Shower Glass for Auckland Bathrooms: Types, Frameless & Care
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Quick answer: For most Auckland bathrooms, a clear or low-iron toughened shower glass panel gives the open, light-filled look people want, while frosted or fluted glass handles privacy in shared and family bathrooms. Whatever you choose, it has to be AS/NZS 2208 safety-rated. On a Superior Renovations bathroom, the glass panel is specified, supplied and installed as part of the job, with waterproofing and council compliance handled in-house.
The shower glass is one of the last things specified in a bathroom and one of the first things anyone notices walking in. Get the type and finish right and a tight ensuite reads twice its size; get it wrong and you’re chasing water spots every morning or staring at a green tinge on a panel that should look crisp.
This guide covers what we actually specify across Auckland bathrooms: the glass types, the privacy-versus-light trade-off, frameless versus framed, the suppliers behind the product, the safety standards that have to be met, and how to keep it clear. We’ve completed more than 1,000 Auckland renovations, so the advice here is what holds up in our humidity and salt air, not a generic product brochure. You can see how these glass choices look in finished rooms in our bathroom designs we’ve built across Auckland.
Choosing a Shower Glass Panel: The Main Types
The glass type sets both the look and the upkeep, and the right call depends on the room and who uses it. Here’s what we work with most across Auckland homes, from a Ponsonby villa to a modern Mt Eden apartment.
- Clear glass. The open, gallery-style look. It makes a small bathroom feel larger and shows off good tiling. The catch is upkeep — clear glass needs a regular wipe to stay free of water spots and soap scum.
- Frosted glass. Diffuses light, blurs the view, keeps the room bright. The sensible pick for shared family bathrooms in suburbs like Remuera or Epsom.
- Tinted glass. Grey or bronze tones for a modern edge, common in Grey Lynn renovations. It buys some privacy but darkens the room, so the lighting plan has to allow for it.
- Textured glass (fluted, reeded, rain). Decorative and practical at once — privacy plus better at hiding water marks than clear. Popular in higher-end Herne Bay work.
- Low-iron glass. Ultra-clear, without the faint green cast of standard glass. The premium choice when the tiling deserves to be seen properly — you’ll see it in a lot of St Heliers builds.
💡 Quick tip: In a coastal suburb like Mission Bay, low-iron or frosted glass copes better with the salt air that wears at standard clear glass. And whatever the type, it should be toughened safety glass — that’s not optional under NZ standards.
Getting the Privacy and Light Balance Right
Texture and transparency decide how private the shower feels, how much daylight reaches the room, and how much cleaning you’ll be doing. In Auckland, where homes run from cosy Grey Lynn bungalows to open family pads in Howick, that balance is what separates a bathroom that works from one that doesn’t.
If privacy is the priority, go higher opacity — frosted or textured. If an open, light-filled feel matters more, stay with clear or low-iron. Maximising natural light also trims your reliance on artificial lighting, which lines up with EECA’s guidance on designing and renovating for energy efficiency.
Transparency, from clear to opaque
- Fully transparent (clear). Maximum light, the illusion of more space, zero privacy. Fine for a solo ensuite or a compact CBD apartment.
- Semi-transparent (tinted or low-iron). Tinted adds a hue for moderate privacy; low-iron keeps the clarity without the green cast. Works well in modern Parnell homes.
- Obscured (frosted or etched). Soft light, blurred view, high privacy. The right call for a shared family bathroom in a suburb like Pakuranga.
- Opaque (heavily textured or patterned). Almost no see-through, still passes light. Suits guest bathrooms and ensuites in older villas.
Under NZ building rules, shower glass in a high-risk wet area has to be safety glass, toughened or laminated so it breaks safely, under Building Code clause F2 (Hazardous Building Materials), with glazing selection set out in NZS 4223. Even fully clear glass has to clear that bar.
A closer look at textures
Smooth is the baseline — easy to clean, but it shows fingerprints and water spots. Fluted or reeded glass has vertical ridges that catch the light and give privacy without fully blocking it; it also hides water marks better than smooth. Frosted or etched glass is acid-etched or sandblasted for a matte finish that scatters light and shows grime less. Patterned glass, rain or hammered effects, adds a custom, decorative feel and hides imperfections, though the pattern takes a bit more effort to keep clean.
| Texture | Transparency | Pros | Cons | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Smooth | High (clear/tinted) | Easy to clean, maximises light | Shows spots, low privacy | Compact city apartments |
| Fluted/Reeded | Medium | Hides marks, good privacy-light balance | Can trap soap, pricier | Family bathrooms |
| Frosted/Etched | Low | High privacy, low maintenance | Can feel enclosed | Shared bathrooms |
| Patterned | Low to medium | Decorative, conceals grime | Harder to clean, custom cost | Designer renovations |
One thing we tell every client: look at a sample under your own bathroom lighting before you commit. Glass that reads soft and elegant in a showroom can look completely different in a north-facing Auckland bathroom at 7am.
“Fluted glass is one of the easiest ways to get privacy and a bit of character without closing the room in. I just tell people to test a sample under their own lights first, the effect shifts with the room.”
— Cici Zuo, Designer (NZ Dip. Interior Design, Certified Designer), Superior Renovations
Frameless vs Framed: Which Suits Your Bathroom
Frameless glass is the single biggest decision most people make on their shower, and it’s where the budget moves most. It’s surged in popularity across Auckland, and for good reason — but it isn’t automatically the right answer for every bathroom.
