-efficient models reduce running costs
Structural Changes	$3,000–$10,000	Structural engineer’s report before any wall comes down
Labour and Professional Fees	$2,000–$10,000	Licensed professionals avoid rework costs
Hidden Issues	$1,000–$5,000	15% contingency from the start

Custom Cabinetry vs Flat-Pack: What the Difference Actually Costs

Cabinetry is the single largest line in almost every kitchen quote, so it is the line where the price gap between two quotes usually opens up. Understanding the three options is the fastest way to work out why.

Flat-pack uses standard carcass sizes off a shelf. It is the cheapest route and it is genuinely fine in a rectangular room with no obstacles. The cost lands where the room stops cooperating: a chimney breast, a window in the wrong place, a wall that is 40mm out of square over three metres, and you end up with filler panels doing the work that cabinetry should be doing.

Modular with modifications sits in the middle. Standard boxes, non-standard doors, fronts and fillers made to suit. Most mid-range Auckland kitchens are built this way and the result is good.

Fully custom means every cabinet is made to the millimetre for your room. You pay for it in the cabinetry line, and you get it back in usable space: drawers that run the full width instead of stopping short, a pantry that fills its recess, a run that finishes flush against the wall rather than with a 60mm filler.

Where Our Cabinetry Is Made

This is one of the few parts of a kitchen quote where it is worth asking who actually builds it. Ours is made in-house. In January 2023 Little Giant Interiors moved into a 700m² factory in Rosedale on the North Shore, more than four times the 150m² Henderson unit it replaced, sitting alongside the group’s head office.

The floor runs a Format-4 CNC machining centre for cutting and drilling panels repeatably, a Homag edgebander applying laser edge banding, and a Micronair extraction system pulling dust away at the source. The reason that matters to your budget is not the machinery itself, it is that custom sizing stops being an expensive exception when the factory is set up to cut to a measurement rather than to a catalogue. If a cabinet has to be 812mm wide, it is 812mm wide.

It also removes a handover. When the cabinetmaker, the designer and the project manager are the same organisation, a site measurement that comes back different does not turn into a three-week negotiation between suppliers. For an idea of what that looks like finished, see our kitchen designs and styles and the kitchen design gallery.

💡 Quick tip: If the cabinetry carcasses are sound and only the fronts are dated, replacing doors and drawer fronts is a fraction of a full rebuild. Our guide to the cost of replacing kitchen cupboard doors covers when that is the smarter call.

About Our Kitchen Cost Calculator

Planning a kitchen renovation in Auckland without a clear cost picture is genuinely difficult. How do you know if you’re budgeting enough for that new benchtop, or about to be caught out by plumbing costs? That’s what our Kitchen Cost Calculator NZ is for. Built specifically for Kiwi homeowners, it gives you a personalised estimate in under a minute.

We built it because renovation costs in Auckland are often opaque. You shouldn’t have to commit to a project without a realistic idea of what it’ll cost. The calculator factors in local labour rates, material costs, and your own preferences, kitchen size, benchtop material, whether you’re making structural changes. The result is a cost breakdown based on what Auckland kitchens actually cost, with a 10–15% variance to reflect the unexpected.

Why use it?

Estimate total costs across all stages, labour, materials, design.
See how specific choices (moving plumbing, premium appliances) affect the budget.
Account for contingencies, particularly relevant in older Auckland homes.

As Dorothy Li, our Design Manager, puts it: the calculator is a roadmap rather than a quote, and it shows you where the money goes before you commit to anything.

How accurate is it? It uses average costs from our 10+ years of Auckland kitchen renovations, cross-referenced with data from Auckland Council. It assumes $5,000–$25,000 for cabinets and $2,000–$10,000 for benchtops, depending on materials. It won’t replace a detailed quote from our team, but it’s the right starting point.

What it doesn’t cover: Appliances (these vary too much) and partial renovations.

Real example: Tom, a homeowner in Mt Roskill, used the calculator for a 12m² kitchen with engineered stone benchtops and no structural changes. The result was a $24,000 estimate, which helped him prioritise custom cabinets over an island he didn’t really need.

Component	Estimated Cost Range	Notes
Demolition	$1,500–$3,000	Depends on kitchen size and condition
Cabinets	$5,000–$25,000	Laminate through to solid timber
Benchtops	$2,000–$10,000	Laminate, quartz, or granite
Flooring	$2,000–$6,000	Vinyl, tiles, or hardwood
Plumbing/Electrical	$2,000–$6,000	Higher if relocating fixtures
Permits and Fees	$500–$2,000	Required for structural changes

Superior Renovations has been working on Auckland kitchens for over a decade. The calculator is a free tool that came directly from client feedback, people wanted to understand the numbers before committing to a conversation. It’s a good place to start.

Ready to Get Started?

A kitchen renovation is one of the highest-return things you can do to a home, both in terms of daily liveability and long-term value. Whether you’re hosting in Botany or cooking quick weeknight meals in Mt Eden, the kitchen is where your household actually runs. This guide has given you the framework: what’s involved, what it costs, and what drives the variables. Now it’s time to run your numbers.

Our Kitchen Cost Calculator is the first step, a personalised estimate based on Auckland’s actual market, delivered to your inbox in under a minute. After that, the team that designs and builds Auckland kitchens end to end is here to talk through the detail, from the first layout to the final handle.

Get started

Takes less than 60 seconds, results sent straight to your inbox.

Open Kitchen Renovation Cost Calculator

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ Run your numbers through the kitchen renovation cost calculator
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Further Resources for your kitchen renovation

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland
Kitchen renovation cost in Auckland – the full cost guide
How long a kitchen renovation takes

Need more information?

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

Q Mastercard 18 month interest free finance option for Superior Renovations kitchen renovations

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

Please note: Whilst all information is considered to be true and correct at the date of publication, changes in circumstances after the time of publication may impact on the accuracy of the information. The information may change without notice and Superior Renovations is not in any way liable for the accuracy of any information printed and stored or in any way interpreted and used by a user.

How much does a kitchen renovation cost in Auckland?

A mid-range kitchen renovation in Auckland averages $28,000 to $35,000. A budget refresh that keeps the existing layout starts from $15,000 to $25,000, a full mid-range kitchen with custom cabinetry and stone runs $30,000 to $50,000, and luxury or fully custom kitchens range from $90,000 to $138,000 and up. Use our Kitchen Cost Calculator NZ for a figure based on your own project.

How much does a small kitchen renovation cost?

A small kitchen renovation in Auckland starts from around $15,000 to $25,000. It is not proportionally cheaper than a large kitchen, because most of the cost is fixed: the same trades attend, the same appliances go in, and the same design and project-management time is spent. Only the cabinetry and benchtop area scale down with the room.

How much do kitchen designers charge in NZ?

Professional kitchen design in Auckland typically runs $2,000 to $5,000 depending on complexity. That usually covers a measured survey, the layout, cabinetry and appliance specification, finishes selection, a 3D render and drawings the installer can build from. Ask whether the design fee is credited back if you proceed with the same company for the build, because that changes the real cost.

Do I need a building consent for a kitchen renovation?

Usually not. Auckland Council states you are unlikely to require a building consent to remodel an existing kitchen within the same space with the sink left in the same position. Consent is needed once you remove a load-bearing wall, add a new sanitary fixture or alter drainage or structure. Confirm your own pathway with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner.

What are the biggest cost drivers in a kitchen renovation?

Kitchen size, cabinetry type, benchtop material, appliances, and whether the layout moves. Relocating a sink or adding an island adds $2,000 to $5,000 in plumbing and electrical work alone. Hidden issues such as outdated wiring or old plumbing can add $1,000 to $5,000, so build a 10 to 15 percent contingency into your budget from the start.

Is custom cabinetry worth the extra cost over flat-pack?

It depends on the room. Flat-pack works well in a rectangular kitchen with no obstacles. Once there is a chimney breast, an awkward window or walls that are out of square, standard carcasses need filler panels and you lose usable space. Custom cabinetry is made to the millimetre for the room, so drawers run full width and runs finish flush. That is what you are paying for.

Can I just replace the kitchen cupboard doors?

Yes, if the carcasses are structurally sound and the layout still works. Replacing doors and drawer fronts costs a fraction of a full rebuild and is often the right call on a kitchen that is dated rather than failing. It is not the answer if the layout is the problem, because new fronts do not fix a bad workflow.

How long does a kitchen renovation take?

A standard Auckland kitchen renovation takes 6 to 12 weeks from start to finish, including design and cabinetry lead time. The on-site portion is shorter than that. Structural changes, consent or fully custom joinery extend the timeline. Cabinetry lead time is usually the longest single item, so it is worth confirming early.

Can I live at home during a kitchen renovation?

Most people do. The kitchen itself is out of action for the on-site period, so plan a temporary setup: a bench with the kettle, microwave and fridge somewhere else in the house, and a realistic view of how many takeaways that means. Water and power to the rest of the house stay on except for short scheduled disconnections.

How can I keep kitchen renovation costs down without cutting quality?

Keep the layout. Moving the sink, hob or drainage is the single most expensive decision in a kitchen, and it also triggers the consent question. After that, spend on the things you touch daily, the drawer runners, tapware and benchtop, and save on the things you do not, such as internal cabinet finishes and specialty appliances you will rarely use.

Is the Kitchen Cost Calculator free?

Yes, completely free. It is designed to give Auckland homeowners a realistic estimate based on local costs, and it takes under a minute. It is an indicative figure to help you plan rather than a quote, so treat a measured site visit as the next step.

House Renovation

Reroofing Cost Calculator NZ for 2026 by Superior Renovations ®

July 27, 20260

Quick answer: reroofing in Auckland costs roughly $106 per square metre for asphalt shingles and about $150 per square metre for long-run steel, supply and install. A typical home lands somewhere between $15,000 and $35,000 once you factor in roof size, pitch and removing the old roof. A steep or complex roof adds around 10%, and stripping the existing roof first adds roughly 25%.

Roof size is the main driver, so a per-square-metre figure only gets you halfway. Here’s how the full cost stacks up, plus a fast way to price your own roof.

Free tool

Get an indicative reroofing cost for your Auckland home

Open the reroofing cost calculator →

How much does a new roof cost in NZ?

We price a reroof on roof area multiplied by the material rate, then adjust for pitch and whether the old roof needs removing. These are the indicative Auckland rates our calculator uses:

Factor	Indicative rate
Asphalt shingles	from $106 per m²
Long-run steel	from $150 per m²
Steep or complex roof	around +10%
Removing the existing roof	around +25%

These are indicative figures for planning, not a fixed quote. The final number depends on your roof’s exact area, its pitch and complexity, the condition of the framing underneath, and the material you choose. If you’re leaning towards steel, our Colorsteel roofing cost guide goes deeper.

💡 Quick tip: Roof area is bigger than floor area because of the pitch and overhangs. A single-storey home with a 120m² footprint can have 150m² or more of actual roof, so don’t estimate off your floor plan alone.

Roof replacement cost by roof size in New Zealand

Because the rate is per square metre, the fastest way to sanity-check a quote is to work from your roof area. The figures below are worked straight off the two indicative rates above, on a normal pitch with the old roof left in place. They are arithmetic, not quotes, and they don’t include scaffolding on a two-storey home or any framing repairs found once the old roof is lifted.

Roof area	Asphalt shingles	Long-run steel	Steel, old roof stripped (+25%)
100m² (small home or unit)	about $10,600	about $15,000	about $18,750
150m² (typical 3-bedroom)	about $15,900	about $22,500	about $28,100
200m² (larger family home)	about $21,200	about $30,000	about $37,500
250m² (large or cut-up roof)	about $26,500	about $37,500	about $46,900

Two things move those numbers fast. A steep or multi-angle roof adds about 10% for the extra time, safety gear and offcuts. And a two-storey home needs scaffold, which is priced on the job rather than per square metre of roof. If your roof is bigger than you think, that’s normal: pitch and eaves overhangs mean roof area routinely runs 20% to 30% above floor area.

What does it cost to reroof a typical home?

Say you’ve got a standard single-storey Auckland home with roughly 150 square metres of roof, going with long-run steel on a normal pitch. That’s about $22,500 for the new roof. If the existing roof needs stripping first, add around 25% and you’re near $28,000. Choose asphalt shingles instead and the base drops to about $15,900.

A steep or cut-up roof with lots of angles pushes it higher again. Enter your roof size, material and pitch into the reroofing cost calculator and it works out your figure in seconds – handy before you start ringing around for quotes.

What a new roof price should include (and what sits outside it)

Roofing quotes are notoriously hard to compare because two companies can price very different scopes. Before you weigh one against another, check what each one has actually allowed for.

Normally inside the price:

Removing and disposing of the old roof, where a strip is part of the job.
New roofing underlay, flashings, ridge and barge capping.
Fixings suited to your site, which matters near the coast.
Access and safety for a single-storey roof, plus site clean-up.

Usually priced separately, or once the roof is off:

Scaffolding on a two-storey or steep roof.
Repairs to battens, purlins or framing that only show up on the strip.
New spouting and downpipes, if the existing ones are past it.
Skylights, solar brackets, or moving a flue or aerial.
Asbestos testing and licensed removal on older roofing. WorkSafe notes that asbestos cement was often used in roof sheeting and ridge capping, and that the only way to confirm it is to test a sample, so budget for testing on any pre-1990 roof.

💡 Quick tip: Ask every roofer to price the strip and the reroof as separate lines. It’s the single easiest way to see who has allowed for disposal and who hasn’t.

Long-run steel vs asphalt shingles vs tiles

The two most common reroofing choices in Auckland sit at different price points and suit different homes.

Long-run steel

Long-run steel (including Colorsteel) is the Auckland workhorse – durable, quick to install on straightforward roofs, and well suited to our wind and rain. It’s the higher of the two rates but a long-life option.

