Author: Superior Renovations

Updated May 2026 to reflect current NZ pricing, the 5th edition of H1/AS1 energy efficiency requirements, and Schedule 1 consent settings for window replacement.

Double Glazing Cost Calculator NZ, 2026 Auckland Pricing

Most Auckland homeowners pay between $14,000 and $35,000 to double glaze a standard 3-bedroom home in 2026, frame material, glass spec, and full replacement vs retrofit are what move the number. Skip ahead to the calculator for an indicative figure on your own home, or read on for the breakdown that explains why quotes vary so much between suppliers.

This page covers what you’ll actually pay in the current NZ market, where the money goes, what the H1 Building Code requires in 2026, when you need consent, and what double glazing genuinely changes in your home. The calculator gives a starting figure, the rest of the page tells you what to do with it. Finance is available if you need it (18 months interest-free via Q Mastercard, covered further down).

Double Glazing vs Retrofit Double Glazing, What’s the Difference

Double glazed sliding doors in West Harbour, Auckland.

A full double glazing job replaces the entire window, frame and glass, with a factory-made Insulated Glass Unit (IGU). Two panes of glass, a spacer bar between them, and either still air or argon gas in the cavity. The frame is new, the seal is new, everything is new.

A retrofit keeps your existing frame and slots a new IGU into it. Cheaper, less disruptive, and faster, but only viable if your existing joinery is in good enough condition to hold the new unit and stay weathertight. Old timber frames that have rotted, swelled, or warped won’t take a retrofit. Aluminium frames designed for single glazing often lack the depth to hold a double glazed unit without modification.

In short: full replacement is the better long-term result and the more common choice for renovations. Retrofit is the practical option for older villas and bungalows where original joinery needs to stay (heritage rules, character covenants, or just budget).

What Drives the Cost of Double Glazing in NZ

Nine factors push a double glazing quote up or down. The same house can get quotes $10,000 apart depending on how these stack up.

• Size and number of windows, the bigger the glass area, the more you pay per opening
• Frame material, uPVC, aluminium (standard or thermally broken), or timber
• Glass spec, standard clear, Low-E coating, laminated, toughened, tinted
• Cavity fill, still air (cheaper) or argon gas (better insulation, more expensive)
• Removal of existing windows, clean removal of aluminium is faster; rotten timber or asbestos-era plaster surrounds slow things right down
• Access, single-storey is straightforward; two-storey or sloping site work usually means scaffolding
• Changes to the opening, like-for-like is cheaper; resizing, adding a new opening, or changing the configuration adds reframing and reinstatement costs
• Consent requirements, like-for-like joinery is generally Schedule 1 exempt; new openings or structural changes trigger building consent and council fees
• Manufacturing lead time, bespoke sizes and shapes cost more than standard runs

2026 Double Glazing Cost Ranges, 3-Bed Home Example

The numbers below are full-replacement ranges for a typical Auckland 3-bedroom home with 10–15 window openings. They include supply, installation, removal of the existing joinery, and labour, but exclude consent fees, scaffolding for difficult access, and any structural alterations.

Cost by frame material, uPVC, aluminium, timber

What Low-E coating and argon fill add to the price

The frame is the base cost. Glass spec and cavity fill stack on top of it:

• Low-E glass, adds roughly 10–20% to the glass cost; reflects winter heat back into the room and blocks summer solar gain
• Argon-filled cavity, adds another 10–15%; cuts conducted heat loss compared with still air
• Laminated or toughened glass, required for safety glazing locations (doors, low-level windows, wet areas) under NZS 4223
• Tinted or solar control glass, useful for west-facing rooms and large north-facing glazing in summer

For most Auckland homes the Low-E plus argon combination pays for itself over the lifetime of the windows. For a small unheated garage window, standard clear with still air is fine, don’t pay for performance you won’t notice.

Retrofit double glazing cost, NZ pricing

Retrofit double glazing typically runs $18,000–$28,000 for an average 100m² Auckland home in good condition. Cheaper than full replacement, but the result is capped by the existing frames. If your aluminium frames weren’t designed for double glazing, which is almost certain if they were originally fitted with single panes, the frame itself will still leak heat regardless of what glass sits inside it.

H1 Energy Code 2026, What’s Required for Auckland Windows

The Building Code’s H1 energy efficiency clause was updated in 2022 with a phased rollout, and the current schedule (5th edition, in force from May 2023 with subsequent updates) sets minimum construction R-values for windows based on six climate zones across New Zealand.

Auckland sits in Climate Zone 1, the warmest zone, so the minimum window R-value requirement here is lower than for Wellington, Christchurch, or the South Island. That doesn’t mean spec to the floor. The minimum is a code threshold, not a comfort threshold. Hitting code with cheap glass means you’ll meet the inspector but still feel cold draughts in winter.

For Auckland specifically, the practical recommendation for any renovation worth doing is:

• Double glazed IGU as a baseline (single glazing won’t meet H1 for any consented new opening)
• Low-E coating for any window that will see direct sun or face the prevailing weather
• Argon fill where the budget allows, especially for living areas and bedrooms
• Thermally broken aluminium frames if you’re already paying for a high-spec build; standard aluminium is acceptable for retrofit-equivalent work

The full H1/AS1 schedule and current zone-by-zone R-value tables are published by MBIE at building.govt.nz. Window suppliers will quote against the latest schedule as part of their standard documentation, ask for the R-value of the system, not just the glass.

Do You Need a Building Consent for Double Glazing?

Like-for-like window replacement is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act. If you’re swapping single-glazed windows for double-glazed units of the same size, in the same openings, with the same configuration, you can usually proceed without consent, provided the work is done by a Licensed Building Practitioner where Restricted Building Work applies.

You will need a building consent if you:

• Cut a new window opening into an exterior wall
• Materially change the size or position of an existing opening
• Replace a load-bearing lintel
• Make any change that affects the building’s structural performance or weathertightness in a way that goes beyond simple replacement

Resource consent is a separate question and can apply in character or heritage areas where window style affects the streetscape, Mt Eden, Ponsonby, Grey Lynn, Devonport, Parnell, and parts of Herne Bay all have overlays that can restrict what’s allowed visually, even when building consent isn’t required. Auckland Council’s planning maps are the authoritative source, check before you commit to a frame style or finish.

The current Schedule 1 exemptions list is maintained by MBIE at building.govt.nz.

What Double Glazing Actually Saves, Honest Numbers

Windows are typically the single biggest source of heat loss in an uninsulated or single-glazed home, often 30–40% of the total. Double glazing cuts that loss sharply. But the dollar savings on your power bill depend heavily on how you currently heat the house, what insulation you already have, and how you live in it.

EECA’s general guidance on whole-home insulation upgrades, ceilings, walls, floors, and glazing combined, points to real annual savings on heating costs. They don’t publish a single “savings figure” for double glazing alone, because in real homes the contribution depends on the rest of the building envelope. Anyone telling you a specific dollar payback is guessing unless they’ve modelled your home.

What’s reliable:

• Comfort, rooms hold heat overnight instead of bleeding it through the glass. Mornings are warmer. Heat pumps cycle less.
• Condensation, the inside pane stays closer to room temperature, so the daily winter mould-and-streak ritual largely disappears.
• Noise, measurable drop in road, neighbour, and aircraft noise. The bigger the air gap and the thicker the glass, the better.
• Resale, double glazing is now the expected baseline in Auckland renovations above $50,000. Single glazing reads as deferred maintenance.

Payback as a pure financial calculation is usually 10–20 years for a full replacement, shorter for a retrofit. Most homeowners don’t actually buy double glazing on payback maths. They buy it for the comfort difference, the noise reduction, and the fact that the next renovation, sale, or rental compliance check is going to require it anyway.

Healthy Homes and Double Glazing for Rentals

Double glazing isn’t a Healthy Homes requirement in itself. The Healthy Homes Standards cover heating, insulation, ventilation, moisture and drainage, and draught-stopping, but they don’t mandate window glazing type.

That said, single-glazed windows are usually the biggest source of condensation in a rental. Condensation is what drives mould complaints, Tenancy Tribunal cases, and the moisture and ventilation standard headaches landlords run into. Double glazing, or even retrofit double glazing on the worst-affected rooms, often does more for compliance than a second extractor fan ever will.

For landlords planning a between-tenancy upgrade, Superior Property Services handles maintenance, minor alterations, and Healthy Homes compliance work across Auckland, including coordinating glazing upgrades alongside heating and ventilation.

Tips to Reduce the Cost of Double Glazing

Not every window in a house needs the top spec. A few sensible trade-offs can drop a quote by 15–25% without hurting the result:

• Standard clear glass in low-priority rooms, garages, laundries, small bathrooms, where Low-E adds little
• Still-air cavity instead of argon in those same low-priority rooms
• Standard aluminium frames for retrofit-equivalent work; reserve thermally broken aluminium for new builds and full envelope renovations
• Like-for-like sizing wherever possible, resizing openings adds reframing, lining, and reinstatement cost
• Stage the work, start with the rooms that have the worst condensation or biggest single-glazed expanses (usually living areas and master bedroom), and do the rest in a second pass when budget allows

What’s almost never worth saving on: the seal quality of the IGU itself, the installer’s experience, and the flashings around the frame. A cheap window installed by someone unfamiliar with weathertight detailing will fail a lot faster than a mid-range window installed properly.

Double Glazing Cost Calculator

The calculator gives an indicative figure based on standard aluminium frames, clear glass, no argon, and a like-for-like replacement scope. Use it as a starting reference, not a quote. Real quotes vary based on site access, frame condition, and the specifics of your home.