Asphalt shingles

Shingles come in lower per square metre and give a different look, often chosen for character homes or steeper roofs where they sit well. They’re a solid mid-range option worth pricing alongside steel.

Concrete and pressed-metal tiles

Plenty of 1970s and 1980s Auckland homes still carry concrete tiles or the pressed-metal, stone-chip tiles of that era. Both can be replaced like for like, and both change the maths if you switch material: going from a light metal roof to heavy concrete tiles adds load the existing framing may not have been designed for, which pulls the job into consent territory. That’s covered below, and it’s worth settling before you fall in love with a different profile.

Signs it’s time to replace the roof rather than repair it

A patch is the right answer more often than roofers admit. These are the ones where a full replacement usually wins:

You’ve paid for the same leak twice. Repeat repairs in the same area usually mean the substrate or the flashing detail is the problem, not the hole you keep patching.
Rust at the laps and fixings, not just surface staining. Corrosion working out from the fixing lines is a sheet-life issue.
Widespread chip loss on pressed-metal tiles, where the bitumen is exposed and going chalky.
Sagging lines or soft spots underfoot, which point at the framing rather than the cladding.
Age past the Building Code durability point. Roof cladding is expected to last at least 15 years; well beyond that, a reroof is maintenance rather than an upgrade.
You’re about to spend money on what’s underneath. New insulation, a new kitchen ceiling or a full interior repaint all argue for sorting the roof first.

Do you need a building consent to replace a roof?

Often not, but it hinges on whether the new roof is comparable to the old one. Schedule 1 of the Building Act exempts replacement of a component with a comparable component in the same position. MBIE’s guidance uses roofing as its worked example: replacing 20-year-old profiled metal roof cladding with comparable profiled metal roofing sits inside the exemption.

Where it tips the other way:

Changing to a heavier material. MBIE’s counter-example is corrugated iron swapped for concrete tiles, where the added load is likely to affect the building’s structural behaviour. That needs consent.
Structural work. Substantial replacement of components contributing to structural behaviour or fire safety is outside the exemption.
A durability or weathertightness failure. The exemption doesn’t cover replacing something that failed to meet the Building Code, including external moisture requirements.

Consenting and Restricted Building Work calls belong with your council or a Licensed Building Practitioner, not a blog. Auckland Council is the consenting authority here, and we confirm the pathway with them as part of the project so you’re not guessing.

Should you reroof, or reroof and reclad together?

If your home is due for both, doing them together can save on scaffolding and disruption, since the same access serves both jobs. It’s common on older homes where the roof and cladding have aged at the same rate. If that’s you, it’s worth reading our Auckland home renovation guide to plan the sequence, and the BRANZ resources on roofing and weathertightness are a good technical reference.

On the cost side, our recladding cost guide sets out what the cladding half runs to, and you can see how we reclad and reroof in the same programme rather than paying for access twice.

What drives your reroofing cost

Roof area – the biggest factor, and larger than your floor area.
Material – long-run steel sits above asphalt shingles per square metre.
Pitch and complexity – steep, multi-angle roofs take longer and cost more.
Removing the old roof – stripping and disposing of the existing roof adds to the total.
Access – scaffold on a two-storey home, or a tight site with no truck access.
Underlying repairs – damaged battens, purlins or framing found during the strip.

A new roof protects everything under it, so it’s worth getting right. Start with the reroofing cost calculator for an instant estimate, see local context in our reroofing costs in Auckland guide, then request a free feasibility report for a measured quote from the Superior Renovations team.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ Price your reroof with the reroofing cost calculator
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Free tool

Price your reroof in under a minute

Open the reroofing cost calculator →

How much does it cost to reroof a house in NZ?

In Auckland, reroofing runs from about $106 per square metre for asphalt shingles and about $150 per square metre for long-run steel, supply and install. A typical home totals between $15,000 and $35,000 depending on roof size, pitch, and whether the old roof is removed first. A steep roof adds around 10% and removal adds around 25%.

How much does a new roof cost in Auckland?

A standard single-storey Auckland home with around 150 square metres of roof in long-run steel is roughly $22,500 on a normal pitch, or near $28,000 if the old roof needs removing first. Asphalt shingles on the same roof come in around $15,900. Our calculator gives you a figure based on your actual roof.

What does a new roof cost for a 150m2 house?

Worked off our indicative rates, a 150 square metre roof on a normal pitch is about $15,900 in asphalt shingles or about $22,500 in long-run steel, before removing the old roof. Add roughly 25% for a strip and disposal, which takes the steel option to about $28,100. Scaffolding on a two-storey home and any framing repairs found during the strip are priced separately.

Is long-run steel or asphalt shingle cheaper?

Asphalt shingles are lower per square metre than long-run steel. Steel costs more but is durable, quick to install on straightforward roofs, and well suited to Auckland conditions. Both are worth pricing so you can weigh cost against look and longevity.

Why does removing the old roof cost extra?

Stripping the existing roof means labour to remove it, disposal of the old material, and time to inspect and repair any damaged battens or framing underneath before the new roof goes on. In our calculator that adds around 25% to the base cost.

Does a steep roof cost more to replace?

Yes. Steep and complex roofs with multiple angles take longer, need more safety measures, and use more material for the same footprint. Our calculator adds around 10% for a steep or complex roof compared with a flat or normal pitch.

How long does a reroof take?

A straightforward single-storey reroof is often done in a few days to a week, weather permitting. A larger or steeper roof, or one needing framing repairs after the strip, takes longer. Your project manager gives you a realistic timeline before work starts.

Do I need consent to reroof my house?

Replacing roof cladding with a comparable product in the same position is exempt under Schedule 1 of the Building Act, and MBIE uses profiled metal replaced with profiled metal as its example. Consent is needed if you change to a heavier material such as concrete tiles, if the work affects structural behaviour, or if the existing roof failed the Building Code for durability or external moisture. Auckland Council confirms the pathway, and a Licensed Building Practitioner should make the call on any Restricted Building Work.

How do I know whether to repair or replace my roof?

Repeat leaks in the same spot, rust spreading from the laps and fixings, widespread chip loss on pressed-metal tiles, or sagging and soft spots underfoot all point at replacement rather than another patch. Roof cladding is expected to last at least 15 years under the Building Code, so well past that a reroof is simply maintenance catching up.

Is asbestos a risk when we strip the old roof?

It can be on older roofs. WorkSafe notes asbestos cement was often used in roof sheeting and ridge capping, and that the only way to confirm asbestos is to test a sample. On any pre-1990 roof, allow for testing before the strip, and licensed removal if it comes back positive. It is not a DIY job.

Further Resources for your reroofing project

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

18 months 0 percent interest long term finance badge

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

House Renovation

Double Glazing Cost Calculator NZ — 2026 Auckland Pricing | Superior Renovations

July 13, 20260

Quick answer: in Auckland, double glazing runs from about $675 for a small window to roughly $2,700 for a large one, with sliding doors and bi-folds costing more. A typical three-bedroom home usually lands somewhere between $20,000 and $35,000 once you add up every window and door. What you actually pay comes down to how many openings you have, their size, the frame material, and whether you retrofit the existing frames or replace them outright.

Getting a real number used to mean waiting days for someone to visit and measure up. You can get an indicative figure for your own home right now, before anyone sets foot on your section.

Free tool

Get an instant double glazing estimate for your Auckland home

Open the double glazing cost calculator →

How much does double glazing cost in NZ?

Most guides give you one big vague range and leave it there. We price double glazing the way we actually quote it in Auckland: by the opening. Every window and door is measured, priced, and added up. Here are the indicative Auckland rates our calculator uses, so you can see where the money goes.

Element	Indicative Auckland cost
Small window	from $673 each
Medium window	from $1,683 each
Large window	from $2,693 each
Bi-fold window or door	from $1,286 each
Sliding door	from $6,831 each
Skylight	from $2,435 each
Additional glazing area	from $935 per m²

These are indicative supply-and-install figures for Auckland, and they’re the exact rates behind the calculator above. They give you a genuine ballpark, not a fixed quote – the final number depends on access, frame condition, glass spec and the details of your home.

💡 Quick tip: Count your openings before you do anything else. Walk the house and tally small, medium and large windows, plus sliding doors and skylights. That list is all you need to get a realistic estimate from the calculator in under a minute.

Double glazing cost for a typical 3-bedroom Auckland home

“How much to double glaze a whole house?” is the question we hear most. It ranks well as a search too, so let’s answer it properly with a worked example rather than a hand-wave.

Take a fairly standard three-bedroom Auckland home – think a weatherboard place in Mt Eden or a brick-and-tile in Howick. A realistic mix might be eight medium windows, two large windows, two small windows and one sliding door onto the deck. Run that through the rates above and you’re looking at roughly $27,000 to $30,000. Add bi-folds or a couple of skylights and it climbs; a smaller two-bedroom unit with fewer openings can come in nearer $15,000.

That’s why a per-opening estimate beats a single headline number. Two “three-bedroom homes” can differ by $15,000 purely on how much glass they have. Plug your own count into the double glazing cost calculator and you’ll get a figure built on your actual windows, not a national average.

Retrofit double glazing vs full window replacement

There are two ways to get double glazing into an existing home, and they sit at different price points.

Retrofit double glazing

Retrofit keeps your existing frames and swaps the single pane for a double-glazed unit. On sound timber joinery – common in older Grey Lynn and Ponsonby villas – it’s the more affordable route because you’re not paying for new frames or making good the surrounding wall. The trade-off is that the frame itself still isn’t thermally broken, so you get most of the benefit but not quite all of it. We cover the detail in our guide to retrofit double glazing in Auckland.

Full window replacement

Full replacement means new joinery and new double-glazed units together. It costs more per opening, but you get modern seals, better airtightness and the option of thermally broken aluminium or uPVC. If your existing frames are rotten, painted shut, or aluminium from the 70s and 80s, replacement is usually the sensible call rather than throwing new glass into a failing frame. If you’re still weighing it up, our explainer on single vs double glazing is a good starting point.

How frame material changes the price

The glass is only half the story. The frame you choose shifts both the price and the performance.

Aluminium is the Auckland default – durable, slim, and the most common choice. Standard aluminium is the baseline for pricing.
Thermally broken aluminium adds an insulating barrier through the frame to cut heat loss and condensation. It’s a step up in price and a noticeable step up in performance.
uPVC insulates well and often sits between standard and thermally broken aluminium on cost. It’s grown popular for its warmth and low maintenance.
Timber suits villas and character homes where the look matters. It’s typically the premium option and needs ongoing upkeep.

For most Auckland renovations, thermally broken aluminium or uPVC is the sweet spot between cost and comfort. Whatever you lean towards, the calculator gives you the estimate; we confirm the frame and glass spec with you during your free consultation.

What actually drives your double glazing cost

Beyond the count of windows, a handful of things move the final number:

Access. A single-storey home on a flat section is quick. Second-storey windows, tight side access, or scaffolding requirements add labour.
Frame condition. Rotten timber or damaged reveals need repair before new joinery goes in.
Glass specification. Low-E coatings, argon fill, acoustic glass for a main-road property in Epsom or Remuera – each lifts the unit price.
Openings vs fixed panes. A window that opens costs more than a fixed pane of the same size.
Making good. Full replacement often means new architraves, plastering and paint around each opening.

Is there a double glazing subsidy in NZ?

Plenty of homeowners search for this hoping for a grant, so here’s the honest answer. New Zealand’s main home-energy subsidy, the Warmer Kiwi Homes programme, covers ceiling and underfloor insulation and efficient heating – it does not fund double glazing. There’s no dedicated national grant for windows.

That doesn’t mean glazing isn’t worth it. Windows are a major source of heat loss, and double glazing works alongside insulation to keep a home warmer and drier. If you’re improving the whole envelope, it’s worth reading our guide to insulating your home so the spend is sequenced sensibly. For the current build requirements around glazing performance, the Building Performance (MBIE) H1 energy-efficiency provisions are the authority.

Get your number, then get it confirmed

Double glazing is one of the better renovation investments in an Auckland home – warmer rooms, less condensation, and quieter living. The smart first step is knowing roughly what it costs for your house, not someone else’s.

Start with the double glazing cost calculator for an instant estimate, explore the wider picture in our Auckland home renovation guide, then request a free feasibility report when you’re ready for a firm, measured quote from the Superior Renovations team.

Free tool

Price your double glazing in under a minute

Open the double glazing cost calculator →

How much does double glazing cost in NZ?

In Auckland, double glazing is roughly $673 for a small window, $1,683 for a medium window and $2,693 for a large one, supply and install. Sliding doors are around $6,831 and skylights about $2,435. A whole three-bedroom home usually totals between $20,000 and $35,000 depending on how many openings it has and the frame material chosen.

How much does it cost to double glaze a 3-bedroom house?

A typical three-bedroom Auckland home with around a dozen windows and a sliding door usually lands between $20,000 and $35,000. The exact figure depends on window count and size, frame material, and whether you retrofit or fully replace the joinery. Our calculator gives you a figure based on your actual openings.

Is retrofit double glazing cheaper than full window replacement?

Yes. Retrofitting keeps your existing frames and only swaps the glass, so it avoids the cost of new joinery and making good the surrounding wall. It suits sound timber frames. Full replacement costs more per opening but gives you new frames, better seals and the option of thermally broken aluminium or uPVC.

Is there a double glazing subsidy in New Zealand?

No. The Warmer Kiwi Homes programme funds insulation and efficient heating, not double glazing, and there is no dedicated national grant for windows. Double glazing still pays off in comfort and reduced condensation, and works best alongside good insulation.

What is the best frame material for double glazing in Auckland?

Aluminium is the most common and the pricing baseline. Thermally broken aluminium and uPVC both insulate better and sit higher on cost, and are the sweet spot for most renovations. Timber suits villas and character homes but is usually the premium option with more upkeep.

Does double glazing reduce condensation?

Yes. By keeping the inner pane closer to room temperature, double glazing dramatically cuts the condensation that forms on cold single-glazed windows. It works best combined with good insulation and ventilation to manage moisture across the whole home.

How long does it take to double glaze a house?

A retrofit on a standard home is often done in a few days. Full window replacement across a whole house takes longer once you allow for new joinery, making good and painting. Your project manager gives you a realistic timeline before work starts.

Do I need building consent for double glazing?

Straightforward like-for-like window replacement often does not need consent, but changes to window size, structural openings, or work on some character or heritage homes can. Always check with Auckland Council, and we help sort this as part of the project.

How much does retrofit double glazing cost?

Retrofit keeps your existing frames and swaps the single pane for a double-glazed unit, so it avoids the cost of new joinery and of making good the architraves, plaster and paint around each opening. That puts it below full replacement on the same house. The per-opening rates above and the calculator price full replacement, so treat those figures as your upper bound and expect retrofit to come in under them where the frames are sound. Our retrofit double glazing guide for Auckland homes covers which frames qualify.

How much does it cost to replace windows and frames in NZ?

Replacing the whole window rather than just the glass is what the rates above cover: about $673 for a small window, $1,683 for a medium one, $2,693 for a large one, $1,286 for a bi-fold and $6,831 for a sliding door, supply and install in Auckland. A typical three-bedroom home totals $20,000 to $35,000. Standard aluminium joinery is the Auckland baseline; thermally broken aluminium, uPVC and timber all sit above it, and second-storey openings or scaffolding add labour.

Does double glazing meet the H1 Building Code requirements?

Auckland is Climate Zone 1, the mildest of the New Zealand zones, so the window requirement is lower than for the South Island. What changed is how compliance is proven: the sixth edition of H1/AS1 took effect on 27 November 2025 and removed the Schedule Method, the old lookup table, so performance now has to be demonstrated on the numbers. The fifth edition stays valid for consent applications lodged up to 26 November 2026. Ask your supplier for the system R-value covering frame and glass together, not the glass alone, and let your designer or council confirm compliance for consented work.

How long does double glazing last?

A well-made, well-installed insulated glass unit should run 20 to 30 years before the seal degrades. You will know the seal has failed when permanent fog or moisture appears between the panes, and at that point the unit is replaced rather than resealed. Installation quality is the main variable: a rushed fit can break the seal or let moisture into the cavity within a couple of years, which is why the install matters as much as the glass specification.

House Renovation

Renovating a 1970s Brick-and-Tile Home in Auckland

July 11, 20260

Quick answer: A 1970s house renovation in Auckland usually means opening up a boxy layout, replacing tired wiring, plumbing and single-glazed aluminium joinery, and checking for asbestos before anything comes out. A full renovation of this stock typically runs $80,000 to $160,000.

Drive through Pakuranga, Manurewa, Glendowie or Henderson and you’re looking at the same house over and over: low-set brick-and-tile, aluminium windows, a tiled roof, and a floor plan that shuts the kitchen away from everyone else. Auckland built tens of thousands of these homes through the 1970s and into the 80s. They were solid for their day. Fifty years on, they’re cold, chopped up, and running on services well past their use-by date.

The good news is that these houses renovate beautifully. The brick is usually a veneer, not structure, so the inside can be reworked far more freely than people expect. The catch is what you find once the linings come off. This guide walks through what you’re actually working with, what tends to hide behind the walls, where the money goes, and the upgrades that make the biggest difference to how one of these homes lives.

Brick and Tile house

What You’re Actually Working With in a 1970s Brick-and-Tile Home

Free cost calculator

How much will your renovation cost?

Get an instant Auckland price range for your project — no details required to see it.

Try our free cost calculators →

Before you plan a single change, it helps to understand how these houses were put together. The construction is consistent enough across Auckland that most 70s and early-80s homes share the same handful of traits, and each one shapes what your renovation can and can’t do cheaply.

The Brick Is a Veneer, Not the Structure

This is the single most useful thing to know. On the vast majority of 1970s Auckland homes, the brick is a single skin sitting off a timber frame, with a cavity between the two. The frame carries the house; the brick keeps the weather out and gives it that face. It means most of your internal walls are ordinary timber partitions, and a surprising number of them aren’t load-bearing at all.

That’s why these homes suit open-plan so well. The wall boxing the kitchen off from the dining room is often just a partition you can take out, subject to a proper structural check. We’ve opened up plenty of them across Auckland where the wall looked like it was holding up the roof and turned out to be doing nothing but dividing two rooms. You still get a Licensed Building Practitioner and, where needed, an engineer to confirm it before anyone swings a hammer, but the potential is there in a way it rarely is in a solid-masonry home.

“The layout is where a 70s home changes the most. These houses were designed around separate little rooms, so people assume they’re stuck with it. Once you understand the brick is only a skin, the whole inside opens up. That’s the moment a client stops seeing a dark, dated house and starts seeing their actual home.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations

Slab-on-Grade, Aluminium Joinery and Low Ceilings

Most of this stock sits on a concrete slab-on-grade with integral footings rather than a suspended timber floor. That’s generally good news: no rotting piles, no bouncy floors, and a sound base to tile or polish. It does mean moving plumbing and drainage involves cutting the slab, which is doable but adds cost, so a layout that works with the existing drainage runs saves money.

The windows are almost always aluminium joinery that was never thermally broken, paired with single glazing. In winter these frames sweat and the rooms lose heat fast. Ceilings tend to sit around 2.4 metres, lower than the villas and bungalows a few suburbs over, which is worth remembering when you plan lighting and any raked or lifted ceiling feature.

💡 Quick tip: Before you fall in love with a new layout, get the drainage located. Keeping the kitchen sink, bathroom and laundry near the existing waste runs can save several thousand dollars in slab cutting and re-plumbing.

What’s Hiding Behind the Walls of an Older Auckland Home

Here’s the part most people underestimate. The surfaces of a 1970s home are easy to cost. It’s the services behind them, and one particular hazard, that decide whether your budget holds. On a house that hasn’t been touched in decades, assume the guts need work until proven otherwise.

Asbestos: Test First, Always

Any Auckland home built before 1 January 2000 may contain asbestos materials, and 1970s houses sit squarely in the highest-risk window. According to WorkSafe New Zealand, if there’s any doubt about a material, the law requires you to treat it as asbestos until a lab confirms otherwise. In homes of this era it commonly turns up in textured “popcorn” ceilings, vinyl floor tiles and their backing, some wall linings, and eaves and soffit sheeting.

The rule is simple and non-negotiable: don’t disturb it. Testing is a job for a competent, accredited assessor, and removal of anything significant is a job for a licensed asbestos removalist, not a general builder and definitely not a weekend of DIY. A proper renovator identifies and manages this before demolition starts, and factors testing into the plan from day one. It’s the one line in a 70s renovation you never gamble on.

Important note: Asbestos identification, handling and removal are governed by the Health and Safety at Work (Asbestos) Regulations 2016. Always have suspect materials assessed by an accredited professional before any renovation work begins, and refer removal to a licensed removalist.

Wiring, Plumbing and the Services You Can’t See

Fifty-year-old electrics are usually the next surprise. Many of these homes still run the original wiring with few or no RCDs on the switchboard, undersized for the way we use power now. A full or partial rewire is common in a whole-house renovation, and because it’s electrical work it needs a registered electrician and sign-off.

Plumbing tells a similar story. Galvanised steel supply lines from the 70s corrode from the inside, narrowing and discolouring the water, and copper of the same age is often near the end of its run. If the walls are open anyway, replacing tired pipework is far cheaper to do now than to retrofit later. The same logic applies to insulation: a 70s home typically has little to none in the walls, and while the linings are off is the one moment it’s genuinely affordable to bring it up to standard. We cover the detail in our guide to insulating your home during a renovation, including the current Building Code H1 minimums for Auckland.

None of this is glamorous, and none of it shows in the finished photos. It’s also exactly why a fixed-price quote on this kind of house should be built after a proper look at the services, not before. If you want to understand where the big-ticket items sit generally, our breakdown of renovation cost per square metre in Auckland is a useful reality check.

Where a 1970s Home Really Transforms

Once the unseen work is sorted, the changes people actually see are where a 70s brick-and-tile home earns its keep. Three moves do most of the heavy lifting.

Opening Up the Compartmentalised Layout

The defining flaw of this era is the closed floor plan: a galley kitchen walled off from a formal lounge and a separate dining room, all fighting over limited light. Removing the right partition, or two, turns that into a single connected living space where the kitchen looks out over the family and the back garden. It’s the change clients react to most.

A good example is a 40-year-old family home in Māngere we reworked into open-plan living, connecting the kitchen, dining and lounge that had been shut off from one another. It’s the same bones as thousands of South and East Auckland homes, and the same transformation is on the table for most of them. If you’re weighing this up, our open-plan wall removal guide and our overview of the real risks in structural changes are worth reading before you commit to a layout.

“With these homes I always start with how the family moves through the space, not the finishes. Take one wall out and suddenly the cook isn’t isolated, the light travels, and a house that felt small feels generous. The footprint hasn’t changed at all. The way it lives has completely.”
— Cici Zuo, Certified Designer (NZ Dip. Interior Design), Superior Renovations

Bringing the Kitchen and Bathrooms Into This Decade

The original kitchen and bathrooms in a 70s home are almost always the first things to go, and they’re where day-to-day life improves most. A new kitchen that opens to the living area, and bathrooms taken back to the studs and re-waterproofed to current standards, reset the whole feel of the house. There’s real scope here to replace a closed-off 70s kitchen with an open, modern one, and to fully gut a tired brick-and-tile bathroom back to the studs rather than tiling over old problems.

Because the slab and drainage are already there, keeping wet areas roughly where they are keeps costs sensible. Move everything and you’re cutting concrete; work with the existing runs and the budget stretches further into the finishes you’ll actually notice.

Warmth: Glazing, Insulation and Heating

A 70s home with single glazing and bare walls is cold, and Aucklanders feel it most from June through August. Retrofit double glazing into the existing aluminium frames, or replacing the joinery outright, cuts the condensation and the heat loss dramatically. Paired with wall and ceiling insulation while the linings are open, it changes the house from something you heat constantly to something that holds its warmth. Our take on whether retrofit double glazing is worth it in Auckland runs through the options and the trade-offs.

💡 Quick tip: Sequence the warmth work in the right order. Insulation and glazing go in while walls and linings are open and cheap to reach. Retrofitting either after the house is buttoned up costs far more, so decide early rather than adding it later.

What a 1970s House Renovation Costs in Auckland

Cost depends entirely on scope, condition and finish, and a slab-on-grade brick-and-tile home is more predictable than most once the services are assessed. As a starting frame, a full renovation of one of these homes typically lands between $80,000 and $160,000, with larger and two-storey homes above that. The figures below come from our live pricing and are indicative starting points; your fixed-price quote will confirm exact scope and GST.

Full home renovation cost in Auckland — indicative starting points (2026)

Starting-from figures by scope. Final cost depends on condition, layout changes and finish.

Smaller full renovation

from $80,000

Single-level home

from $140,000

Two-storey home

from $180,000

Source: Superior Renovations — FAQ (live pricing). Ranges, not fixed prices; confirm scope and GST in your quote.

The Mellons Bay full-home renovation we completed shows how the scope adds up in practice: a new kitchen and four bathrooms, double glazing throughout, a re-roof, a full rewire and a repaint, delivered end to end in around six months. Not every 70s home needs all of that, but it’s a fair picture of what “the works” involves. You can see the range of jobs on our Mellons Bay project page, and run your own numbers through our renovation cost calculators.

Scope	Indicative Auckland cost (2026)	Notes
Kitchen (mid-range)	$28,000–$35,000	Custom cabinetry and stone benchtops push toward the top and beyond
Bathroom (mid-range full)	$25,000–$35,000	Back-to-studs rebuild with new waterproofing
Full home renovation	$80,000–$160,000	Single-level from around $140,000 for the full works
Two-storey full renovation	From $180,000	Scales with floor area and access

Want a ballpark for your renovation?
See the calculators →

Do You Need Consent for a 1970s Renovation?

Cosmetic work like new kitchens, linings, flooring and painting generally doesn’t need a building consent. The moment you touch structure, though, the picture changes. Removing or altering a load-bearing wall, most plumbing and drainage changes, and adding or relocating certain electrical work are Restricted Building Work and typically require a building consent and a Licensed Building Practitioner. Consent timeframes in Auckland usually add several weeks to the front of a project.

The honest answer for any specific job is to confirm it, not guess. We handle consents in-house as part of the design-to-build process, and we’d always recommend checking your particular scope with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner before you lock in a plan. This is exactly the kind of house where taking a dated 1970s home back to the framing and rebuilding it properly pays off, because the planning is done once, up front, rather than in pieces.

How Long It Takes

A full renovation of a three-bedroom brick-and-tile home generally runs three to six months on site, with a typical three-bed, two-bathroom job around 12 to 16 weeks once design is finalised and materials are ordered. Add four to eight weeks at the front if the work needs council consent. Design, material selection and manufacturing happen before demolition, so the on-site clock is shorter than the whole project.

Is a 1970s Home Worth Renovating?

For most Auckland owners, yes. The bones are sound, the sections are often generous, and the locations, through the eastern bays, the North Shore and the south, are established and well-served. You’re improving a house you already own in a suburb you already like, usually for a good deal less than buying the equivalent renovated home down the road.

The case gets weaker only where the scope tips toward a near-rebuild, or where the section would genuinely suit something new. If you’re on that line, it’s worth pricing both paths properly before deciding. Either way, the starting point is the same: a proper look at the house, the services and the layout, so the plan is built on what’s actually there rather than what’s assumed.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ See how Auckland renovation costs break down per square metre
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to renovate a 1970s house in Auckland?