Enter your details and you’ll be emailed the result. Tick the callback option and one of our team will follow up to talk through the numbers and what they mean for your project.

What this calculator includes: supply and delivery of standard aluminium-framed IGUs with clear glass and still-air cavity, removal of existing single-glazed windows, installation labour, and project management time. What it doesn’t include: consent or council fees, scaffolding for two-storey or difficult-access sites, structural alterations, repairs to existing framing or lining, GST on materials, hazardous-material testing (lead paint, asbestos), or architectural fees. For an accurate price for your specific home, book a free in-home consultation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Further Reading

1. House Renovation Auckland, full service overview
2. Cost of Recladding a House in NZ, relevant if windows are part of a wider weathertightness fix
3. Featured projects and client stories
4. Real client reviews

Need more information?

Take advantage of our FREE Complete Home Renovation Guide (48 pages). Whether you’re already renovating or still deciding, it’s not an easy process, this guide includes a free 100+ point checklist that helps you avoid the costly mistakes most homeowners only spot in hindsight.

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

WRITTEN BY SUPERIOR RENOVATIONS

Superior Renovations is one of the most recommended kitchen renovation and bathroom renovation companies in Auckland, and it comes down to our friendly approach, straightforward pricing, and transparency. When your Auckland home needs renovation or remodelling services, Superior Renovations is the team you can count on for high-quality workmanship, efficient progress, and cost-effective solutions.

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Quick answer: A 1970s house renovation in Auckland usually means opening up a boxy layout, replacing tired wiring, plumbing and single-glazed aluminium joinery, and checking for asbestos before anything comes out. A full renovation of this stock typically runs $80,000 to $160,000.

Drive through Pakuranga, Manurewa, Glendowie or Henderson and you’re looking at the same house over and over: low-set brick-and-tile, aluminium windows, a tiled roof, and a floor plan that shuts the kitchen away from everyone else. Auckland built tens of thousands of these homes through the 1970s and into the 80s. They were solid for their day. Fifty years on, they’re cold, chopped up, and running on services well past their use-by date.

The good news is that these houses renovate beautifully. The brick is usually a veneer, not structure, so the inside can be reworked far more freely than people expect. The catch is what you find once the linings come off. This guide walks through what you’re actually working with, what tends to hide behind the walls, where the money goes, and the upgrades that make the biggest difference to how one of these homes lives.

Brick and Tile house

What You’re Actually Working With in a 1970s Brick-and-Tile Home

Before you plan a single change, it helps to understand how these houses were put together. The construction is consistent enough across Auckland that most 70s and early-80s homes share the same handful of traits, and each one shapes what your renovation can and can’t do cheaply.

The Brick Is a Veneer, Not the Structure

This is the single most useful thing to know. On the vast majority of 1970s Auckland homes, the brick is a single skin sitting off a timber frame, with a cavity between the two. The frame carries the house; the brick keeps the weather out and gives it that face. It means most of your internal walls are ordinary timber partitions, and a surprising number of them aren’t load-bearing at all.

That’s why these homes suit open-plan so well. The wall boxing the kitchen off from the dining room is often just a partition you can take out, subject to a proper structural check. We’ve opened up plenty of them across Auckland where the wall looked like it was holding up the roof and turned out to be doing nothing but dividing two rooms. You still get a Licensed Building Practitioner and, where needed, an engineer to confirm it before anyone swings a hammer, but the potential is there in a way it rarely is in a solid-masonry home.

“The layout is where a 70s home changes the most. These houses were designed around separate little rooms, so people assume they’re stuck with it. Once you understand the brick is only a skin, the whole inside opens up. That’s the moment a client stops seeing a dark, dated house and starts seeing their actual home.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations

Slab-on-Grade, Aluminium Joinery and Low Ceilings

Most of this stock sits on a concrete slab-on-grade with integral footings rather than a suspended timber floor. That’s generally good news: no rotting piles, no bouncy floors, and a sound base to tile or polish. It does mean moving plumbing and drainage involves cutting the slab, which is doable but adds cost, so a layout that works with the existing drainage runs saves money.

The windows are almost always aluminium joinery that was never thermally broken, paired with single glazing. In winter these frames sweat and the rooms lose heat fast. Ceilings tend to sit around 2.4 metres, lower than the villas and bungalows a few suburbs over, which is worth remembering when you plan lighting and any raked or lifted ceiling feature.

💡 Quick tip: Before you fall in love with a new layout, get the drainage located. Keeping the kitchen sink, bathroom and laundry near the existing waste runs can save several thousand dollars in slab cutting and re-plumbing.

What’s Hiding Behind the Walls of an Older Auckland Home

Here’s the part most people underestimate. The surfaces of a 1970s home are easy to cost. It’s the services behind them, and one particular hazard, that decide whether your budget holds. On a house that hasn’t been touched in decades, assume the guts need work until proven otherwise.

Asbestos: Test First, Always

Any Auckland home built before 1 January 2000 may contain asbestos materials, and 1970s houses sit squarely in the highest-risk window. According to WorkSafe New Zealand, if there’s any doubt about a material, the law requires you to treat it as asbestos until a lab confirms otherwise. In homes of this era it commonly turns up in textured “popcorn” ceilings, vinyl floor tiles and their backing, some wall linings, and eaves and soffit sheeting.

The rule is simple and non-negotiable: don’t disturb it. Testing is a job for a competent, accredited assessor, and removal of anything significant is a job for a licensed asbestos removalist, not a general builder and definitely not a weekend of DIY. A proper renovator identifies and manages this before demolition starts, and factors testing into the plan from day one. It’s the one line in a 70s renovation you never gamble on.

Important note: Asbestos identification, handling and removal are governed by the Health and Safety at Work (Asbestos) Regulations 2016. Always have suspect materials assessed by an accredited professional before any renovation work begins, and refer removal to a licensed removalist.

Wiring, Plumbing and the Services You Can’t See

Fifty-year-old electrics are usually the next surprise. Many of these homes still run the original wiring with few or no RCDs on the switchboard, undersized for the way we use power now. A full or partial rewire is common in a whole-house renovation, and because it’s electrical work it needs a registered electrician and sign-off.

Plumbing tells a similar story. Galvanised steel supply lines from the 70s corrode from the inside, narrowing and discolouring the water, and copper of the same age is often near the end of its run. If the walls are open anyway, replacing tired pipework is far cheaper to do now than to retrofit later. The same logic applies to insulation: a 70s home typically has little to none in the walls, and while the linings are off is the one moment it’s genuinely affordable to bring it up to standard. We cover the detail in our guide to insulating your home during a renovation, including the current Building Code H1 minimums for Auckland.

None of this is glamorous, and none of it shows in the finished photos. It’s also exactly why a fixed-price quote on this kind of house should be built after a proper look at the services, not before. If you want to understand where the big-ticket items sit generally, our breakdown of renovation cost per square metre in Auckland is a useful reality check.

Where a 1970s Home Really Transforms

Once the unseen work is sorted, the changes people actually see are where a 70s brick-and-tile home earns its keep. Three moves do most of the heavy lifting.

Opening Up the Compartmentalised Layout

The defining flaw of this era is the closed floor plan: a galley kitchen walled off from a formal lounge and a separate dining room, all fighting over limited light. Removing the right partition, or two, turns that into a single connected living space where the kitchen looks out over the family and the back garden. It’s the change clients react to most.

A good example is a 40-year-old family home in Māngere we reworked into open-plan living, connecting the kitchen, dining and lounge that had been shut off from one another. It’s the same bones as thousands of South and East Auckland homes, and the same transformation is on the table for most of them. If you’re weighing this up, our open-plan wall removal guide and our overview of the real risks in structural changes are worth reading before you commit to a layout.

“With these homes I always start with how the family moves through the space, not the finishes. Take one wall out and suddenly the cook isn’t isolated, the light travels, and a house that felt small feels generous. The footprint hasn’t changed at all. The way it lives has completely.”
— Cici Zuo, Certified Designer (NZ Dip. Interior Design), Superior Renovations

Bringing the Kitchen and Bathrooms Into This Decade

The original kitchen and bathrooms in a 70s home are almost always the first things to go, and they’re where day-to-day life improves most. A new kitchen that opens to the living area, and bathrooms taken back to the studs and re-waterproofed to current standards, reset the whole feel of the house. There’s real scope here to replace a closed-off 70s kitchen with an open, modern one, and to fully gut a tired brick-and-tile bathroom back to the studs rather than tiling over old problems.

Because the slab and drainage are already there, keeping wet areas roughly where they are keeps costs sensible. Move everything and you’re cutting concrete; work with the existing runs and the budget stretches further into the finishes you’ll actually notice.

Warmth: Glazing, Insulation and Heating

A 70s home with single glazing and bare walls is cold, and Aucklanders feel it most from June through August. Retrofit double glazing into the existing aluminium frames, or replacing the joinery outright, cuts the condensation and the heat loss dramatically. Paired with wall and ceiling insulation while the linings are open, it changes the house from something you heat constantly to something that holds its warmth. Our take on whether retrofit double glazing is worth it in Auckland runs through the options and the trade-offs.

💡 Quick tip: Sequence the warmth work in the right order. Insulation and glazing go in while walls and linings are open and cheap to reach. Retrofitting either after the house is buttoned up costs far more, so decide early rather than adding it later.

What a 1970s House Renovation Costs in Auckland

Cost depends entirely on scope, condition and finish, and a slab-on-grade brick-and-tile home is more predictable than most once the services are assessed. As a starting frame, a full renovation of one of these homes typically lands between $80,000 and $160,000, with larger and two-storey homes above that. The figures below come from our live pricing and are indicative starting points; your fixed-price quote will confirm exact scope and GST.

The Mellons Bay full-home renovation we completed shows how the scope adds up in practice: a new kitchen and four bathrooms, double glazing throughout, a re-roof, a full rewire and a repaint, delivered end to end in around six months. Not every 70s home needs all of that, but it’s a fair picture of what “the works” involves. You can see the range of jobs on our Mellons Bay project page, and run your own numbers through our renovation cost calculators.

Do You Need Consent for a 1970s Renovation?

Cosmetic work like new kitchens, linings, flooring and painting generally doesn’t need a building consent. The moment you touch structure, though, the picture changes. Removing or altering a load-bearing wall, most plumbing and drainage changes, and adding or relocating certain electrical work are Restricted Building Work and typically require a building consent and a Licensed Building Practitioner. Consent timeframes in Auckland usually add several weeks to the front of a project.

The honest answer for any specific job is to confirm it, not guess. We handle consents in-house as part of the design-to-build process, and we’d always recommend checking your particular scope with Auckland Council or a Licensed Building Practitioner before you lock in a plan. This is exactly the kind of house where taking a dated 1970s home back to the framing and rebuilding it properly pays off, because the planning is done once, up front, rather than in pieces.

How Long It Takes

A full renovation of a three-bedroom brick-and-tile home generally runs three to six months on site, with a typical three-bed, two-bathroom job around 12 to 16 weeks once design is finalised and materials are ordered. Add four to eight weeks at the front if the work needs council consent. Design, material selection and manufacturing happen before demolition, so the on-site clock is shorter than the whole project.

Is a 1970s Home Worth Renovating?

For most Auckland owners, yes. The bones are sound, the sections are often generous, and the locations, through the eastern bays, the North Shore and the south, are established and well-served. You’re improving a house you already own in a suburb you already like, usually for a good deal less than buying the equivalent renovated home down the road.

The case gets weaker only where the scope tips toward a near-rebuild, or where the section would genuinely suit something new. If you’re on that line, it’s worth pricing both paths properly before deciding. Either way, the starting point is the same: a proper look at the house, the services and the layout, so the plan is built on what’s actually there rather than what’s assumed.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ See how Auckland renovation costs break down per square metre
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Frequently Asked Questions

Further Resources for your 1970s home renovation

1. Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
2. Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Take advantage of our FREE Complete Home Renovation Guide (48 pages), whether you’re already renovating or in the process of deciding to renovate, it’s not an easy process, this guide which includes a free 100+ point check list – will help you avoid costly mistakes.

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

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Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

1. WorkSafe New Zealand — Asbestos in the home
2. WorkSafe New Zealand — Where asbestos can be found
3. Superior Renovations — Renovation costs and timelines (FAQ)

Renovate or Rebuild? The Real Cost and Consent Trade-Off for Auckland Homes

Quick answer: Whether to renovate or rebuild in Auckland comes down to totals, not rates — renovation runs $2,000–$4,500 per m² on only the areas needing work, while a rebuild pays for every square metre plus demolition, consents and a year of rent.

Right now, Auckland Council’s public register shows additions and alterations being consented every week across Grey Lynn, Herne Bay, Mt Eden, Ponsonby and Devonport — the exact suburbs where owners most often assume their only options are a rebuild or a sale. They’re not. Renovation remains the most common path for character homes in Auckland’s heritage suburbs, and in many cases it’s the only path the Unitary Plan will actually let you take.

We’ve completed more than 1,000 renovation projects across Auckland since 2018 — around $45.5 million of finished work. That dataset tells us something the generic pros-and-cons articles can’t: the per-square-metre rates for renovating and rebuilding have converged, but the total project costs haven’t. This guide walks through the real numbers, the consent rules that quietly decide the question for you, and an honest framework for when each option wins.

What Renovating Actually Costs vs What Rebuilding Actually Costs

Here’s the number that surprises most homeowners: per square metre, the gap between renovating and building new is smaller than you’d think. The problem is that per-metre rates hide the three costs that only apply to a rebuild.

Renovation costs from our completed Auckland projects

Across our completed projects, full home renovations in Auckland run $2,000–$4,500 per square metre, with mid-range whole-house renovations landing between $80,000 and $160,000. Larger character-home renovations — the villa or bungalow taken back to the framing, re-plumbed, rewired, insulated and reconfigured — commonly land between $200,000 and $500,000 depending on scope and finish level. These are ranges from completed jobs, not quotes; every home prices differently once we’ve seen what’s behind the GIB.

The renovation advantage isn’t the rate. It’s that you don’t have to renovate all of it. A 220m² Remuera home might only need $180,000 of work concentrated in the kitchen, bathrooms and living areas — the other 120m² of sound bedrooms stays untouched. A rebuild charges you for every square metre whether it needed replacing or not.

New build costs in 2026

According to Trade Me Property’s April 2026 building cost guide, a basic new build starts around $2,500 per square metre, the average sits at $3,000–$4,500, and premium homes exceed $5,000. MoneyHub’s analysis of Stats NZ consent data puts the national average at $3,245 per square metre — and notes that external items like driveways, landscaping, earthworks and retaining can add 30–50% on top. Auckland sits at the expensive end of every one of those ranges.

The three costs only a rebuild carries

Demolition, full-footprint pricing, and somewhere to live. Demolishing a standard Auckland home costs roughly $8,000–$32,000 — and if your house went up before 2000, budget for asbestos removal on top, which can run from a few hundred dollars to $15,000 or more depending on what’s found. Then there’s accommodation: a knockdown-rebuild typically means 12+ months in a rental while you keep paying your existing mortgage. At Auckland rents, that’s comfortably tens of thousands of dollars that never touch the house itself.

💡 Quick tip: Before comparing quotes, work out how many square metres actually need work. Owners who count “the whole house” often find only 50–60% of the floor area genuinely needs touching — which changes the renovate-vs-rebuild maths completely.

Want to test your own numbers first? You can run your figures through our renovation cost calculators before you talk to anyone.

The Consent Trade-Off: Where the Council Quietly Makes the Decision for You

Cost is only half the question. In large parts of Auckland, the consent pathway decides whether rebuilding is even realistic.

Renovating: usually building consent only

Most interior renovations — kitchens, bathrooms, reconfigured layouts within the existing envelope — need a building consent from Auckland Council, and some like-for-like work doesn’t even need that. Council must process a complete building consent application within 20 working days under the Building Act, per MBIE’s Building Performance guidance. It’s paperwork, but it’s predictable paperwork.

Rebuilding: demolition consent, and in character suburbs, a much harder gate

A knockdown-rebuild needs consent to demolish, consent to build, and — here’s the part that catches people — resource consent if your home sits in a Special Character Area. Under the Auckland Unitary Plan’s D18 Special Character Areas Overlay, total demolition — or substantial demolition exceeding 30% of wall elevations and roof area — is a restricted discretionary activity requiring resource consent on sites subject to the demolition control. That control covers the entire Isthmus A area and mapped sites across the other special character areas, and where it applies, council assesses your villa’s contribution to the streetscape before deciding whether it can come down at all.

If your villa or bungalow sits inside a Special Character Area — and much of the pre-1940 housing stock in Grey Lynn, Ponsonby, Mt Eden, Herne Bay and Devonport does — the honest starting assumption is that demolition consent will be slow, expensive and uncertain, while a sympathetic renovation is the path the plan is designed to approve. Our group’s architectural studio has written a detailed guide to Auckland’s heritage and special character overlays if you want the full rulebook.

And renovation activity in these suburbs isn’t theoretical. Auckland Council’s register of recent resource consent applications — updated weekly, covering the past 26 weeks — consistently shows additions and alterations to existing homes being lodged across the character suburbs. One note of honesty: lodgements aren’t approvals, and a resource consent isn’t a building consent. But the pattern is clear enough — owners in Auckland’s most protected suburbs are choosing to renovate, and the consenting system is set up to let them.

“The first thing I check isn’t the kitchen or the bathrooms — it’s whether the fundamentals are right. If the entrance works, the living areas get sun, and the framing is sound, that home has earned the right to stay. You can fix a dated interior. You can’t buy back a demolished villa.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations

Garage Conversion Auckland

💡 Quick tip: Check whether your property sits in a Special Character Area before you spend a dollar on concept designs — Auckland Council’s GeoMaps shows the overlay for free, and it changes which options are actually on the table.

When to Renovate or Rebuild: An Honest Framework From 1,000+ Projects

We renovate homes for a living, so you’d expect us to tell you to renovate. We won’t — not every time. After a thousand-plus projects, the pattern is clear enough to state as a framework.

Renovation wins when

The structure is sound, you’re keeping most of the footprint, and character or location is part of the value. That covers the classic Auckland cases: the Grey Lynn villa with good bones and a terrible 1980s kitchen; the Mt Eden bungalow that needs insulation, rewiring and an opened-up living area; the 1970s brick-and-tile in Henderson where the layout is wrong but the shell is honest. Renovation also wins when you need to stay in the home — plenty of our clients live in through staged work, the way a family in St Heliers did during their four-level renovation. And it wins financially when less than about two-thirds of the floor area needs touching.