A full renovation of a 1970s brick-and-tile home in Auckland typically costs between $80,000 and $160,000, with a full single-level renovation starting from around $140,000 and two-storey homes from $180,000. A mid-range kitchen runs $28,000–$35,000 and a mid-range bathroom $25,000–$35,000. Final cost depends on condition, layout changes and finish, so these are indicative starting points rather than fixed prices. Figures are from Superior Renovations' live pricing.

Is the brick on a 1970s house structural?

On most 1970s Auckland homes the brick is a single-skin veneer sitting off a timber frame, with a cavity between. The timber frame carries the house; the brick is cladding. This is why these homes suit open-plan renovations, as many internal walls are non-load-bearing partitions that can be removed. Always confirm with a Licensed Building Practitioner, and an engineer where needed, before removing any wall.

Do 1970s houses in New Zealand have asbestos?

Any New Zealand home built before 1 January 2000 may contain asbestos, and 1970s homes are in the highest-risk period. It commonly appears in textured ceilings, vinyl floor tiles and backing, some wall linings, and eaves and soffit sheeting. Per WorkSafe, treat any suspect material as asbestos until a lab confirms otherwise, and never disturb it. Testing needs an accredited assessor and removal needs a licensed removalist.

Do I need building consent to renovate a 1970s home?

Cosmetic work such as new kitchens, flooring, linings and painting generally does not need consent. Removing load-bearing walls, most plumbing and drainage changes, and some electrical work are Restricted Building Work and usually require a building consent and a Licensed Building Practitioner. Consent typically adds several weeks in Auckland. Confirm your specific scope with Auckland Council or an LBP before finalising plans.

Can you make a 1970s house open-plan?

Usually, yes. Because the brick is a veneer and the frame carries the load, many of the internal walls dividing the kitchen, dining and living areas are non-load-bearing and can be removed to create open-plan living. It is the single biggest change you can make to this era of home. A structural check by a Licensed Building Practitioner or engineer confirms which walls can go and whether a beam is needed.

Should I rewire and re-plumb a 1970s house?

Often, yes. Fifty-year-old wiring is frequently undersized with few or no RCDs, and galvanised steel plumbing from the era corrodes internally and discolours water. When walls are already open during a renovation, replacing wiring and pipework is far cheaper than retrofitting later. Electrical work must be done by a registered electrician with sign-off. Budget for it early rather than treating it as an optional extra.

How long does it take to renovate a 1970s house?

A full renovation of a three-bedroom brick-and-tile home generally takes three to six months on site, with a typical three-bed, two-bathroom project around 12 to 16 weeks once design is finalised and materials ordered. Add four to eight weeks at the start if council consent is required. Design and manufacturing happen before demolition, so the on-site build is shorter than the whole project.

Is it better to renovate or rebuild a 1970s Auckland home?

For most owners, renovating wins. The slab and timber frame are usually sound, sections are generous, and you improve a home you already own in a suburb you like, generally for less than buying an equivalent renovated house. A rebuild only makes stronger sense when the scope approaches a full replacement or the section would better suit a new build. Price both paths before deciding.

Why are 1970s houses so cold in winter?

They were built before insulation and glazing standards existed. Walls typically have little or no insulation, and the aluminium joinery was never thermally broken and holds single glazing, so it loses heat and sweats with condensation. Adding wall and ceiling insulation while linings are open, plus retrofit or replacement double glazing, dramatically improves warmth and cuts condensation, which is a common priority in Auckland renovations of this stock.

Further Resources for your 1970s home renovation

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

finance - Superior Renovations

Want a ballpark for your renovation?
See the calculators →

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

d675d752 64e5 44ab 9af8 65752d94b8e1 - Superior Renovations

Landscaping & Outdoor

Louvre Roof NZ: Cost, Consent and Choosing a System That Lasts (Auckland 2026)

July 8, 20260

Quick answer: A louvre roof in Auckland typically runs $15,000–$35,000 for a motorised aluminium system, and here’s the catch most people miss — a pergola is consent-exempt at any size only while it stays unroofed, so the moment you add a louvre roof, the council treats it as a roofed structure with its own consent rules.

Every summer we get the same call. Someone’s deck bakes from about 11am, the outdoor table hasn’t been used since Waitangi weekend, and they’ve seen a neighbour in Howick or Torbay put in one of those adjustable-blade roofs that tilts open for sun and shuts for a southerly. They want one. What they don’t want is a $28,000 aluminium structure that either rusts near the coast or turns into a consent headache after it’s already bolted to the house.

This is the guide we wish more of them read first. Real Auckland cost bands, the consent rules that trip people up, and how to choose a system that’s still working in ten years.

What a Louvre Roof Actually Is (and How It Differs From a Pergola)

Free cost calculator

How much will a louvre roof cost?

Get an instant Auckland price range for your project — no details required to see it.

Open the Louvre Roof Calculator →

A louvre roof is a pergola with a roof that moves. Instead of open beams or fixed slats, it has aluminium blades, called louvres, that pivot on a track. Open them flat and you get full sun. Angle them and you get filtered light and airflow. Close them and, on a decent system, you stay dry through light rain because the blades seal against each other and drain the water out through the frame’s gutters.

That single moving part is what separates a louvre roof from the two things people often confuse it with.

Louvre roof vs pergola vs solid patio roof

A traditional timber or aluminium pergola is a frame — it breaks up harsh sun and looks the part, but it won’t keep rain off. A solid patio roof (polycarbonate or long-run steel) keeps everything off but also blocks the light on the days you actually want it. A louvre roof sits in the middle: you decide, blade by blade, how much sky comes through.

Structure	Keeps rain off?	Adjustable light?	Typical use
Pergola (open)	No	No	Shade, structure, planting
Louvre roof	Yes, when closed	Yes	Year-round outdoor living
Solid patio roof	Yes, always	No	Full cover, storage, shelter

Manual or motorised?

Smaller louvre roofs can be hand-cranked. Most people go motorised — a remote or a phone app, and often a rain sensor that closes the blades automatically when the first drops land. The motorised versions cost more and bring an electrical connection into the job, which matters for both budget and consent. We’ll come back to the wiring in a moment, because it’s not a DIY afternoon.

💡 Quick tip: If you’re leaning motorised, ask whether the rain sensor is standard or an add-on, and where the manual override is. Power cuts happen, and you don’t want the blades stuck open in a downpour.

What a Louvre Roof Costs in Auckland

From our own Auckland outdoor builds, a motorised aluminium louvre roof typically lands between $15,000 and $35,000 (GST inclusive), depending on the span, the blade quality, and whether it’s freestanding or fixed to the house. That’s the structure itself. The number on your final invoice usually depends on what sits under and around it.

Covered outdoor living — indicative Auckland pricing

Installed ranges (GST inclusive) from our completed outdoor projects, 2026

Motorised louvre roof$15,000–$35,000

Timber pergola$5,000–$12,000

Screening blinds$3,000–$8,000

Source: Superior Renovations — indicative installed pricing from completed Auckland outdoor projects. Ranges, not fixed quotes.

The costs a product-only quote leaves out

A louvre roof has to land on something solid. If your deck can’t carry the point loads, or you’re building over lawn, you’re adding a deck or a footings-and-slab base underneath. Then there’s the electrical run for a motorised system, and building consent fees if your structure needs one. A quote that shows only the aluminium kit is telling you half the story.

As a rough all-up guide, a designed and built covered outdoor area (base, structure, screens and finishing) is a $30,000-plus project once everything’s in, not a $15,000 one. Where it lands depends entirely on scope.

💡 Quick tip: Run your own numbers before you ring anyone. Our louvre roof and covered-outdoor cost calculator gives you a ballpark in about a minute so you walk into quotes knowing roughly where you sit.

“The louvre kit is the easy bit. What decides whether the job runs smoothly is the structure under it and the wiring — get the footings and the consent path sorted first, and the roof itself goes up in a day or two.”
— Jeff Zhang, LBP & Site Manager, Superior Renovations

Do You Need Building Consent for a Louvre Roof?

This is where the internet gets it wrong, so read this bit carefully. A lot of installer websites say “louvred pergolas are usually exempt from consent.” That’s not quite how the rules read.

Under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, a pergola is exempt from building consent with no size limit — but only while it stays unroofed. A louvre roof, by definition, is a roof. So the moment you add closing blades, your structure is no longer an exempt pergola. It gets assessed like a porch or verandah instead.

What Schedule 1 actually says

Per Building Performance (MBIE), a roofed porch or verandah is generally exempt from consent up to 20m² when it’s attached at ground or first-storey level. Between 20m² and 30m², it can still be exempt — but only when the design or construction is carried out by a Licensed Building Practitioner. Above that, or where it doesn’t meet the conditions, you’re into a full building consent.

Two things people forget: the structure still has to meet the Building Code even when it’s exempt, and Auckland Council’s site coverage and boundary (yard) rules under the Unitary Plan apply regardless of the consent exemption. A structure that’s fine under the Building Act can still breach a yard setback. Check both.

Important note: Consent thresholds and exemptions are specific to your site and change over time. Treat this as a starting point, not advice for your build — confirm your project with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner before you commit. Our sister brand covers the detail in what you can build without consent in NZ.

The 20–30m² LBP pathway is genuinely useful, and it’s one reason we handle these as a build rather than a product drop-off. A licensed builder on the job can be the difference between an exempt project and a full consent, on the exact same structure.

Choosing a System That Survives an Auckland Winter

Auckland is hard on outdoor structures. Salt-laden air off both harbours, humidity, and the odd hard-out southerly that finds anything loose. A louvre roof that looks great in a Sydney showroom photo can pit and stain within a few years in Devonport or Mission Bay if the wrong grade of aluminium and coating go in.

Aluminium grade and powder-coating

Marine-grade aluminium with a quality powder-coat finish is the baseline near the coast. Ask what warranty covers the coating specifically, not just the motor. Come and see blade finishes in person at our Wairau Valley showroom (16B Link Drive) before you settle on a colour. Stainless fixings matter too — cheaper fasteners are usually where the first rust streaks appear, long before the frame itself gives up.

Wind rating and the motor

Exposed Auckland sites, anywhere with a clear run to the water, need a system rated for the wind zone. A good motorised unit will have a wind sensor that opens the blades to let a gust pass through rather than fighting it. That’s a feature worth paying for on a headland section, not a gimmick.

Because a motorised roof needs power, the wiring is prescribed electrical work and has to be done by a registered electrician under New Zealand’s electrical safety rules — not the landscaper, not you. We build the electrical into the plan from the start so there’s a tidy, compliant supply to the motor and any integrated lighting.

“The clients who get the most out of these are the ones who think of it as another room, not a garden gadget. Get the lighting, the heating and the floor right and you’ll use it in July, not just January.”
— Eunice Qin, Designer, Superior Renovations

Planning a louvre roof?
Open the calculator →

A Louvre Roof Works Best as Part of One Outdoor-Living Build

The best outdoor rooms we’ve built weren’t a louvre roof bolted onto whatever was already there. They were designed as one job — the deck, the roof, the screening, the lighting and the power, all planned together so the proportions work and the trades don’t trip over each other.

On a Mellons Bay full-home renovation, the Kwila deck was built to make the most of the sea views, with the covered-living zone planned around how the family actually used the space. In Cockle Bay, we ran a full Kwila deck rebuild and extension alongside interior work as one managed project. That’s the difference between an add-on and a room you’ll live in.

How long it takes

A full outdoor-living build (design, any consent, base, structure and finishing) typically runs 6 to 12 weeks of on-site work, with design and consent adding lead time before the tools come out. The louvre roof itself is quick once the structure’s ready; it’s the base and the approvals that set the timeline.

If you’d rather have one team carry the whole thing, from design and consent through to deck and roof, that’s exactly how our team plans and builds an outdoor living area from deck to roof across Auckland.

💡 Quick tip: If a full renovation’s already on the cards, price the outdoor room in at the same time. Sharing scaffolding, project management and trades across one build usually beats bolting it on as a separate job a year later.

The Bottom Line on Louvre Roofs

A louvre roof is one of the best-value ways to actually use your outdoor space year-round in Auckland — if you get the structure, the durability and the consent path right. Budget realistically, choose for the coast not the showroom, and treat the roof as part of a proper build rather than a product on its own.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ Explore our outdoor living and deck build service in Auckland
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Do I need building consent for a louvre roof in NZ?

Often, yes. Under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, an unroofed pergola is exempt at any size, but a louvre roof counts as a roof — so it is assessed like a porch or verandah. That is generally exempt up to 20m² when attached at ground or first-storey level, and between 20m² and 30m² only when a Licensed Building Practitioner does the design or build. Auckland Council site coverage and yard rules also apply. Confirm your site with the council or an LBP before you start.

How much does a louvre roof cost in NZ?

A motorised aluminium louvre roof typically runs $15,000–$35,000 for the structure in Auckland, depending on span, blade quality and whether it is freestanding or attached. Once you add the base or deck it sits on, the electrical run for the motor, and any consent fees, a designed and built covered outdoor area is usually a $30,000-plus project. A hand-operated system on an existing deck sits at the lower end.

What is the difference between a pergola and a louvre roof?

A pergola is an open frame that breaks up sun but does not keep rain off. A louvre roof has pivoting aluminium blades you can open for sun, angle for filtered light, or close to stay dry in light rain. The practical upshot is that a louvre roof lets you use the space year-round, while a pergola is more of a fair-weather structure. It also changes the consent position, since a louvre roof is treated as a roofed structure.

Are motorised louvre roofs worth it?

For most people, yes. A motorised system opens and closes from a remote or phone app, and better units include a rain sensor that shuts the blades automatically. The trade-off is cost and an electrical connection that must be installed by a registered electrician. If your budget is tight and the roof is small, a manual system still does the core job of opening and closing the blades.

Do louvre roofs keep the rain out?