Rebuilding wins when

The structure itself is the problem. Failed foundations, widespread untreated framing rot, a monolithic-clad leaky home from the 1994–2004 era where the damage has gone past what recladding and targeted repair can economically fix, or a site where the existing house blocks the only good use of the land. It can also win when you’d be replacing more than 80–90% of the home anyway — at that point you’re paying renovation complexity for new-build scope, which is the worst of both. If that’s your situation, you’ll need an architect and a new-build contract, and the right move is a feasibility assessment before anything else — not a renovation quote from us, and not a rebuild sales pitch from anyone.

The trap in the middle

The expensive mistake isn’t picking the wrong side — it’s drifting between them. A renovation scoped optimistically, hit by surprises behind the cladding, stretched by mid-project changes of mind, can quietly climb to new-build money without delivering a new-build result. The defence is boring and effective: invasive pre-purchase-style inspection before you commit, a fixed scope, and a contingency you don’t touch for upgrades.

“I tell clients to decide their walk-away number before we open a single wall. If the invasive inspection pushes the renovation past that number, rebuilding or selling deserves a genuine look — deciding that at the start costs nothing, deciding it halfway through costs tens of thousands.”
— Cici Zou, Designer (NZ Dip. Interior Design, Certified Designer), Superior Renovations

Bathroom Designs

Important note: Cost ranges in this article come from our completed projects and published NZ sources. They’re a planning guide, not a quote — site conditions, scope and finish level move every number, in both directions.

The Character Home Question: What a Rebuild Can Never Give Back

Sound familiar? You love the street, the neighbours, the school zone — it’s the house that doesn’t work. That’s the situation where the renovate-or-rebuild question gets emotional, and where the maths needs one more input: the things you can’t rebuild.

Character has a market value, not just a sentimental one

Native timber floors, high studs, original joinery, a villa frontage on a tree-lined Ponsonby street — replicating those features in a new build is either impossible or eye-wateringly expensive. When we renovated a historic Epsom bungalow, the brief was exactly this balance: modern kitchen and bathrooms inside a character shell the owners had no intention of losing. You can see how that lands in practice in our historic Epsom bungalow renovation.

We’ve also had clients run the full renovate-or-go question with us. A Hillsborough family weighing whether to renovate or sell put the numbers side by side and chose a full home renovation in Hillsborough — kitchen, bathroom, the lot — rather than paying agent’s fees, moving costs and a premium for someone else’s finished house. The same logic applies against a rebuild: every dollar that doesn’t go into demolition, rent and full-footprint construction is a dollar that goes into the parts of the home you actually live in.

💡 Quick tip: Before pricing anything, pull recent sale prices for renovated homes on your own street from homes.co.nz — that’s your realistic value ceiling, and it should shape your renovation budget before any design work starts.

The overcapitalisation guardrail

The honest limit runs the other way too. If your renovation budget pushes the total invested well past what comparable homes on your street sell for, you’re gifting money to the next owner. A useful rule: keep the renovation spend inside 10–20% of the home’s current value unless you’re planning to stay 10+ years — at which point you’re buying lifestyle, and that’s a legitimate purchase. This is where our design-and-build approach to major home renovations starts every project with a feasibility conversation rather than a quote — at our Wairau Valley showroom (16B Link Drive) or in your home: scope, value ceiling and consent pathway first, drawings second.

Have you been putting the decision off because both paths feel enormous? That’s normal. The fix isn’t more browsing — it’s real numbers for your specific house.

Renovate or Rebuild? Making the Call on Your Own Home

So, should you renovate or rebuild? For most structurally sound Auckland homes — and especially anything pre-1940 in a character suburb — renovation delivers the result at a genuinely lower total cost, through a faster and more predictable consent path, without a year in a rental. Rebuilding earns its place when the structure has failed or you’d be replacing nearly everything anyway. The one unforgivable move is deciding on gut feel: get the invasive inspection, check the overlay, set the walk-away number, then commit properly to whichever side wins.

We’ve put 1,000+ Auckland projects’ worth of that thinking into a free feasibility process — bring us the house, we’ll bring the numbers.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ See how we manage major renovations from design through to build
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Further Resources for your home renovation

1. Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
2. Real client stories from Auckland

Need more information?

Take advantage of our FREE Complete Home Renovation Guide (48 pages), whether you’re already renovating or in the process of deciding to renovate, it’s not an easy process, this guide which includes a free 100+ point check list – will help you avoid costly mistakes.

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

1. Trade Me Property — Building cost per square metre in NZ (2026)
2. MoneyHub NZ — What’s the Average Building Cost Per Square Metre?
3. Tobin Group — Cost to demolish a house, Auckland
4. Auckland Unitary Plan — D18 Special Character Areas Overlay (Residential and Business)
5. Auckland Council — Recent resource consent applications
6. MBIE Building Performance — Building consent process

How Much Does It Cost to Build a Garage in NZ? 2026 Auckland Calculator & Guide

Quick answer: Building a new garage in Auckland in 2026 costs roughly $25,000–$40,000 for a single, $40,000–$60,000 for a standard double, and $80,000–$120,000+ for a fully lined garage-and-sleepout combo. Use the calculator below for a personalised estimate, then read on for what actually moves the price.

If you’re pricing a new garage for your Auckland home, the spread you’ll see online is wide — and a lot of it is out of date. The figures we used on this page back in 2020 still surface in search results, but they don’t match what we’re quoting today. Building costs have moved. So have the consent rules — twice in the last eighteen months. And the cheapest option (a kitset) sits at a completely different end of the budget from the most popular one (an attached garage built as part of an extension). Already have a garage you’d rather repurpose? A garage conversion turns existing space into a bedroom, office or rental without the cost of building new.

This page gives you the calculator, the 2026 numbers, and the regulatory picture in one place. For the materials, foundation and ROI deep-dive, see our companion read: Cost to build a new garage in Auckland — the full breakdown.

Jump straight to the New Garage Cost Calculator

What does it actually cost to build a garage in Auckland in 2026?

Here are the ranges we’re seeing in the Auckland market this year. These are full-build figures — design, consent, foundation, framing, cladding, roof, doors, basic electrical, and project management. Not kitset prices, and not bare-shell prices either.

Auckland sits at the top end of the national range. Labour rates here run roughly 10–20% above the rest of the country, materials carry an Auckland delivery premium, and consent processing is slower and dearer than in smaller council areas. Sites with sloping ground, reactive clay, or tight vehicle access push the foundation and excavation cost up before a single piece of framing goes in.

💡 Quick tip: When you compare quotes, check whether the figure is “supply only”, “supply and install”, or “turnkey including consent”. A $35,000 quote can become $55,000 once you add the slab, consent, and connection to power — and most kitset sellers don’t include any of those.

Basic, mid-range or high-end: what each budget buys for a double garage

Two double garages can sit $40,000 apart and both be “finished”. The difference is spec, not size. Here’s roughly what a Auckland double looks like at three budget levels, so you know which conversation you’re actually having before the quotes arrive.

Basic double — around $40,000–$48,000

A lock-up-and-leave structure. Standard slab on a flat, prepared pad, timber framing, pre-coated steel or aluminium cladding, a Colorsteel roof, a roller or manual sectional door, one light and a power point. No lining, no insulation. This is the right call for pure vehicle and storage use where the look isn’t critical and you’re never planning to spend real time in there.

Mid-range double — around $50,000–$65,000

Where most of our clients land. Automated sectional doors, insulation, GIB lining on the walls, LED lighting split across a couple of circuits, several power points, and cladding chosen to match or sit deliberately against the house. Warm enough and tidy enough to use as a workshop, gym, or overflow space without it feeling like a shed.

High-end double — around $70,000–$100,000+

A finished room that happens to hold cars. Premium doors, full insulation and lining, an epoxy or polished concrete floor, a sub-board with workshop-grade power, generous lighting, and cladding and roofing matched to the house so it reads as part of the property. Once you add an office nook, gym fit-out, or the first hint of plumbing, you’ve crossed into the habitable budget and the numbers climb again.

💡 Quick tip: The single most expensive way to build a garage is to under-spec it now and upgrade later. Running extra circuits, insulating, and pouring a thicker slab during the original build costs a fraction of retrofitting them into a finished structure.

Three real-world paths to a new garage — and what each one costs

Most of the confusion around garage pricing comes down to one thing: three completely different builds all get called “a new garage”. They cost different amounts, take different timeframes, and pull in different trades. Here’s how to tell them apart before you ask anyone for a quote.

1. Kitset garage — cheapest, most limited

You buy a flat-packed steel or aluminium structure from a retailer like Versatile or Totalspan. Sticker price for a single is around $4,000–$10,000; a double sits at $8,000–$15,000. Sounds great until you cost in the bits the kit doesn’t include: a concrete slab ($3,300–$3,900 for a standard 30m² pad on a prepared, flat gravel base in Auckland), site preparation, consent if you’re over the exemption thresholds (more on that below), connection to power, and either an installer’s labour or your own weekends.

Stack those add-ons on, and a kitset double realistically lands between $20,000 and $30,000 by the time it’s standing on a slab with a working door. It’s a sensible option for storage-only spaces on flat ground where the finish isn’t the point.

2. Site-built detached garage — the standard option

This is what most people picture when they think “new garage”. It’s framed, clad, and roofed on your section, built to either match your house or sit as a deliberate contrast. Materials, doors, lining, and door automation are all choices you make — which is why the range is wide. A site-built single in Auckland is roughly $25,000–$40,000 turnkey; a double sits at $40,000–$60,000 for a standard finish and $60,000–$80,000+ once you’re insulating, lining, and adding circuits.