A quality louvre roof keeps you dry in light to moderate rain when the blades are closed, because the blades seal against each other and channel water into the frame's built-in gutters. In heavy, wind-driven Auckland rain some spray can still get in around open sides, which is where screening blinds help. Ask the supplier how the system drains and whether the gutters connect to your stormwater.

What is the best louvre roof material for Auckland's coastal weather?

Marine-grade aluminium with a quality powder-coat finish and stainless fixings is the baseline near the coast. Salt air off Auckland's harbours pits cheaper aluminium and rusts low-grade fasteners within a few years. Ask specifically what warranty covers the coating, not just the motor, and confirm the fixings are stainless. On exposed sites, also check the system is rated for your wind zone.

Can I attach a louvre roof to my house or does it have to be freestanding?

Both are common. Attaching it to the house gives a sheltered flow from indoors out and is popular off a kitchen or living room. Freestanding suits a spot further down the section or where the roofline does not work. Attaching to the dwelling can affect the consent assessment and needs proper flashing so you do not create a leak, so it is worth planning with a builder rather than improvising.

How long does it take to install a louvre roof?

The roof itself goes up in a day or two once the structure is ready. The timeline is driven by everything else — a full outdoor-living build with design, any consent, a new base or deck and finishing typically runs 6 to 12 weeks on site, plus lead time for design and consent beforehand. Installing onto an existing, suitable deck is much quicker.

Does a louvre roof add value to my Auckland home?

Usable outdoor living is a genuine selling point in Auckland, where indoor-outdoor flow is high on most buyers' lists. A well-built, consented louvre roof that extends the living space tends to help presentation and appeal. Unconsented or poorly built structures can do the opposite, since a buyer's lawyer or building inspector may flag them, so keep your paperwork in order.

Do I need an electrician for a motorised louvre roof?

Yes. Wiring a motorised louvre roof is prescribed electrical work under New Zealand's electrical safety rules and must be done by a registered electrician — not a landscaper and not the homeowner. This covers the supply to the motor and any integrated lighting or heaters. Building the electrical into the plan from the start keeps it tidy and compliant rather than an awkward add-on later.

Further Resources for your outdoor renovation

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

finance - Superior Renovations

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

freestanding bath in bathroom - Superior Renovations

House Renovation

Renovate or Rebuild? Auckland Cost & Consent Guide

July 2, 20260

Renovate or Rebuild? The Real Cost and Consent Trade-Off for Auckland Homes

Free cost calculator

How much will your renovation cost?

Get an instant Auckland price range for your project — no details required to see it.

Try our free cost calculators →

Quick answer: Whether to renovate or rebuild in Auckland comes down to totals, not rates — renovation runs $2,000–$4,500 per m² on only the areas needing work, while a rebuild pays for every square metre plus demolition, consents and a year of rent.

Right now, Auckland Council’s public register shows additions and alterations being consented every week across Grey Lynn, Herne Bay, Mt Eden, Ponsonby and Devonport — the exact suburbs where owners most often assume their only options are a rebuild or a sale. They’re not. Renovation remains the most common path for character homes in Auckland’s heritage suburbs, and in many cases it’s the only path the Unitary Plan will actually let you take.

We’ve completed more than 1,000 renovation projects across Auckland since 2018 — around $45.5 million of finished work. That dataset tells us something the generic pros-and-cons articles can’t: the per-square-metre rates for renovating and rebuilding have converged, but the total project costs haven’t. This guide walks through the real numbers, the consent rules that quietly decide the question for you, and an honest framework for when each option wins.

open-plan kitchen and living area with marble-look island bench and black tapware

What Renovating Actually Costs vs What Rebuilding Actually Costs

Here’s the number that surprises most homeowners: per square metre, the gap between renovating and building new is smaller than you’d think. The problem is that per-metre rates hide the three costs that only apply to a rebuild.

Renovation costs from our completed Auckland projects

Across our completed projects, full home renovations in Auckland run $2,000–$4,500 per square metre, with mid-range whole-house renovations landing between $80,000 and $160,000. Larger character-home renovations — the villa or bungalow taken back to the framing, re-plumbed, rewired, insulated and reconfigured — commonly land between $200,000 and $500,000 depending on scope and finish level. These are ranges from completed jobs, not quotes; every home prices differently once we’ve seen what’s behind the GIB.

The renovation advantage isn’t the rate. It’s that you don’t have to renovate all of it. A 220m² Remuera home might only need $180,000 of work concentrated in the kitchen, bathrooms and living areas — the other 120m² of sound bedrooms stays untouched. A rebuild charges you for every square metre whether it needed replacing or not.

New build costs in 2026

According to Trade Me Property’s April 2026 building cost guide, a basic new build starts around $2,500 per square metre, the average sits at $3,000–$4,500, and premium homes exceed $5,000. MoneyHub’s analysis of Stats NZ consent data puts the national average at $3,245 per square metre — and notes that external items like driveways, landscaping, earthworks and retaining can add 30–50% on top. Auckland sits at the expensive end of every one of those ranges.

The three costs only a rebuild carries

Demolition, full-footprint pricing, and somewhere to live. Demolishing a standard Auckland home costs roughly $8,000–$32,000 — and if your house went up before 2000, budget for asbestos removal on top, which can run from a few hundred dollars to $15,000 or more depending on what’s found. Then there’s accommodation: a knockdown-rebuild typically means 12+ months in a rental while you keep paying your existing mortgage. At Auckland rents, that’s comfortably tens of thousands of dollars that never touch the house itself.

Cost item	Major renovation (200m² home, ~120m² touched)	Knockdown rebuild (200m²)
Construction	$240,000–$540,000 (only the areas that need work)	$600,000–$900,000 (every square metre)
Demolition + asbestos	Not required	$8,000–$32,000+
Site works, consents, externals	Included in scope for most interior renovations	+20–30% of build cost
Accommodation during works	Often nil — many clients live in through staged work	~12 months’ rent
Realistic total	$240,000–$540,000	$780,000–$1,200,000+

💡 Quick tip: Before comparing quotes, work out how many square metres actually need work. Owners who count “the whole house” often find only 50–60% of the floor area genuinely needs touching — which changes the renovate-vs-rebuild maths completely.

timber kitchen with white overhead cabinets marble-look island and bar stool seating

Want to test your own numbers first? You can run your figures through our renovation cost calculators before you talk to anyone.

The Consent Trade-Off: Where the Council Quietly Makes the Decision for You

Cost is only half the question. In large parts of Auckland, the consent pathway decides whether rebuilding is even realistic.

Renovating: usually building consent only

Most interior renovations — kitchens, bathrooms, reconfigured layouts within the existing envelope — need a building consent from Auckland Council, and some like-for-like work doesn’t even need that. Council must process a complete building consent application within 20 working days under the Building Act, per MBIE’s Building Performance guidance. It’s paperwork, but it’s predictable paperwork.

Rebuilding: demolition consent, and in character suburbs, a much harder gate

A knockdown-rebuild needs consent to demolish, consent to build, and — here’s the part that catches people — resource consent if your home sits in a Special Character Area. Under the Auckland Unitary Plan’s D18 Special Character Areas Overlay, total demolition — or substantial demolition exceeding 30% of wall elevations and roof area — is a restricted discretionary activity requiring resource consent on sites subject to the demolition control. That control covers the entire Isthmus A area and mapped sites across the other special character areas, and where it applies, council assesses your villa’s contribution to the streetscape before deciding whether it can come down at all.

If your villa or bungalow sits inside a Special Character Area — and much of the pre-1940 housing stock in Grey Lynn, Ponsonby, Mt Eden, Herne Bay and Devonport does — the honest starting assumption is that demolition consent will be slow, expensive and uncertain, while a sympathetic renovation is the path the plan is designed to approve. Our group’s architectural studio has written a detailed guide to Auckland’s heritage and special character overlays if you want the full rulebook.

And renovation activity in these suburbs isn’t theoretical. Auckland Council’s register of recent resource consent applications — updated weekly, covering the past 26 weeks — consistently shows additions and alterations to existing homes being lodged across the character suburbs. One note of honesty: lodgements aren’t approvals, and a resource consent isn’t a building consent. But the pattern is clear enough — owners in Auckland’s most protected suburbs are choosing to renovate, and the consenting system is set up to let them.

“The first thing I check isn’t the kitchen or the bathrooms — it’s whether the fundamentals are right. If the entrance works, the living areas get sun, and the framing is sound, that home has earned the right to stay. You can fix a dated interior. You can’t buy back a demolished villa.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations

Garage Conversion Auckland

💡 Quick tip: Check whether your property sits in a Special Character Area before you spend a dollar on concept designs — Auckland Council’s GeoMaps shows the overlay for free, and it changes which options are actually on the table.

When to Renovate or Rebuild: An Honest Framework From 1,000+ Projects

We renovate homes for a living, so you’d expect us to tell you to renovate. We won’t — not every time. After a thousand-plus projects, the pattern is clear enough to state as a framework.

Renovation wins when

The structure is sound, you’re keeping most of the footprint, and character or location is part of the value. That covers the classic Auckland cases: the Grey Lynn villa with good bones and a terrible 1980s kitchen; the Mt Eden bungalow that needs insulation, rewiring and an opened-up living area; the 1970s brick-and-tile in Henderson where the layout is wrong but the shell is honest. Renovation also wins when you need to stay in the home — plenty of our clients live in through staged work, the way a family in St Heliers did during their four-level renovation. And it wins financially when less than about two-thirds of the floor area needs touching.

Rebuilding wins when

The structure itself is the problem. Failed foundations, widespread untreated framing rot, a monolithic-clad leaky home from the 1994–2004 era where the damage has gone past what recladding and targeted repair can economically fix, or a site where the existing house blocks the only good use of the land. It can also win when you’d be replacing more than 80–90% of the home anyway — at that point you’re paying renovation complexity for new-build scope, which is the worst of both. If that’s your situation, you’ll need an architect and a new-build contract, and the right move is a feasibility assessment before anything else — not a renovation quote from us, and not a rebuild sales pitch from anyone.

The trap in the middle

The expensive mistake isn’t picking the wrong side — it’s drifting between them. A renovation scoped optimistically, hit by surprises behind the cladding, stretched by mid-project changes of mind, can quietly climb to new-build money without delivering a new-build result. The defence is boring and effective: invasive pre-purchase-style inspection before you commit, a fixed scope, and a contingency you don’t touch for upgrades.

“I tell clients to decide their walk-away number before we open a single wall. If the invasive inspection pushes the renovation past that number, rebuilding or selling deserves a genuine look — deciding that at the start costs nothing, deciding it halfway through costs tens of thousands.”
— Cici Zou, Designer (NZ Dip. Interior Design, Certified Designer), Superior Renovations

Bathroom Designs

Important note: Cost ranges in this article come from our completed projects and published NZ sources. They’re a planning guide, not a quote — site conditions, scope and finish level move every number, in both directions.

Want a ballpark for your renovation?
See the calculators →

The Character Home Question: What a Rebuild Can Never Give Back

Sound familiar? You love the street, the neighbours, the school zone — it’s the house that doesn’t work. That’s the situation where the renovate-or-rebuild question gets emotional, and where the maths needs one more input: the things you can’t rebuild.

Character has a market value, not just a sentimental one

Native timber floors, high studs, original joinery, a villa frontage on a tree-lined Ponsonby street — replicating those features in a new build is either impossible or eye-wateringly expensive. When we renovated a historic Epsom bungalow, the brief was exactly this balance: modern kitchen and bathrooms inside a character shell the owners had no intention of losing. You can see how that lands in practice in our historic Epsom bungalow renovation.

We’ve also had clients run the full renovate-or-go question with us. A Hillsborough family weighing whether to renovate or sell put the numbers side by side and chose a full home renovation in Hillsborough — kitchen, bathroom, the lot — rather than paying agent’s fees, moving costs and a premium for someone else’s finished house. The same logic applies against a rebuild: every dollar that doesn’t go into demolition, rent and full-footprint construction is a dollar that goes into the parts of the home you actually live in.

acrylic shower

💡 Quick tip: Before pricing anything, pull recent sale prices for renovated homes on your own street from homes.co.nz — that’s your realistic value ceiling, and it should shape your renovation budget before any design work starts.

The overcapitalisation guardrail

The honest limit runs the other way too. If your renovation budget pushes the total invested well past what comparable homes on your street sell for, you’re gifting money to the next owner. A useful rule: keep the renovation spend inside 10–20% of the home’s current value unless you’re planning to stay 10+ years — at which point you’re buying lifestyle, and that’s a legitimate purchase. This is where our design-and-build approach to major home renovations starts every project with a feasibility conversation rather than a quote — at our Wairau Valley showroom (16B Link Drive) or in your home: scope, value ceiling and consent pathway first, drawings second.

Have you been putting the decision off because both paths feel enormous? That’s normal. The fix isn’t more browsing — it’s real numbers for your specific house.

Renovate or Rebuild? Making the Call on Your Own Home

So, should you renovate or rebuild? For most structurally sound Auckland homes — and especially anything pre-1940 in a character suburb — renovation delivers the result at a genuinely lower total cost, through a faster and more predictable consent path, without a year in a rental. Rebuilding earns its place when the structure has failed or you’d be replacing nearly everything anyway. The one unforgivable move is deciding on gut feel: get the invasive inspection, check the overlay, set the walk-away number, then commit properly to whichever side wins.

We’ve put 1,000+ Auckland projects’ worth of that thinking into a free feasibility process — bring us the house, we’ll bring the numbers.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ See how we manage major renovations from design through to build
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Is it cheaper to renovate or rebuild a house in NZ?

Usually renovating — but not because of the per-metre rate. Renovation in Auckland runs $2,000–$4,500 per square metre against $3,000–$4,500+ for a new build, and the rates overlap. The real saving is that a renovation only pays for the areas needing work, while a rebuild pays for every square metre plus $8,000–$32,000 demolition, 20–30% in site and consent extras, and around a year of rental accommodation.