A site-built garage gives you a structure that genuinely looks like part of the property, which matters at resale. homes.co.nz data on Auckland sales consistently shows properties with secure off-street parking holding their own against, or ahead of, their no-garage neighbours — and in central suburbs the gap widens. A dedicated park in Ponsonby or Herne Bay carries real weight.

3. Attached garage as part of a house extension — our most common garage job

Roughly 60% of the new-garage enquiries we get aren’t standalone garage jobs at all. They’re extension projects where the garage forms part of a wider footprint change — a garage with a master bedroom above, a garage extending off the existing kitchen wall, or a double replacing a single and tying into a new utility room. These start around $50,000 for the garage portion and run to $100,000+ once you factor in the new foundation tied to the existing house, weatherproofing the junction between old and new, and the consent work an extension always needs.

The upside is that you only do the disruption once. Instead of building a detached garage now and renovating the house in five years, you change the home’s footprint and finish in a single project. If your project is closer to “extension with a garage” than “garage on its own”, it’s worth looking at it as a wider extension from the start — and our house extension cost calculator is the right tool for that scope.

“We’ve had clients in Albany and Glendowie start the conversation asking for a detached garage and finish it building an attached double with a sleepout above. The reason isn’t upsell — it’s that once you’re spending $40,000 on a separate structure, an extra $30–40k turns it into useable family space for the next ten years. The maths shifts pretty fast when you draw it on paper.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations

Do you need consent for a garage in NZ? What changed in 2020, 2025 and 2026

This is the part most online guides get wrong. The old rule everyone quotes — “you need consent for anything over 10 square metres” — was superseded in August 2020 when Schedule 1 of the Building Act was updated. Then the boundary rules changed again in October 2025, and a brand-new granny flat exemption started on 15 January 2026. If a guide still cites only the 10m² threshold and the “own height” setback rule, it hasn’t been refreshed in years.

Here’s where the rules actually sit in 2026, drawn from MBIE’s exempt building work guidance and Auckland Council’s requirements. When you’re not sure, MBIE and Auckland Council run a free “Can I build it?” checker for garages that walks you through it.

Detached single-storey buildings (the garage path)

A detached single-storey building — including a fully enclosed garage — can be built without a building consent in two main ways:

• Up to 10m², no LBP needed — genuinely small structures only. A standard single garage is about 21m², so this rarely covers a real garage.
• Between 10m² and 30m², if the design and construction are carried out or supervised by a Licensed Building Practitioner — this is the post-2020 change. It lets a compact detached garage be built without a building consent, as long as an LBP signs off the design and supervises the work. There’s also a parallel route for lightweight timber or steel structures built to Acceptable Solution B1/AS1, which in some cases can be done without a professional.

There’s a catch: the structure can’t include sanitary facilities, cooking facilities, or a potable water supply. Pure garage use — vehicle storage, workshop, hobby space — is fine. The moment you add a toilet or a kitchen, it becomes a different building and the exemption falls away.

The boundary setback rule changed in October 2025

This is the bit even recent guides get wrong. The old rule said a detached building had to sit at least as far from the boundary as it was tall — the “own height” rule. That was scrapped on 23 October 2025. Now a structure under 10m² can be built right up to the boundary, and a 10–30m² building needs to be set back just one metre from any boundary or other building. For tighter Auckland sections — think the older quarter-acre splits through West Auckland and the Shore — that change quietly makes a compliant detached garage possible where it wasn’t before.

Carports are treated more generously

Carports — open-sided shelters, not fully enclosed garages — have their own, more generous exemption rules than enclosed garages. If you only need vehicle cover and don’t need walls, a carport gets you under the consent rules with far more room to move. The exact size allowance and conditions are set out in MBIE’s exempt building work guidance, so confirm your design against that before you build.

The 2026 granny flat exemption (Schedule 1A)

This is the newest change, and the one that matters most for garage-with-sleepout plans. From 15 January 2026, an eligible standalone dwelling up to 70m² can be built without a building consent under the granny flat exemption, provided it meets a defined set of design, siting, and trade-qualification rules and uses licensed professionals. If your “garage” is really a garage-plus-sleepout-plus-bathroom of around 60–70m², the cleaner legal route is often this exemption rather than trying to wedge it under the garage rules. It costs more than a plain garage, but the consent path is faster.

Attached garages and anything you build onto the house

An attached garage almost always needs a building consent. You’re altering the primary structure of the home — adding a foundation, changing the roofline, breaking through an exterior wall, often shifting drainage. There’s no Schedule 1 exemption for that. Auckland Council consent fees for a residential extension typically run $3,000–$8,000, with processing of 4–8 weeks for a straightforward application. Add 6–10 weeks before that for architectural drawings and engineering, depending on complexity.

Important note: Even when work doesn’t need consent, it must still comply with the Building Code and your Auckland Council district plan — site coverage, setbacks and height-to-boundary rules all still apply. Building without a required consent carries fines up to $200,000 under the Building Act 2004, plus daily penalties for ongoing offences. If you’re unsure, request a free feasibility report before you commit to a build path.

For consent-related garage projects, we work with Sonder Architecture, our architectural partner. Sonder pulls the property file from Auckland Council, runs the feasibility study, and produces the drawings needed for consent submission. If you want to read the current exemption picture in full, their guide on what you can build without consent in NZ covers every threshold. Same process we run for every extension and conversion job.

What actually pushes a garage cost up (and what barely matters)

The line items that move a quote aren’t always the ones homeowners expect. Door brand and roof colour barely shift the bottom line. Site conditions, lining choices, and the consent path absolutely do.

Foundation and site preparation

A flat, accessible site with good ground is the cheapest scenario — a standard 30m² concrete slab in Auckland runs roughly $3,300–$3,900 for materials and labour on a prepared gravel pad. Add reactive clay, a sloping section, or a driveway the concrete truck can’t reach, and that figure can double or triple. We had a job in Titirangi last year where the slope meant a chunk of retaining and levelling had to happen before the slab could even be poured — the groundworks cost more than the garage shell. Older villas through Grey Lynn, Ponsonby, and Mt Eden often sit on sites that need that kind of work first.

Lining, insulation, and electrical fit-out

An unlined garage with a single light and one power point is the bottom of the range. Add insulation (around $500–$1,500 for a single, more for a double), GIB lining ($1,500–$3,500 fitted), LED lighting on multiple circuits, and a few power points or a sub-board, and you’re easily $5,000–$10,000 past the bare-shell quote. Worth doing if the space will see real use — workshops, gyms, home offices — and worth skipping for pure storage.

Door choice

Sectional doors with automation are standard now, sitting at $1,800–$3,500 supplied and installed for a single. Roller doors are cheaper at around $1,200–$2,000. Premium aluminium-panel or timber-look doors push past $5,000 for a single and $8,000 for a double. The difference between a $2,000 door and a $5,000 door is cosmetic — they all open and close the same way.

Habitable add-ons (the big multiplier)

The moment plumbing enters the brief, the cost scales. A basic bathroom in a garage-sleepout combo adds $20,000–$25,000 once you account for drainage runs, waterproofing and ventilation. A kitchenette adds $8,000–$15,000. Heating, ventilation, and double glazing for genuine year-round use add $5,000–$10,000. That’s why a garage with a sleepout sits at $80,000+ rather than $50,000 — you’re effectively building a small dwelling.

“The single most useful thing a client can do before getting quotes is decide whether the garage is for storage or for living. The trades involved, the materials we spec, the consent path, the budget — all of it changes. Trying to keep both options open ends up costing more, because we have to build to the higher standard just in case.”
— Alison Yu, Designer, Superior Renovations

How Superior Renovations handles a new garage project

New garages aren’t the typical kitchen or bathroom job, but they sit naturally in our work for one reason — most Auckland garage builds turn into extension projects, and extensions are our wheelhouse. Here’s the process when a garage enquiry comes through.

Your enquiry comes to us first. We talk through what you’re after — storage, workshop, a second vehicle, an eventual sleepout — and the constraints of your section. If the project needs consent, we introduce you by email to Sonder Architecture straight away. Sonder requests your property file from Auckland Council, runs an on-site feasibility study, and tells you what’s actually possible under your zoning and district plan. That step alone saves clients from paying for designs that can’t be consented.

If the project stacks up, Sonder produces concept drawings and quotes the full architectural set. Once those are done, our renovation consultant visits the site, measures up, runs through the design and material options with you, and produces a fixed-price proposal with full specifications — no estimates, no “to be confirmed” lines. Auckland Council consent goes in, and we start once it’s granted.

For garages with a habitable area — sleepout, office, gym, or self-contained granny flat — our Design Studio handles the interior. Joinery, lining, lighting and material selection all happen at our Wairau Valley showroom (16B Link Drive) so you can see the finishes in person before you sign off.

If you’d rather spread the cost, our 18-month interest-free option through Q Mastercard is set out on the finance options page.

New Garage Cost Calculator NZ

This calculator (updated for 2026 Auckland pricing) gives you a rough estimate from the details you enter. It’s a starting point, not a quote — every section, soil profile, and design choice has cost implications the calculator can’t see.

— Please note —

For every project there are many cost factors that affect the accuracy of this calculator. Costs are averages, designed to give you an indication only. Always get professional advice and a written quote from a project manager before committing to any figure. Don’t use this calculator as the basis for finance applications or budget commitments — only for research. Rates and material costs vary across regions and over time.