How much does it cost to renovate a whole house in Auckland?

Based on Superior Renovations' completed projects, mid-range full home renovations in Auckland land between $80,000 and $160,000, or $2,000–$4,500 per square metre. Larger character-home renovations — full reconfiguration, rewiring, replumbing and insulation — commonly run $200,000–$500,000 depending on scope and finish. These are ranges from finished jobs, not quotes; an on-site assessment prices your specific home.

How much does it cost to rebuild a house in Auckland?

Trade Me Property's 2026 guide puts average new-build rates at $3,000–$4,500 per square metre, with premium builds over $5,000. A 200m² rebuild is realistically $600,000–$900,000 in construction, plus demolition ($8,000–$32,000), plus 20–30% for site works, consents and externals, plus accommodation during the 12+ month build — commonly $780,000 to well over $1 million all-up.

Do I need resource consent to demolish my house in Auckland?

If your home sits in a Special Character Area under the Auckland Unitary Plan's D18 overlay, yes in most cases — total demolition, or substantial demolition exceeding 30% of wall elevations and roof area, is a restricted discretionary activity requiring resource consent on sites subject to the demolition control. That control covers all of Isthmus A and mapped sites in the other special character areas. Outside these overlays, demolition still runs through the building consent process. Check Auckland Council GeoMaps to confirm what applies to your property.

Can I renovate a house in a special character area in Auckland?

Yes — sympathetic renovation is the pathway the Special Character Areas Overlay is designed to enable. Interior renovations generally need only building consent, while external additions and alterations may need resource consent depending on the zone. Auckland Council's public register shows additions and alterations being lodged consistently across Grey Lynn, Ponsonby, Mt Eden, Herne Bay and Devonport.

How long does a building consent take in Auckland?

Auckland Council must process a complete building consent application within 20 working days under the Building Act, per MBIE's Building Performance guidance. The clock stops if council requests further information, so well-prepared documentation matters. A knockdown-rebuild adds demolition consenting and, in character areas, resource consent — which can extend the pre-construction phase by months.

What does it cost to demolish a house in NZ?

Demolishing a standard residential home typically costs $8,000–$32,000 in New Zealand, depending on size, access and materials. Homes built before 2000 frequently contain asbestos, which adds anywhere from several hundred dollars to $15,000+ for safe removal — friable asbestos can cost considerably more. Utility disconnections and council fees sit on top.

Should I renovate or sell my Auckland home?

Run both sets of numbers honestly. Selling costs include agent commission, marketing, moving, and buying someone else's finished home at a premium. Renovating keeps you in your location and school zone and directs the spend into your own asset — one of our Hillsborough clients ran exactly this comparison and chose a full home renovation. The renovation case weakens if the spend would push you well past your street's value ceiling.

Is it worth renovating a villa or character home in Auckland?

Often, yes — character features like native timber, high studs and original joinery are expensive or impossible to replicate in a new build, and demolition consent in character suburbs is uncertain at best. If the framing and foundations are sound, renovation typically delivers better value than fighting the overlay for a rebuild. An invasive inspection settles the structural question before you commit either way.

How do I avoid a renovation costing as much as a rebuild?

Three defences: commission an invasive inspection before committing so surprises surface on paper rather than mid-build; lock a fixed scope and resist mid-project upgrades; and set a walk-away number in advance — if the inspected cost passes it, rebuilding or selling deserves a genuine comparison. Renovations drift to new-build money through optimistic scoping and accumulated changes, not bad luck.

Further Resources for your home renovation

Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

18 months 0 percent interest long term finance badge

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

open plan kitchen, kitchen layout, kitchen design

Kitchen Renovation

翻新一个厨房需要花费多少钱？新西兰费用指南 — Superior Renovations

June 6, 20260

在新西兰，通过装修公司完成一次标准的整体厨房翻新，平均费用为 19,000 至 29,000 纽币（含材料、设计、项目管理、人工、水电，不含电器）。选择 DIY 可能省钱，但如果没有受过专业训练，返工和隐患的风险也随之而来。翻新厨房的最终费用取决于很多因素——而翻新的目的，是决定预算的最主要因素。

如果翻新只是为了出售房屋，我们建议使用中档标准的材料，不需要太多定制。但如果是为了提升舒适度和功能性、自己长期使用，我们会建议选择更高品质的产品——这样您能更长久地享受新厨房。

这份指南罗列了所有可能影响厨房翻新总成本的因素。无论您打算 DIY 还是做高端定制翻新，它都能在您动工前的研究阶段派上用场。

想直接获得自己厨房的估算？使用我们免费的厨房装修费用计算器——输入您的具体需求，结果几秒内发送到邮箱。

扫描二维码，在小红书上找到我们

Superior Renovations 小红书二维码

体验家居改造的艺术，选择 Superior Renovations！我们是奥克兰首屈一指的浴室、厨房及全屋装修专家。从概念设计到完工，我们的团队确保每个细节都完美无缺。扫描二维码，在小红书上关注我们，获取最新项目、装修技巧和灵感。

扫描二维码，通过微信联系我们

Superior Renovations 微信二维码

想开始您的装修之旅吗？通过微信与 Superior Renovations 联系，享受便捷、个性化的中文服务。立即扫描，提问、获取专家建议，踏出家居改造的第一步！

1. 翻新一个厨房的平均费用是多少？

在奥克兰，标准整体厨房翻新的平均费用为 19,000 至 29,000 纽币，包含材料、设计、项目管理、人工、管道和电气工程，不含电器。最终花费取决于橱柜、电器、台面和材料的选择、人工，以及是否需要改动布局。

区间的两端差距很大：小型工程（更换橱柜门、表面重新喷漆、换防溅板）可能只需几千纽币；而涉及布局改动或厨房面积变化的完整定制翻新——定制橱柜、新台面、新地板、新防溅板、新灯具和全套新电器——费用通常从 41,000 纽币起。

返回顶部 ↑

2. 厨房翻新的预算分配明细

翻新厨房的花费取决于您想在厨房里加入什么。下表展示了一个典型整体厨房翻新中，各个项目在总预算中的大致占比——它能帮您理解钱主要花在哪里，并据此分配自己的预算：

项目	预算占比
橱柜	约 28%
安装与人工	约 18%
家用电器	约 15%
台面与防溅板	约 11%
地板	约 7%
灯具	约 5%
油漆	约 5%
窗户与门	约 4%
设计师	约 3%
管道工程	约 3%
其他	约 1%

橱柜是单项占比最大的开支（接近三分之一），其次是安装人工和电器——这三项加起来通常超过总预算的 60%。控制预算时，优先从这三项入手最有效。

返回顶部 ↑

3. 基础、中档与高端厨房的费用区间

在确定档次之前，先问自己几个问题：

在现有空间里，您明确想实现什么？
您想从这次翻新中获得什么？
哪些部分要翻新？哪些部分保留不动？
您想为新厨房增加什么功能？
保持原有布局，还是做出改变？
您想要什么风格？
最后——您愿意为理想的厨房投入多少预算？

如果翻新是为了出售房屋，业内的一般建议是：厨房翻新的投入控制在房屋价值的 5% 至 15% 以内。

三个档次的费用与包含内容

基础翻新	中档整体翻新（最常见）	高端定制翻新
最高约 $20,700	$19,000 – $29,000	$41,000 起
不改变布局修复并重新喷涂现有橱柜门小型/中档橱柜可选择更换现代化台面（层压板）复合地板更新灯具可含 DIY 成分	可能涉及布局调整定制橱柜与柜门（喷漆）储物空间整理、内置垃圾桶橱柜定制食品柜与拉出式抽屉人造石、大理石、石英或玻璃台面瓷砖地板、设计款防溅板智能厨房功能、新电器含设计、项目管理与全部工种	较大的布局改动新管道、重新布线大理石/实木地板或定制瓷砖设计全套新电器（含高端品牌）天然石材或混凝土台面现代化灯具、智能厨房功能转角设计与定制收纳系统从设计到完工的一条龙服务

Hillsborough 基础厨房翻新 — Superior Renovations

Hillsborough 的基础厨房翻新

West Harbour 中档厨房翻新 — Superior Renovations

West Harbour 的中档厨房

Massey 中档厨房翻新

Stanmore Bay 中高档厨房翻新 — Superior Renovations

Stanmore Bay 的中高档厨房

这只是帮您建立框架的一般指南——实际上大多数客户并不会严格落在某一个档次里，而是从三个档次中各取所需，组合出专属于自己的厨房。

注意：改变布局会产生额外费用。原因是改动区域需要新增管道和重新布线，而这些工程需要奥克兰市议会的建筑许可——许可涉及绘图、文件准备和验收，详见下文人工费用与许可部分。

💡 省钱小妙招：修复厨房的橱柜和柜门，尝试抛光、翻新现有台面，而不是直接买新的。

返回顶部 ↑

4. 在新西兰，翻新一个小型厨房要花多少钱？

小厨房翻新最常见的诉求是”更多储物空间”。好消息是，不需要新建柜体也能大幅提升收纳：

在现有橱柜内加装收纳装置——推拉篮、香料抽屉、餐具和碗盘抽屉，甚至墙角柜，都能在不扩建的前提下提供所需的储物空间。
在现有橱柜里安装储物抽屉，腾出更多备餐空间。
把台面空间最大化——选择现代单水槽而非双水槽，选 4 头炉灶而非更大的炉具。省下的台面就是备餐区，省下的钱可以投到您更在意的地方。

延伸阅读：新西兰小型厨房设计理念指南

动工之前，找专业的装修公司和设计师咨询总是值得的。他们会帮您兼顾功能与美感，推荐最适合您家庭的方案，并制作 3D 模型和效果图——材料、纹理、固定装置一目了然，您在开工前就能看到完工后的样子。

上图的小型厨房翻新位于奥克兰 Greenlane。Joanna 和 Steve 的老式封闭厨房需要升级——我们拆除了一面墙使其变为开放式，并选用中性色调主题，让厨房更通透明亮。查看 Joanna 和 Steve 的完整项目细节 + 前后对比图

按面积参考：约 7 至 9 平方米的小厨房，翻新费用大致在 20,700 至 47,400 纽币之间；约 13 平方米（小厨房的常见平均尺寸），费用约为 27,600 至 62,100 纽币。

返回顶部 ↑

5. 在新西兰翻新一个大型厨房需要花费多少钱？

大型厨房翻新（18 平方米及以上）的费用约为 62,000 至 138,000 纽币。这通常包括大量工程：双套电器、双岛台、餐具室（butler’s pantry）以及布局改动。

Stanmore Bay 厨房翻新前 — Superior Renovations

翻新之前

Stanmore Bay 开放式大厨房翻新后 — Superior Renovations

翻新之后

项目详述（如上图）：Mary Stuart 之前的厨房又旧又封闭。我们拆除了分隔厨房和客厅的墙，打造了一个乡村风格的大型开放式厨房。查看完整项目 + 前后对比

💡 关于项目管理：管理一次厨房翻新，意味着要协调橱柜木工、产品供应商、地板安装、电工、水管工、油漆工、抹灰工、设计师和安装工——协调时间表、解决冲突。大多数人没有时间高效地管理这一切，所以更愿意选择能统筹整个项目的装修公司：这类公司提供全部工种和设计师，以批发价供应材料和电器，并由项目经理协调供应商交货、管理各工种，确保装修按期完成。

奥克兰大型厨房翻新 — Superior Renovations

这个位于 Avondale 的厨房，从一个破旧不堪的老厨房翻新成了现代化的宽敞厨房。

查看更多厨房改造前后对比与项目详述

返回顶部 ↑

6. 各分项的费用：橱柜、电器、台面、防溅板与地板

以下分项价格为一般参考区间，实际报价以现场评估和产品选择为准：

翻新服务	平均费用（纽币）
电气布线	$3,450 – $6,624
水管设施	$4,140 – $8,280
设计咨询	$552 – $4,830
橱柜	$4,140 – $11,040
家用电器	$3,450 – $12,420
地板	$1,518 – $7,590
重修橱柜表面	$1,518 – $12,420
修复台面	$110 – $2,208
全新台面	$1,242 – $6,900
防溅板	$552 – $828
喷漆	$1,380 – $3,450
五金配件	$207 – $1,656

厨房橱柜

橱柜是厨房的门面，也是预算中占比最大的单项。整体橱柜的平均花费在 4,140 至 11,040 纽币之间：

基础方案：保留原有柜体，只更换柜门或铰链，或重新刷漆——成本最低。
中档方案：通过装修公司用中档产品定制橱柜。我们的大多数中档厨房采用 MDF Melteca 定制柜体和柜门。
高端方案：预算充裕时选用更高端的定制材料，价格相应大幅提高。

Epsom Melteca 定制橱柜 — Superior Renovations

Melteca 定制橱柜（Epsom）

Melteca 橡木纹橱柜

查看 Epsom 厨房改造的完整项目规格（见上图）

橱柜翻新的两种经济方案

都想要全定制厨房，但预算不一定允许。两种更经济的方式可以达到接近的效果：

表面抛光重涂：去除现有橱柜的旧漆并重新上漆。务必交给受过培训的专业人员处理，才能保证理想且持久的效果。费用约 2,070 至 4,120 纽币。
更换柜门（refacing）：沿用现有柜体，只更换全部柜门——借此机会自由选择材料、颜色和设计。费用约 4,830 至 12,420 纽币。
更换五金件：严格说不算翻新方案，但更换抽屉和柜门的把手、旋钮，是花小钱改观感的最快方式——单件价格从几纽币到几十纽币不等。

延伸阅读：整理厨房橱柜、抽屉和食品柜的实用方法

厨房电器

装修公司通常建议换装高质量的新电器——它能提升整个厨房乃至房屋的品质感。但电器很容易推高预算，因此不少业主选择保留仍能正常工作的旧电器：

沿用旧电器：微波炉、烤箱等基础电器寿命很长。如果工作状态良好，继续使用即可，能省下数百到上千纽币。
能源之星级电器：价格高于基础款，但能降低能耗开支、延长使用寿命、提升房屋的节能价值——长期看更省钱。入门价格参考：微波炉约 $414 起、洗碗机约 $1,200 起、烤箱约 $1,150 起、冰箱约 $1,500 起。
高端智能电器：在节能基础上增加蓝牙、感应等现代功能，单件约 $1,380 至 $6,900。
嵌入式定制电器：最昂贵的选项，需要按厨房设计嵌入安装，约 $2,070 至 $13,800——但整体效果最统一、最吸引人。

厨房台面

客户最常问的问题之一就是怎么选台面——市面上材料和价位的选择太多了。核心标准是：功能性强、耐磨、防水。

Mary 厨房中的定制石材工程台面。我们让这种人造石呈现出带花纹花岗岩的光泽质感——图案名为”秋叶”，黄色和芥末色的底色与深色橱柜搭配得恰到好处。

预算有限时，层压板或人造石台面是实惠之选——人造石（工程石）可以做出大理石或花岗岩的外观，适合基础和中档厨房，总费用约 2,760 至 6,210 纽币。预算充裕则可选天然石材（大理石、花岗岩），约 4,000 至 7,000 纽币起；追求现代豪华感的混凝土台面价格在 9,000 至 20,000 纽币之间。

各类台面材料的每平方米参考价：

台面材料	每平方米费用（纽币）
瓷砖	$77 – $153
亚克力	$30 – $416
胶木	$230 – $460
层压板	$383 – $613
竹制台面	$383 – $920
人造石	$498 – $924
碎石板	$613 – $920
可丽耐®（人造大理石）	$613 – $920
混凝土	$613 – $1,227
皂石	$613 – $1,303
大理石	$613 – $1,533
凯撒石（人造石）	$613 – $1,533
纸纹石	$613 – $1,533
花岗岩	$767 – $1,533
水磨石	$767 – $1,533
石英	$767 – $1,533
缟玛瑙	$767 – $3,067
石灰岩	$997 – $2,300
玻璃	$1,227 – $1,533
铜	$1,533 – $1,993

💡 省钱小妙招：想在台面上省钱，可以继续使用现有台面，只对损坏处做修复。专业的台面修复服务费用约 110 至 2,208 纽币。

厨房防溅板

防溅板是厨房清洁的关键——安装在灶台后方的墙面，减少油污附着。常用易清洁的材料：玻璃、灌浆线较少的大块瓷砖，或人造石。

Parnell 的厨房翻新

Bucklands Beach 厨房防溅板 — Superior Renovations

Bucklands Beach 的厨房翻新

项目规格：Parnell 的厨房装修（左上图）｜ Bucklands Beach 的厨房装修（右上图）

预算有限时，陶瓷砖是最经济也最受欢迎的防溅板选择，约 153 纽币/平方米；另一个选项是不锈钢防溅板，约 383 纽币/平方米。

厨房地板

厨房地板承受的磨损远超其他房间，选材必须易清洁、不沾污、耐液体。购买前确认四点：耐用、耐磨、防水、脚感舒适。

Bucklands Beach 的厨房改造：安装了模仿硬木的瓷砖——易于维护，也是经济有效的选择

查看以上厨房的完整项目规格

复合木地板：外观和脚感都接近真木地板，但属于人造材料——奥克兰最流行、性价比最高的选择，约 2,070 至 5,520 纽币，易清洁、经久耐用。
瓷砖：易维护的另一个好选择。如今的瓷砖工艺可以做出看起来、摸起来都像木材的效果——拥有木纹的颜值，免去天然木材难打理的麻烦。
石基地板（高端选择）：如 Tile Depot 的石基地板——终身保修、100% 防水、易维护、兼容地暖、抗阳光老化，平均约 1,380 至 4,830 纽币。

地板选择	平均费用（纽币）
瓷砖	$690 – $3,036
木地板	$3,036 – $6,900
混凝土地板	$2,070 – $9,522
软木地板	$1,104 – $2,208
复合地板	$2,070 – $5,520
亚麻地板	$1,380 – $3,450
板岩地板	$2,070 – $4,830
石材地板	$1,380 – $4,830
乙烯基地板	$1,656 – $2,346
竹地板	$828 – $1,656
大理石地板	$2,070 – $6,624

Mary Stuart 的设计理念是让厨房呈现西班牙别墅的氛围，本应使用硬木地板。但硬木难以维护，我们改用木纹瓷砖——看起来、摸起来都像木头，保养却容易得多。

返回顶部 ↑

7. 聘请厨房设计师的费用是多少？

有人认为翻新厨房不需要设计师——但对于中高档厨房翻新，装修公司通常都会建议引入设计师。设计师能在纹理、配色、材料和当下流行风格上给出专业建议，并制作 3D 模型和渲染效果图——油漆、材料、门把手、台面、电器全部呈现，让您在动工前就看到完工效果。

装修公司往往配有内部设计师，他们会在整个装修过程中与项目经理协作——确保图纸真正变成现实。

以上是我们的设计师 Cici 为 Parnell 一位厨房装修客户制作的 3D 效果图与设计实例。

认证设计师的收费约 6,900 纽币起，或在奥克兰按小时计费约 138 至 276 纽币/小时。

延伸阅读：如何设计传统、古典、别墅、现代、当代和工业风的厨房

返回顶部 ↑

8. 翻新厨房的人工费用是多少？

整个项目的多工种人工成本约在 2,760 至 10,280 纽币之间，涵盖水管工、电工、瓦工、灌浆工、油漆工、批灰工、安装工、建筑工、项目经理和设计师——如涉及建筑许可，还可能包括建筑师。

管道费用

适用于需要更换或改动管道的厨房——例如水槽的新管路、污水管等：

基础厨房水龙头约 $207 至 $414；设计师款水龙头可达 $2,000。
安装厨房水槽约 $345 至 $828。
更换涉及水路的电器约 $621 至 $2,480。

照明和电气工程费用

电气工程约 69 至 138 纽币/小时，涵盖：

安装嵌入式照明
新电器布线——炉具、微波炉、洗碗机、烤箱
开关插座——电源插头、USB 端口、柜内灯等
橱柜底部灯带

更换燃气管道必须由持证专业人员完成，是一笔不小的开支：约 345 至 2,500 纽币。

油漆费用

我们建议厨房交给专业刷漆——与 DIY 相比，专业施工的效果更好也更持久。专业油漆包含批灰、GIB 填充、两层底漆加两层面漆，施工人员还会保护好橱柜、协助移开电器并遮蔽电口。小厨房约 1,104 纽币起，大厨房可达 3,500 纽币。

瓷砖和地板铺设

整体翻新通常连地板一起换。复合地板的供应加安装约 80 至 140 纽币/平方米，其中人工约 50 至 80 纽币/平方米。铺贴瓷砖则需要瓦工和灌浆工：普通厨房瓷砖的人工费用约 1,000 至 3,500 纽币，取决于复杂程度——瓷砖越大、灌浆线越少，人工越低；小尺寸瓷砖的美缝工作量更大，人工相应更高。

建筑许可（Building Consent）

在奥克兰，房产的建筑许可由奥克兰市议会管理。如果厨房布局有较大改动——比如水管工需要新建管路，或要拆除承重墙——就需要申请建筑许可。

流程是：议会审查您的建筑师图纸，判断拆除承重墙、重新布线或新增管道是否可行；许可获批后，承包商才能开工。奥克兰市议会的建筑许可费用约为 2,500 至 6,500 纽币，获批通常需要数周到数月。我们的建议是尽早提交申请，让工程能在圣诞节前开工并完成。

返回顶部 ↑

9. 如何在预算范围内改造厨房？

无论出于什么原因翻新，预算管理都是关键——尤其当您投入的是辛苦攒下的钱。对想花的金额有清晰概念，设定固定预算，并在签约前从装修公司拿到一份固定报价。

我们也会要求客户预留一笔应急资金——施工中可能出现不可预见的情况，比如发现水渍或腐烂的木材，这类问题通常会增加 1,000 至 2,000 纽币的开支。

在预算内装修的 4 大技巧

能 DIY 的部分自己做。自行更换橱柜门、自己刷漆，可以省下人工和项目监管费用——但水管和电气属于专业项目，务必雇用持证专业人员。
自己决定橱柜方案。在”重修表面”和”翻新刷漆”之间做选择——对经济型厨房来说，两者都是非常划算的选项。
只升级必要的，不升级想要的。柜门把手、置物架、玫瑰金水龙头这类点缀，完全可以留到以后再加。
分阶段推进。预算紧张时，您可能需要自己管理项目——确保每一步都有计划，分阶段装修是控制现金流的好办法。

返回顶部 ↑

10. 厨房翻新的投资回报是多少？

一般而言，厨房翻新可在房屋售价中收回约 54% 至 80% 的投入——基础翻新的回收比例通常高于豪华翻新，因为买家愿意为”崭新可用”买单，却不一定为高端定制买单。您的实际回报也取决于所在社区：周边房价越能支撑，升级的溢价空间越大。

因此，如果翻新是为了出售，请把厨房投入控制在房屋价值的 5% 至 15% 以内，并优先选择简洁、耐看、低维护的中档产品组合。

返回顶部 ↑

11. 翻新前后的实用建议

翻新之前

先设定预算，并问自己：DIY 还是交给装修公司？然后：

研究最适合您厨房的布局——需要帮助时，让设计师介入布局规划。
围绕”需求”而不是”想要”做决定——锦上添花的项目可以日后再投入。
挑出最需要关注的部分优先修复——这能压低当期预算，但日后追加改动会有额外费用，要心里有数。
从拆除算起，厨房翻新一般需要 5 至 6 周（前提是设计已确认、定制部件已制造完成）——尽量安排在不太依赖厨房的时段，也可以在装修期间搭建临时厨房。
确认装修公司在施工现场有良好的健康与安全规范——装修粉尘吸入后可能造成长期健康损害。条件允许的话，施工期间不妨外出度个假。
需要完工清洁服务的话，提前和承包商确认——多数公司可以安排。

延伸阅读：打造功能性厨房设计的布局规划指南

翻新之后

与承包商一起验收厨房，发现任何问题当场提出。
确认粉尘清理后厨房一尘不染。
向承包商索取电器、材料和工艺的保修文件。
最后也是最重要的——好好享受您的新厨房！

返回顶部 ↑

12. 如何在奥克兰选择合适的装修公司？

选定公司前要核实的 9 件事

1. 研究：至少找到三家候选公司——通过亲友推荐，以及查看公司网站上的推荐信、在建项目和 Google 客户评价来核实口碑。

2. 当面沟通：与项目经理见面，聊聊他们做过的类似项目，尽可能多提问——这能让您预判项目期间与他们的协作体验。

3. 报价：不要接受拿到的第一份报价。多取几份报价进行比较，确保是固定报价，并明确列出可能产生变更的项目。最便宜的公司不一定是最好的。

4. 供应商：主动询问公司的供应商是谁。选择与知名供应商合作的公司——这些供应商会为产品提供独立的质保和担保。

5. 合法注册：所有公司都应合法注册经营。可在新西兰公司注册处核实：companies-register.companiesoffice.govt.nz

6. 过往案例：选定前，要求查看他们过去完成的厨房改造——了解其他客户在装修过程中的真实体验。

7. 与老客户交谈：请公司提供过往客户名单，直接询问他们：橱柜、台面、地板、防溅板用了什么材料？是否出现过缺陷？他们对成品满意吗？

8. 保险与履约能力：确认公司有保险，以防施工中发生意外；同时观察公司是否敢于承诺按期完工——这往往反映出企业的系统是否健康。

9. 合同：签约前，装修公司会在合同中列明步骤、报价、保险和项目时间安排。必要时咨询您的银行、会计师或律师，双方确认无误再进入下一步。

总而言之：如果是为出售或提升租金收益而翻新，只做橱柜、油漆这类高回报升级；如果是为长期自住，选择耐用、易维护的材料，并让设计师通过布局优化和创新收纳把功能性做到最大。像我们这样的整体装修公司提供一条龙服务——设计、定制台面与橱柜、全部工种（电工、水管、瓦工、灌浆工、油漆工、建筑工）、议会许可、电器、固定装置和项目管理。

延伸阅读：我们在奥克兰最具代表性的厨房装修照片合集

返回顶部 ↑

13. 特色项目：基础、中档与高端厨房

基础厨房 — Papatoetoe 的全套厨房装修

这个厨房为一个有小孩的年轻家庭而装修——设计必须简洁、材料必须易清洁。我们使用了瓷砖地板、石制台面和 Melteca 橱柜，并定制了带拉出式抽屉的茶水间，方便日常使用。查看装修前后图片和完整项目规格

Papatoetoe 基础厨房翻新 — Superior Renovations

Papatoetoe 厨房翻新细节 — Superior Renovations

基础厨房 — Hillsborough 的全套厨房装修

这个厨房翻新的起因是外墙漏水需要修复，客户因此遭受了不少损失，最终决定整体翻新。我们以简洁的风格和低维护的材料完成了装修。查看完整的厨房改造 + 前后对比图片

翻新前

翻新后

中档厨房 — Bucklands Beach 的 Lynette 和 Henry

这次装修采用深色石材工程台面，与白色缓冲橱柜形成戏剧性的对比。灰黑色调的六边形瓷砖防溅板成为厨房的视觉焦点，灰色大瓷砖地板一路延续到饭厅。查看完整项目细节

Bucklands Beach 中档厨房翻新 — Superior Renovations

Bucklands Beach 六边形瓷砖防溅板 — Superior Renovations

中档厨房 — Mangere Bridge 的别墅式厨房

这是我们最早翻新的别墅风格厨房之一——真正的木质台面经过修复和涂层处理以抵抗磨损，橱柜按平房（bungalow）风格定制，与房屋本身的年代感完美呼应。查看全部项目规格 + 更多图片