Once you’ve generated an estimate and completed the form, you’ll receive a rough figure by email. We’ll follow up to talk through your numbers, answer questions, and arrange a free in-home consultation if you’d like to take it further.

Ready to talk to someone about your garage project?

If you’ve used the calculator and the figures are in the right ballpark, the next step is a free in-home consultation. We’ll come to you, look at the section, talk through the design and consent path, and follow up with a written fixed-price quote.

➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
➡ See how an attached garage fits into a full extension project
➡ Request a free feasibility report for your project

Frequently Asked Questions about Building a New Garage in NZ

Further Resources for your new garage project

1. Read our full Cost to build a new garage in Auckland guide for the deep-dive on materials, foundation choices, and ROI.
2. Featured projects and case studies — see specifications and photos of completed jobs.
3. Real client stories from Auckland homeowners we’ve worked with.
4. Already have a garage? See our garage conversion cost calculator for the cost of turning an existing garage into living space.

Need more information?

Take advantage of our FREE Complete Home Renovation Guide (48 pages), whether you’re already renovating or in the process of deciding to renovate, it’s not an easy process, this guide which includes a free 100+ point check list – will help you avoid costly mistakes.

Download Free Renovation Guide (PDF)

Have you been putting off getting renovations done?

We have partnered with Q Mastercard ® to provide you an 18 Month Interest-Free Payment Option, you can enjoy your new home now and stress less.

Learn More about Interest-Free Payment Options*

*Lending criteria, fees, terms and conditions apply. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard International Incorporated.

Still have questions unanswered?

Book a no-obligation consultation with the team at Superior Renovations, we’d love to meet you to discuss your renovation ideas!

References

1. Building Performance (MBIE) — Single-storey detached buildings not exceeding 30m² (LBP exemption)
2. Building Performance (MBIE) — Detached buildings 10–30m² using lightweight material (B1/AS1)
3. Beehive.govt.nz — Setback rule changes for detached buildings up to 30m² (October 2025)
4. Can I build it? — Garage building consent checker (MBIE)
5. homes.co.nz — Auckland property values and sales data

无论是为了自住的舒适度，还是为了提升房产价值，房屋翻新都是奥克兰业主最常见、也最值得认真规划的投资之一。装修不只是让房子内外更美观——更重要的是提升功能性，让日常生活更便捷。

但装修涉及大量技术环节，远不像调整家具摆放那么简单。无论您计划扩建房屋，还是只想对室内做一些改动，提前了解真实的费用区间，是整个项目最关键的第一步。这篇指南会为您拆解奥克兰房屋装修的各项费用——从每平方米单价、分项费用表，到扩建成本和如何选对装修公司。

想了解装修贷款？

• 来自专业金融公司 Loan Market 的 Linda 为您讲解装修贷款方案
• 奥克兰装修贷款指南

很多人以为装修费用主要取决于房间或空间的大小，但事实并非如此。在奥克兰，装修费用更多取决于风格选择、布局改动、固定家具以及装修材料的档次。

砖房翻新前后对比（新西兰）——一幢位于 West Harbour 的砖房外部翻新案例，包括：屋顶粉刷、新混凝土车道、墙砖粉刷、新雨水管、整屋升级双层玻璃窗、新电动院门、全外观维修及外墙隔板粉刷。

本文目录

• 1. 奥克兰业主为什么选择翻新？
• 2. 在奥克兰，装修费用如何确定？
• 3. 奥克兰房屋扩建成本
• 4. 每平方米的装修费用
• 5. 房屋装修分项均价表（厨房、浴室、屋顶等）
• 6. 装修开始前的准备工作
• 7. 如何选择合适的装修公司
• 8. 免费装修费用计算器

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体验家居改造的艺术，选择 Superior Renovations！我们是奥克兰首屈一指的浴室、厨房及全屋装修专家。从概念设计到完工，我们的团队确保每个细节都完美无缺。扫描二维码，在小红书上关注我们，获取最新项目、装修技巧和灵感。

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想开始您的装修之旅吗？通过微信与 Superior Renovations 联系，享受便捷、个性化的中文服务。立即扫描，提问、获取专家建议，踏出家居改造的第一步！

1. 奥克兰业主为什么选择翻新？

奥克兰的房屋翻新需求多年来持续旺盛。一方面，大量上世纪建造的老房子在保温、布局和管线上已经跟不上现代生活；另一方面，在搬家成本高企的市场环境下，翻新现有住宅往往比换房更划算，也是保持和提升房产价值最直接的方式。

业主考虑装修，通常出于以下几个原因：

• 扩建房屋，或在原有基础上加盖一层
• 按个人喜好改造室内空间
• 升级厨房或浴室
• 分割或重组住宅的功能区域
• 改善日常居住体验
• 提升房产价值，为出售或出租做准备

奥克兰以其房产和地段闻名——尤其在 Ponsonby、Mt Eden、Sandringham、Glenfield、Howick 等传统老区，有大量值得翻新的老房子。近年来，由于不少老房占地面积大，土地分割（subdivision）也越来越受欢迎。无论您的目的是自住升级还是提升市场售价，翻新方案都应该围绕目标买家和实际居住需求来设计。

我们会结合客户的预算和生活方式进行设计，在可承受的范围内，尽可能为客户呈现最理想的装修成果。想了解更多，请参考自住房 vs 投资房装修指南——如何兼顾投资回报与居住舒适度。

2. 在奥克兰，装修费用如何确定？

确认装修成本是整个项目中最棘手、也最因人而异的环节——同样面积的房子，因为需求和方案不同，费用可能相差数倍。

如果您正考虑购买一处需要翻新的房产，提前了解大致的装修费用，可以避免买房后预算不足的窘境。如果是翻新自住房，建议先解决日常必需的部分，再在预算允许时考虑更多升级。

如果您清楚即将装修区域的面积，可以用每平方米单价提前估算一个参考值（注意这只是平均数）。无论项目大小，都请预留至少 10% 的应急预算——开工后总会出现不可预见的支出，比如临时想增加的项目，或需要更换的腐烂木材。

整屋翻新案例

奥克兰 St Heliers 整屋翻新包含：洗手间装修、两间卫浴装修、洗衣区装修、整屋内部粉刷、露台翻新、内部房间门换新、内部楼梯及玻璃围栏扶手安装、移除墙纸和墙面批灰、外部粉刷和扶手安装。

更多不同需求的奥克兰整屋翻新案例：

• 为 Avondale 三代同堂大家庭完成的整屋翻新
• 翻新还是出售？Hillsborough 老屋整屋翻新
• 自住房与投资房的翻新策略对比

3. 奥克兰房屋扩建成本

明明可以卖掉房子搬去更大的，为什么还要考虑扩建？通常出于以下四个理由：

• 您喜欢现在居住的区域，不想搬离
• 想要真正符合需求的改变，而不是将就于”还可以”的现状
• 扩建的总成本可能低于换购更大的房子
• 对现在的房子和社区有感情

在奥克兰，50 平方米的底层房屋扩建费用一般为 100,000 至 150,000 纽币，相当于每平方米 2,000 至 3,000 纽币。差异主要来自建筑类型和建材品质。

在确定扩建规模和具体内容之前，无法得出准确报价。仅扩建方案的设计费用，就会因复杂程度从 3,000 至 5,000 纽币不等。

想了解自己扩建项目的定制估价？请使用 Superior Renovations 开发的免费房屋扩建成本计算器（新西兰）。

奥克兰两层房屋扩建的费用

如果两层楼面积相同，一个通行的估算规律是：在单层扩建成本的基础上增加约 50%，再加上约 20% 的专业服务费用和 15% 的消费税（GST）。例如：$150,000 + 50% × $150,000 = $225,000（未含专业费用和 GST）。

预估扩建成本时，别忘了窗户和固定装置——务必把它们纳入规划和估算，否则收到最终发票时可能会大吃一惊。规划扩建是一项大工程，最好的起点就是先把成本算清楚——对总成本有了大致概念后，后续决策都会容易得多。

新西兰房屋扩建的一般流程

1. 向建筑/装修公司进行初步咨询
2. 由建筑设计师进行可行性研究
3. 拟定前期费用
4. 客户确认初始费用
5. 客户、设计师和施工方进行实地考察会议
6. 起草扩建方案草案并向客户介绍
7. 提交最终方案申请建筑许可（Building Consent）
8. 建筑许可获批
9. 施工方根据获批方案出具报价和规格书
10. 客户确认
11. 签署建筑合同
12. 收取初始定金
13. 确认开工日期及预计完工日期

了解更多：在奥克兰，哪些翻新工程需要建筑许可？

完整的内部翻新案例，包括：新围板、重新设计楼梯、安装玻璃栏杆、新吊灯、新地毯，以及全屋更换 LED 灯。

4. 新西兰每平方米的装修费用

在奥克兰，不同类型的装修费用从每平方米 1,800 至 2,500 纽币不等。

整屋室内翻新通常从约 41,000 纽币起步，根据需求不同可能达到甚至超过 100,000 纽币。这只是基于奥克兰不同区域装修价格得出的基础参考。

如何使用每平方米参考价

每平方米费用并不精确，只是一个预估值，但可以帮您根据预算框定装修范围：每平方米 1,800 纽币属于入门档，2,500 纽币左右是平均水平，超过 3,000 纽币则属于高端定制档。