Mangere Bridge 别墅式厨房 — Superior Renovations

Mangere Bridge 乡村风厨房 — Superior Renovations

Mangere Bridge 木质台面厨房 — Superior Renovations

高端厨房 — Massey 的 Guru 和 Neeta

这次翻新涉及结构改动：翻新前，这片空间是餐厅、厨房和客厅三个独立房间。我们拆除了所有隔墙，把整个区域改造成一个动线流畅的大空间——非常适合娱乐和家庭生活。查看改造前后图片 + 完整项目规格

返回顶部 ↑

常见问题

翻新我的厨房需要多少钱？

在奥克兰，通过装修公司完成一次标准整体厨房翻新的平均费用为 19,000 至 29,000 纽币，含材料、设计、项目管理、人工和水电工程，不含电器。涉及布局或结构改动的完整定制翻新通常从 41,000 纽币起。

我必须自己找厨房设计师吗？

不需要。如果您与我们合作装修，我们的内部设计师会提供专业建议，并在动工前为您制作 3D 模型和成品厨房效果图。

我需要自己找电工、水管工或其他工人吗？

不需要。我们是一站式厨房装修公司——报价包含设计、全部固定装置供应、定制台面与橱柜、电工、地板、照明、管道、油漆工、抹灰工，以及监督整个装修过程的项目经理。您无需另找任何工人。

预算紧张时如何装修厨房？

规划是关键。如果是为转售或提升价值而装修，建议只升级橱柜门、台面和重新刷漆——费用约在 4,000 至 10,000 纽币之间；自己动手 DIY 部分工作还能进一步压低成本。水电工程务必交给持证专业人员。

厨房装修需要多长时间？

一般来说，厨房装修从拆除之日起 5 到 6 周内完成。前提是设计稿已最终确认、厨房所需的定制部件已制造完成（需要额外制造时间的防溅板不包括在内）。

改变厨房布局需要建筑许可吗？

需要。布局改动通常涉及新增管道或重新布线，拆除承重墙更必须经过审批——这些都需要奥克兰市议会的建筑许可。许可费用约 2,500 至 6,500 纽币，获批通常需要数周到数月，建议尽早提交申请。

厨房翻新能收回多少投资？

一般而言，厨房翻新可在房屋售价中收回约 54% 至 80% 的投入。如果翻新是为了出售，建议将厨房投入控制在房屋价值的 5% 至 15% 以内，并选择简洁、低维护的中档产品组合。

厨房预算应该怎么分配？

典型整体厨房翻新中，橱柜约占 28%，安装与人工约占 18%，电器约占 15%，台面与防溅板约占 11%——这四项合计超过总预算的 70%。控制预算时优先从这几项入手最有效。

还有问题没解决？预约 Superior Renovations 团队的免费咨询

由 Superior Renovations 撰写

Superior Renovations 迅速成为奥克兰最受推荐的装修公司之一，这归功于我们友好的态度、透明的定价和公开的工作方式。当您的奥克兰房屋需要装修改造服务时，Superior Renovations 是您可以信赖的团队——高质量的工艺、高效的进度和具有成本效益的解决方案。

或致电我们：0800 199 888

18个月免息分期付款 — Superior Renovations

一直在推迟您的装修计划吗？

我们与 Q Mastercard® 合作，为您提供 18 个月免息分期付款方案——现在就享受您的新家，减少资金压力。

了解更多：免息分期付款方案*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

House Renovation

Cost to Build a New Garage Cost Calculator NZ Superior Renovations ®

May 30, 20260

Quick answer: building a new garage in Auckland costs from around $1,800 per square metre for a basic build to about $2,300 per square metre for a high-end one. That puts a single garage from roughly $55,000 and a double from around $90,000, once you allow for the roof and cladding you choose. Size, build grade, roofing and cladding are the four things that move the number.

A garage is a proper consented build, not a kitset drop, so how much it costs to build a garage in New Zealand usually sits higher than people expect. Here’s the breakdown, and a quick way to price yours.

Free tool

Get an indicative cost to build your new garage

Open the new garage cost calculator →

How much does it cost to build a garage in NZ?

We price a new garage on floor area multiplied by a build grade, then adjust for the roofing and cladding you choose. These are the indicative Auckland figures behind our calculator:

Factor	Indicative rate
Single garage (approx 30m²)	base size
Double garage (approx 46m²)	base size
Basic build	from $1,800 per m²
Mid-range build	from $1,950 per m²
High-end build	from $2,300 per m²
Roofing & cladding choice	adjusts the total up

These are indicative figures for planning, not a fixed quote. Your final cost depends on the size, the grade of finish, the roof and cladding materials, your site, and whether you need services like power or plumbing run to it.

💡 Quick tip: A standalone garage almost always needs a building consent and a compliant foundation, drainage and often a vehicle crossing. Those are the costs that separate a real build from a cheap kitset shed.

Single vs double garage cost

Size is the first lever. A single garage of around 30 square metres at the basic grade works out near $55,000 to $65,000 once roofing and cladding are added. A double garage of around 46 square metres runs closer to $90,000 to $110,000 at a mid-range grade.

Step up to a high-end finish, add a mezzanine or a sleepout fit-out, and it climbs from there. Choose your size, grade, roof and cladding in the new garage cost calculator and it builds the estimate for you, rather than you guessing off a per-metre rate. Our new garage cost guide has more on the options.

What size is a single or double garage in NZ?

Size drives the cost, so it pays to know the numbers before you plan. A tight single garage is about 18m², but most people build closer to 20-30m² to fit storage, a workbench or a bit of room around the car. A double garage starts around 36m² and runs up to about 46m² once you allow space to open both doors and move.

Single garage. Around 3.0-3.6m wide by 6m deep. Fits one car; go wider if you want storage down one side.
Double garage. Around 5.4-6m wide by 6m deep. Fits two cars, or one car plus a workshop or gym zone.
Oversized or high-stud. Extra width, depth or height for a boat, a trailer or a mezzanine adds floor area, and cost.

Our calculator uses generous footprints – a 30m² single and a 46m² double – so the estimate reflects a garage you can actually use, not just park in. Set your own dimensions in the new garage cost calculator to see how size moves the number.

How build grade, roof and cladding change the price

Two same-sized garages can differ by tens of thousands depending on the specification.

Build grade – basic, mid-range or high-end sets the base rate, covering the quality of the structure, doors, and finishing.
Roofing – a standard metal roof is the baseline; membrane, concrete tile, slate or copper each add to the total, with slate and copper the priciest.
Cladding – the exterior finish, from vinyl and steel through to timber, shifts the cost to match or complement your house.

Matching the garage to your existing home is worth doing, both for looks and for resale. The calculator lets you test each combination on the price before you commit.

Kitset vs a built-on-site garage

This is where a lot of the price confusion comes from. A kitset garage has a lower sticker price, but the sticker is not the finished cost. To make a kitset a permanent, compliant structure you still add a consented concrete foundation, drainage, a vehicle crossing where one is needed, and installation. Once those are in, the gap to a built-on-site garage narrows.

What the difference buys you:

It matches the house. A built garage is designed around your home and site – roofline, cladding and finish – rather than sitting apart as a shed.
Compliance is handled. Consent, foundation and sign-off are managed as one job, not bolted on afterwards.
Resale. A garage that reads as part of the home usually adds more value than a standalone kit.

If budget is the priority a kitset can still make sense – just price it with the foundation, consent and install included, not the kit on its own.

Do you need consent to build a garage?

Almost always, yes. A new garage is a building over 10 square metres, so it needs an Auckland Council building consent, a compliant foundation, and sign-off. There are narrow exemptions for very small, single-storey detached buildings, but a standard single or double garage sits well over the threshold. Confirm your situation with Auckland Council, and the Building Performance (MBIE) guidance sets out what counts as building work needing consent – we manage the consent as part of the build.

Get your garage number, then get it confirmed

A well-built garage adds storage, security and value, and pairs well with wider outdoor work like driveways and landscaping. The smart first move is a realistic figure for the garage you actually want. Start with the new garage cost calculator, see how it fits a bigger project in our Auckland home renovation guide, then request a free feasibility report for a measured quote from the Superior Renovations team.

Free tool

Price your new garage in under a minute

Open the new garage cost calculator →

How much does it cost to build a garage in NZ?

In Auckland, a new garage costs from about $1,800 per square metre for a basic build, $1,950 for mid-range, and $2,300 for high-end. That puts a single garage (around 30m2) from roughly $55,000 to $65,000, and a double (around 46m2) around $90,000 to $110,000, once roofing and cladding are added.

How much does it cost to build a double garage in NZ?

A double garage of around 46 square metres usually runs between $90,000 and $110,000 at a mid-range grade in Auckland, before any high-end finishes. The exact figure depends on the build grade and your choice of roofing and cladding. Our calculator prices your specific combination.

Why does a garage cost so much to build?

A standalone garage is a full consented build. It needs a building consent, a compliant concrete foundation, drainage, a framed and clad structure, a roof, and a garage door, plus often a vehicle crossing. That is a very different job from dropping a kitset shed on the lawn, which is why the cost is higher.

Do I need building consent to build a garage?

In almost all cases yes. A new garage is over 10 square metres, so it needs an Auckland Council building consent and sign-off. Only very small detached buildings may be exempt, and a standard single or double garage is well over that threshold.

Is it cheaper to build a garage or buy a kitset?

A kitset shed has a lower sticker price, but once you add a consented foundation, drainage, and installation to make it a permanent, compliant structure, the gap narrows. A built-on-site garage also integrates properly with your home and site, which matters for durability and resale.

How does the roof and cladding choice affect the cost?

Roofing and cladding both scale the total. A standard metal roof is the baseline, while membrane, concrete tile, slate or copper add more, with slate and copper the most expensive. Cladding options from vinyl and steel through to timber also shift the price. The calculator lets you test each combination.

How long does it take to build a garage?

A straightforward single garage often takes a few weeks on site once consent is granted, with a double or high-end build taking longer. Consent processing time is separate and sits before the build. Your project manager gives you a full timeline up front.

What size is a single garage in NZ?

A single garage in New Zealand is typically about 3.0 to 3.6 metres wide by 6 metres deep, roughly 18 to 21 square metres. Many people build a little larger, 20 to 30 square metres, to fit storage or a workbench alongside the car. The wider you go, the more usable the space.

How big is a double garage in NZ?

A double garage is usually around 5.4 to 6 metres wide by 6 metres deep, about 32 to 36 square metres, and up to roughly 46 square metres with room to open both doors and move around. That extra space is what makes room for a workshop, gym or storage as well as two cars.

Can I build a garage on the side of my house?

Yes, an attached garage on the side of the house is common and can share a wall with the home, which affects the foundation and structural design. It still needs a building consent, and boundary setbacks under the Auckland Unitary Plan may apply. Confirm your site rules with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner.

Author: Superior Renovations

House Extension Cost Calculator NZ — Estimate in 60 Seconds | Superior Renovations

Get Your Personalised Estimate

Why a Calculator Beats a Generic “Per m²” Estimate

What Goes Into the Estimate

See Your Personalised Number

Going Up or Going Out: How the Calculator Treats a Two-Storey Extension

Why Going Up Costs More

Why Going Out Isn’t Automatically Cheaper

What Different Extension Sizes Actually Buy You

Small Extensions (roughly 10–25m²)

Mid-Size Extensions (roughly 25–50m²)

Large Extensions (50m²+)

What You Get in Your Inbox

The Three Variables That Move Your Number the Most

Get Your Free Estimate Now

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the house extension cost calculator free?

How accurate is the estimate?

What's the average cost to extend a house per square metre in Auckland?

Does a house extension require building consent in Auckland?

How much more does a second-storey extension cost than a single-storey?

Does the estimate include GST?

How long does it take to get the estimate?

Can I get a fixed quote without using the calculator first?

Can I use the calculator estimate for my mortgage or finance application?

What happens after I submit, will someone call me?

Further Resources for your house extension

Need more information?

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

House Recladding Cost Calculator Tool (NZ)

How much does recladding cost in NZ?

What does it cost to reclad a whole house?

Replacement cladding options and what they do to the price

What it costs to reclad a weatherboard home

Recladding a leaky or monolithic home

What leaky home repair costs actually cover

Recladding across Auckland: where the demand sits

Do you need consent to reclad?

How long does a reclad take, and can you stay in the house?

The timeline

Living in the house

What drives the final recladding cost

How much does it cost to reclad a house in NZ?

How much does it cost to reclad a monolithic house?

How much does it cost to reclad a weatherboard home?

Why is recladding so expensive?

Do I need building consent to reclad my house?

What is included in leaky home repair costs?

Can I still make a Weathertight Homes claim?

Does the estimate include GST?

How long does a recladding project take?

Can I live in my house during a reclad?

Should I reroof at the same time as recladding?

Further Resources for your recladding project

Need more information?

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

Kitchen Renovation Cost Calculator Tool (NZ)

Planning Your Kitchen Renovation in Auckland

Get started with the calculator

What Goes Into a Full Kitchen Renovation?

Get started

Hidden Costs That Can Derail Your Kitchen Renovation Budget

How Much Does a Kitchen Renovation Cost in Auckland?

Get started

What a Small Kitchen Renovation Costs

How Much Do Kitchen Designers Charge in NZ?

Do You Need a Building Consent for a Kitchen Renovation?

Factors That Drive Kitchen Renovation Costs in NZ

Custom Cabinetry vs Flat-Pack: What the Difference Actually Costs

Where Our Cabinetry Is Made

About Our Kitchen Cost Calculator

Ready to Get Started?

Get started