5. 房屋装修分项均价表

以下为各分项费用的参考区间，实际报价以现场评估为准：

新西兰每平方米双层玻璃的成本

相比更换全新的双层玻璃和窗框，在现有窗框上加装双层玻璃组件的费用要低得多——以 100 平方米的房子为例，大致费用在 15,000 至 18,000 纽币。

不过，加装方案只适用于窗框状况良好的房子。奥克兰许多老房子的窗框因损坏或变形并不具备改造条件。如果您的房子较新、目前是单层玻璃，加装双层玻璃的保温效果与整窗更换接近，是更具性价比的选择。

完整的双层玻璃成本分析，请查看：什么是双层玻璃？我们还提供双层玻璃成本计算器，输入您的信息即可获得预估费用。

Renovated Bathroom

Kitchen and House Renovation

房屋翻新是否值得？

很多业主纠结：装修到底能不能提升房产价值？如果您的房子在奥克兰，专业的翻新是提升房产价值和吸引力最可靠的方式之一。关键在于把预算和目标售价放在一起做利润分析——先确定装修预算和预期回报，再决定投入的档次和范围，而不是边做边加。

无论您是打算翻新老旧厨房，还是想通过加建露台改善户外空间，规划装修的第一步永远是：弄清项目涉及的成本、工作量和时间。

6. 让装修有个好开端的四个准备工作

1. 做足调查，弄清自己想要什么。在询价和选材之前，先对需求形成清晰的概念。如果想翻新浴室但不确定风格，可以从家装设计杂志获取灵感，或在 Pinterest 和小红书上收藏喜欢的方案备用。

2. 制定详细的计划。详细的装修计划是项目成功的关键。装修公司可以协助，但预算、偏好材料和期望效果这几件事，需要您提前自己想清楚。

3. 为装修预留充足的时间。奥克兰的装修项目经常比预期耗时更长。把时间规划得比您认为需要的更宽裕，可以在进度放缓时避免不必要的压力。

4. 确保比较过所有选项。做最终决定前，从多家奥克兰装修公司获取建议和报价进行比较。优质材料价格更高，经验丰富的承包商收费也往往更高——重点是核实承包商的口碑、多提问题、留意隐藏费用。

要把奥克兰的房子装修得漂亮又经济，关键是先为自己设定清晰的目标，描绘出想要的完整画面，再在一家值得信赖的装修公司的指导下逐步推进——专业团队会在全程给出合理建议，帮您避开代价高昂的错误。

7. 选择装修公司时应该注意什么？

不要被华丽的网站和精美的工程车吸引。合适的装修公司需要的是经验、资源、组织能力，以及真正帮您实现理想家园的意愿。奥克兰业主在筛选装修公司时，最应关注以下六点：

1. 有说服力的过往项目。查看案例研究和装修规格细节，并主动提问。完成过大量项目的公司，已经在别人的项目中踩过坑、积累过教训，能帮您避免重蹈覆辙。

2. 在类似规模项目上有可靠记录。确保对方做过与您的项目类似甚至相同的工作。最常见的错误，是选了一家”什么都做、什么都不精”的公司。

3. 良好的沟通。线索藏在客户主动留下的在线评价和视频推荐里（并非所有公司都有视频推荐——获得热情客户的真实反馈并不容易）。可以要求公司提供愿意接受电话核实的老客户名单——如果一家公司连 5 个客户都提供不出，这是危险信号。

4. 优秀的组织能力。这一点体现在细节上：销售流程是否系统化？跟进是否主动？与办公室团队的预约是否顺畅？是否有明确的下一步指引？根据您的要求给出的建议是否准确？

5. 来自第三方平台的真实评价。不要只看公司官网上的评价——去 Google 和 Facebook 查看他们的评论和帖子，留意是否有负面评价以及公司如何回应。

6. 与信誉良好的供应商合作。弄清材料和零配件的来源，确保您拿到的是有质量保障的产品，并且享有独立的产品保修支持。

8. 免费装修费用计算器

应广大客户的要求，我们自主开发了三个免费成本计算器，帮助正在考虑或研究装修的您快速获得估算：

• 浴室装修费用计算器
• 厨房装修费用计算器
• 房屋扩建费用计算器

房屋装修前后对比（新西兰）by Superior Renovations

更多家庭装修资源

1. 在奥克兰厨房装修图库中获取厨房设计灵感
2. 在奥克兰卫浴装修图库中获取浴室设计灵感
3. 特色项目与客户案例研究——了解真实项目的规格与预算
4. 来自奥克兰客户的真实评价

常见问题

需要更多信息？

下载我们免费的完整家庭装修指南（48 页）。无论您已经在装修，还是仍在做决定，这份指南都能帮上忙——其中包含一份 100 多项的免费装修检查清单，帮您避开代价高昂的错误。

下载免费装修指南（PDF）

还有问题没解决？预约 Superior Renovations 团队的免费咨询

由 Superior Renovations 撰写

Superior Renovations 迅速成为奥克兰最受推荐的装修公司之一，这归功于我们友好的态度、透明的定价和公开的工作方式。当您的奥克兰房屋需要装修改造服务时，Superior Renovations 是您可以信赖的团队——高质量的工艺、高效的进度和具有成本效益的解决方案。

或致电我们：0800 199 888

一直在推迟您的装修计划吗？

我们与 Q Mastercard® 合作，为您提供 18 个月免息分期付款方案——现在就享受您的新家，减少资金压力。

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没有人愿意在烹饪时体验幽闭恐惧的感觉。对于空间紧凑的小户型公寓和住宅来说，厨房的局促感是个真实的问题——但只要空间得到有效利用，它很容易解决。

规划是紧凑型厨房设计的关键。人工和项目管理等基础成本不会因为厨房小而减少——安装工、电工、水管工、瓦工、油漆工一个都不能少——但材料成本会更低：橱柜更少、瓷砖更少。省下来的预算，正好可以投入到创新的收纳方案上。

比如：打造融入生活空间的隐藏式储物柜，把电器收进去而不让空间显得局促；或者定制通顶橱柜，把不常用的电器放在最上层，再配一把兼具装饰功能的梯子。Kitchen Things（我们的首选家电供应商）有大量专为小户型设计的顶级品牌电器——可以拆分收进橱柜，不占用任何台面空间。

以下是 16 个针对新西兰紧凑型厨房的设计理念，全部来自我们在奥克兰完成的真实项目经验。

扫描二维码，在小红书上找到我们

体验家居改造的艺术，选择 Superior Renovations！我们是奥克兰首屈一指的浴室、厨房及全屋装修专家。从概念设计到完工，我们的团队确保每个细节都完美无缺。扫描二维码，在小红书上关注我们，获取最新项目、装修技巧和灵感。

扫描二维码，通过微信联系我们

想开始您的装修之旅吗？通过微信与 Superior Renovations 联系，享受便捷、个性化的中文服务。立即扫描，提问、获取专家建议，踏出家居改造的第一步！

厨房装修费用计算器

想知道翻新自己的厨房大概要多少钱？使用我们免费的厨房装修费用计算器——输入您的具体需求，估算结果几秒内发送到邮箱。

1. 玩转你的色彩

有些颜色容易让空间显得狭小，有些则擅长营造空间放大的错觉。我们建议客户以中性色作为厨房的主色调——例如 Dulux 的 Mason Bay Quarter 或 Epsom 系列——让空间最大程度地舒展开。

用中性色或深浅不一的白色，并不意味着厨房一定沉闷无聊：选择一块有色彩或有质感的防溅板来吸引视线、制造趣味；橱柜颜色可以适当加深以形成对比；再用彩色的把手和水龙头点缀色彩感。

2. 灯光照明很重要

自然采光是厨房里最好的照明。可以通过大型垂直窗户营造高度感，或增加天窗抬升视觉上的天花板高度（顺便为更多橱柜创造空间），最大限度地引入自然光。如果这些都做不到，仍有很多办法把照明融入厨房设计：

• 贴近天花板的照明设备：考虑吸顶灯或贴近天花板的灯具，避免低垂的吊灯——它们会让小厨房显得笨重。省下墙面照明的位置，墙面就能用来装置物架。
• 嵌入式照明：在不牺牲任何空间的前提下照亮厨房的特定区域，是小厨房的理想选择。
• 吊线灯：由金属线或链条悬挂的单体灯具——枝形吊灯的轻量版，占用空间小。可以成组使用也可以只用一盏，既营造氛围又增添个性。
• 橱柜下方的 LED 灯带：在橱柜和把手下方安装 LED 灯带，省空间又提氛围——大多数灯带可调光，氛围感再加一层。
• 筒灯（埋入式照明）：奥克兰多数房子都有筒灯——样式丰富、极度省空间。

橱柜下方的 LED 灯带

吊线灯

吊线灯

以上是可以应用到您厨房设计中的照明实例。

3. 明智地选择你的电器

为厨房挑电器本来就不容易——空间小，就更难。好在厨房翻新中最实用的思路之一，就是选用更智能的新产品：专为狭小空间设计的电器，无论厨房多小，都灵活、多变、高效。博世（Bosch）和 Kitchen Things 都有专为小厨房设计的产品线——比如可以拆卸收进抽屉的电器，而不是常年占据台面的大家伙。

一个例子：用可以收进抽屉的手持式搅拌机或研磨机，替代笨重的台式搅拌机。还可以考虑多功能电器——一台机器搞定搅拌、研磨、打蛋等多项任务，台面立刻清爽。

4. 成为一名置物架大师

翻新或设计紧凑型厨房，核心是规划合适的空间方案。很多室内设计师都认同：最好的厨房设计离不开恰当的收纳——这正是置物架的价值所在。

壁挂置物架

壁挂置物架是为厨房增加储物空间最物美价廉的方式——放香料、杯子、茶叶和咖啡壶都很合适，同时为厨房设计增添个人色彩。翻新厨房时，可以让悬浮置物架与其他橱柜搭配使用；它们同样适合加在用餐区。再配上彩色的杯盘和厨房配件，收纳和装饰一举两得。

位于 Mangere Bridge 的全厨房改造——壁挂置物架不仅是厨房的视觉焦点，还增加了存储空间

抽屉和厨房储物架

抽屉内的分层架让收纳更轻松——可以在抽屉里加架子存放餐具。另一个趋势是在储物柜内加装可拉出的储物架，让橱柜整洁不凌乱。这种收纳形式也可以延伸到厨房之外的其他生活区域。

5. 厨房收纳

收纳对任何厨房都重要，对紧凑型厨房则是生死攸关。最有效的扩容方式：在基础橱柜上方加装壁挂橱柜，直接把储物潜力翻倍。

以上是我们为奥克兰客户打造的收纳方案。

紧凑型厨房收纳最大化的 5 种方法

• 通顶开放式搁板：既实用，又能为厨房营造更开放的感觉。
• 魔术角（Magic Corner）：转角柜深处的空间常年被浪费——魔术角的拉出式手推车抽屉能把这块”死角”彻底盘活。我们常用 Blum 的产品，他们在紧凑型厨房收纳方案上非常创新。
• 岛台兼作收纳：对多数人来说，储物空间永远不嫌多。早餐岛台可以定制储物柜和抽屉，把台面下方全部变成收纳。
• 柜内收纳架：如上文所述，柜内收纳架让抽屉井井有条；食品柜抽屉（pantry drawers）也正在成为节省空间的流行方式。
• 墙面挂钩：锅碗瓢盆和厨房器皿挂上墙，橱柜空间立刻释放。风格建议：选色彩鲜艳、有活力的器皿，挂出来也好看。

6. 兼具储物和用餐功能的厨房岛台

无论厨房大小，岛台都已是厨房设计的重要组成——它既是备餐台面，又能兼作用餐区和收纳空间，一物三用。

位于 Blockhouse Bay 的厨房改造——这个岛台提供了大量的储物柜以及台面空间

展厅样板：岛台收纳最大化的案例

应客户日益增长的需求，我们在奥克兰开设了家装展厅，完整展示我们装修的厨房和浴室品质。下图是展厅中由我们设计并施工的现代厨房——岛台两侧都有存储空间。

我们的家装展厅位于奥克兰 Wairau Valley。乍看之下，这个岛台是一个无缝的整体，似乎没有任何橱柜或抽屉。实际上：朝向走廊的一侧有 2 个双层储藏柜和 1 个单层储藏柜；面向厨房的一侧有 2 个拉出式调味品柜和 2 个双抽屉，其中还藏着一个隐藏抽屉——正是这个隐藏式设计成就了无缝的外观。

相关阅读：哪种布局更适合你的厨房？

很多人以为紧凑型厨房装不下岛台——并非如此。紧凑型厨房常处于开放式生活空间中：一面墙容纳台面、灶台和洗碗机，中间加一个小早餐吧，就能把厨房和客厅自然”分开”。您甚至可以取消独立用餐区，让早餐吧同时充当餐桌和备餐台面。

位于 Greenlane 的厨房改造——岛台作为用餐区，配有水槽和操作台面，另一侧是橱柜形式的存储空间

如果您的紧凑型厨房是封闭式的，考虑拆除厨房与客厅之间的墙——变成开放式后的宽敞感会让您惊讶。

更多收纳方案灵感，请查看以下项目：

• Bucklands Beach — Lynette 和 Henry 的厨房
• Avondale 的整屋与厨房翻新
• Papatoetoe 年轻家庭的厨房翻新
• Hillsborough — Amber 和 Craig 的厨房改造

7. 隐藏式厨房

近几年逐渐流行的一个概念：隐藏式厨房——由柜门和抽屉分隔的紧凑型厨房空间，需要时可以瞬间”隐身”。有了这样的设计，您可以轻松藏起厨房的杂乱，几秒钟内把”带厨房的客厅”变回一个完整的客厅。

8. 紧凑型厨房的布局

改造紧凑型厨房的方法很多，但动工前必须先想清楚布局——布局直接决定厨房用起来顺不顺手、舒不舒服。无论是从零开始还是改造现有空间，都要思考您实际怎么使用厨房、最常做哪些事——不要停留在”早餐和晚餐”的层面，要更具体。

如果您偏爱 L 形厨房，但它让空间显得拥挤，那就把橱柜集中在一侧，转而增加一个小岛台——既补回橱柜空间，又能兼作用餐区。封闭式厨房则考虑拆除与生活空间之间的墙：开放式厨房通常让空间显得更大，也让整个生活区更有整体感。

9. 使用更大的瓷砖铺设厨房地板

与直觉相反，更大的瓷砖反而让空间显得更大。如果厨房地面打算铺瓷砖，考虑 900×600 或 600×600 的规格——灌浆线更少，视觉”断裂”更少，地面自然显得开阔。想深入了解大尺寸瓷砖如何制造空间错觉，请阅读我们与 Tile Depot 的问答文章。

10. 用抽屉取代厨房橱柜

普通柜门式橱柜的储物效率其实不高——塞在最里面的东西很难拿到。改用拉出式抽屉，所有内容物一目了然，收纳效率立刻提升。

相关阅读：奥克兰经典、传统、当代、现代、田园和工业风厨房的设计指南

11. 关注橱柜的纹理，并合理运用镜子

紧凑型厨房选材的原则：不让材料把空间”压小”。闪亮、光滑的表面会反射光线，让厨房显得更大。多数紧凑型厨房走简约现代风效果最好；如果那不是您想要的，至少记住别让材料过于花哨和灰暗——它们会让厨房显得更小。

喜欢现代和当代风格的话，可以用玻璃做防溅板，制造空间错觉；走经典路线则可以在墙上加一面镜子——比如配白色画框的大平面镜。五金选择上：现代/当代风格选隐藏式把手；传统、乡村、古典或田园风格选小巧的亚光旋钮，而不是笨重的把手。

12. 厨房小推车和高餐桌

紧凑型厨房最缺的就是台面。两个有创意的补救办法：一是厨房小推车——备餐和储物的移动台面，不用时推走或折叠收纳；二是高餐桌——站立时可以直接当备餐台用，再配几把高脚凳，空间设计感也上来了。

13. 把墙饰和背景墙作为设计元素

紧凑型厨房的橱柜线条流畅，没有太多位置摆装饰品——但您可以用一面背景墙为厨房注入个性。避免在墙上挂画或摆饰（容易让小厨房显得封闭），改用鲜艳的瓷砖或与厨房其他部分形成对比的涂料来吸引视线；有纹理的瓷砖还能为厨房增加一个额外的维度。

14. 将大自然带进你的紧凑型厨房

自然元素能为厨房增添急需的温暖。大厨房可以自由混搭木材和石材，但紧凑型厨房如果堆太多木质元素，容易显得封闭。更聪明的做法：在橱柜角落摆绿植，或让爬藤类植物从柜顶垂落。

真想要木质感的话，在背景墙上用木纹瓷砖——有木头的纹理和外观，却容易清洁。墙面使用木纹砖时，请选浅色而非深色。

相关阅读：顶级厨房设计趋势与注意事项

15. 让厨房橱柜与墙壁颜色协调统一

橱柜颜色与墙面相匹配，能营造出轻快、宽敞的厨房。为了让中性厨房不显单调，可以加一面彩色背景墙，再用对比鲜明的灯具和橱柜把手提亮。

16. 安装大水槽

紧凑型厨房里装一个大水槽非常实用——尤其在没有洗碗机的情况下。大水槽不仅洗碗方便，做饭时还能把未洗的碗”藏”进去，台面始终保持清爽。

小空间的特色厨房装修案例

位于 Parnell 的豪华都市风厨房装修

这栋联排别墅位于 Parnell 的中心位置，但厨房很小、台面空间不足。我们彻底改变了布局——把厨房从左侧区域移到右侧，并在用餐区增加了橱柜作为扩展存储。这组柜子配有带内部灯光的搁架，需要时可以打开展示。查看改造前后图片和项目细节

位于 Greenlane 的紧凑型厨房

Joanna 和 Steve 想让他们的老房子更现代化。原来的厨房是封闭式的——我们拆除了一面墙，把它变成开放式生活空间。空间有限，所以我们打造了一个早餐吧台：增加储物、扩充台面、兼作早餐吧，一举三得。了解更多

更多家居设计资源

1. 了解更好的厨房收纳方案，请查看上文列出的四个项目详情（Bucklands Beach、Avondale、Papatoetoe、Hillsborough）
2. 在我们的奥克兰厨房装修图库中获取设计灵感
3. 特色项目与客户案例——查看真实项目的规格
4. 来自奥克兰客户的真实评价
5. 想了解翻新费用？阅读厨房翻新费用完整指南，或直接使用厨房装修费用计算器

常见问题

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Superior Renovations 迅速成为奥克兰最受推荐的装修公司之一，这归功于我们友好的态度、透明的定价和公开的工作方式。当您的奥克兰房屋需要装修改造服务时，Superior Renovations 是您可以信赖的团队——高质量的工艺、高效的进度和具有成本效益的解决方案。

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