What frameless actually is
A frameless shower uses thick toughened glass, usually 10–12mm, held by discreet brackets, hinges or channels instead of a full metal frame. The result is minimalist and open, with the glass doing the visual work. It still has to meet AS/NZS 2208 for safety glazing, and because the glass carries more load, someone leaning on a door, and there’s no frame to hide behind, the install has to be precise to stay leak-free. The load and impact side of that sits under Building Code clause B1 (Structure).
The case for frameless
Frameless makes a room feel larger by removing the visual barrier of a frame. It’s easier to clean, no frame crevices for mould to sit in, and it lets light bounce around, which helps on grey Auckland days. The thicker glass is durable, and you can run it clear, frosted or textured to suit anything from a beachy Takapuna look to urban Britomart. For a small bathroom, frameless is often the thing that tips it from cramped to genuinely luxurious.
The trade-offs
It costs more, because of the thicker glass and the specialised fittings. It demands a precise install, because a small misalignment causes leaks or instability, and that’s a real risk in older homes with floors that aren’t level. Water containment takes more care without a frame, so the sealing has to be right. In an exposed coastal spot like Piha, the hardware needs to be properly corrosion-resistant or it won’t last.
| Aspect | Framed | Frameless |
|---|---|---|
| Cost (glass + install) | Lower (no frameless premium) | Higher — see NZ figures below |
| Look | Traditional, structured | Modern, uninterrupted |
| Install | More forgiving | Precise, pro-only |
| Maintenance | Frames trap dirt | Easier clean, seals need attention |
| Durability | Good, frames can corrode | Excellent with thick glass |
💡 Quick tip: As an NZ guide, glazier Wellington Glass & Mirror puts frameless shower supply and installation at roughly $1,200–$3,600, with custom glass taking around 7–14 days from measure to install. Figures move with size, glass type and hardware — on a managed renovation the glass sits inside the overall bathroom budget rather than as a separate job you coordinate.
“Frameless brings an effortless, airy feel, it’s often what makes a small bathroom feel properly luxurious. The honest caveat is it only works if the install is exact. It’s not a DIY job.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations
Thinking about frameless for your bathroom? Book a free in-home consultation and we’ll talk through whether it suits your space and budget — or try the bathroom renovation cost calculator for a ballpark first.
The Suppliers Behind Auckland Shower Glass
When we spec a bathroom, the shower glass panel comes from established NZ suppliers who can prove their product meets the Building Code and back it with a warranty. You don’t need to source or coordinate any of this, as your renovation company we handle supply and install, but it helps to understand who makes what, and why it matters for a home dealing with Auckland humidity and, near the coast, salt air.
Metro Glass
Metro Glass is one of the larger players in the NZ glass market, with a strong Auckland presence. They make toughened shower glass for everything from frameless panels to sliding doors, in clear, low-iron and frosted finishes, all meeting NZ safety standards. Their shower glass range includes 10mm panels suited to larger bathrooms in areas like Remuera, plus custom tinting if you’re matching a bronze tone to a villa. Pricing depends on size, thickness and finish — their range spans standard panels through to custom work.
“Low-iron panels are what we reach for when someone wants that clean, high-end finish and the tiling deserves to be seen properly.”
— Eunice Qin, Designer, Superior Renovations
Mico
Mico is a long-standing Auckland bathroom supplier with a broad range of shower glass doors and panels — pivot doors, fixed screens, semi-framed and frameless. Their shower doors and panels range runs from budget clear glass up to premium frosted, with rust-resistant hardware that matters in coastal suburbs like Takapuna.
Reece
For higher-end work, Reece carries quality imports and local fabrications, including ultra-clear low-iron and tinted glass suited to contemporary apartments. Their shower systems range covers thicknesses from 8mm to 12mm and textures like etched or fluted, often with easy-clean coatings that cut maintenance in humid conditions.
| Supplier | Specialties | Best for | Certification |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metro Glass | Clear, frosted, low-iron, custom tinting | Luxury and custom renos | AS/NZS 2208 |
| Mico | Pivot doors, fixed screens, textured | Budget to mid-range | Safety glass standards |
| Reece | Low-iron, tinted, frameless screens | Premium custom designs | AS/NZS 2208 |
Plumbing World is also worth knowing for practical selections often bundled with a full bathroom fit-out, and Plumbline for quality hardware and fittings. The value of using a renovation company here is that we already know which supplier suits which job — the glass gets matched to the home and the rest of the bathroom, not picked off a shelf in isolation.
“Half the job is knowing which supplier suits which bathroom. We’re matching the glass to the home and the finish, not just ordering a panel.”
— Alison Yu, Designer, Superior Renovations
The Safety Standards That Apply in NZ
Shower glass in a wet area has to be safe and compliant, or it won’t pass inspection — and an uncertified panel can cause grief with insurance and resale later. Here’s what has to be met.
AS/NZS 2208 — the one that’s non-negotiable
AS/NZS 2208 is the joint Australian/New Zealand standard for safety glazing. It means the glass is toughened or laminated to break safely, into small, blunt pieces rather than sharp shards. For shower glass it’s mandatory, and it matters most in homes with kids or older residents, where the injury risk from a break is highest. Under Building Code clause F2 (Hazardous Building Materials), safety glass is required in high-risk areas like showers, with glazing selection set out in NZS 4223. The AS/NZS 2208 mark is etched permanently into the glass — that’s where to check for it.
The Building Code clauses that come up
Three clauses are relevant to a shower. B1 (Structure) means the glass and its fixings can take impact and load — someone leaning on a door. E3 (Internal Moisture) covers the waterproofing around the shower that stops leaks into the building. F2 (Hazardous Building Materials) requires safety glass to reduce injury from breakage. These are set out on building.govt.nz, and evidence of compliance is needed at consent stage. Auckland Council inspects bathrooms closely, so certified glass keeps approvals moving.
💡 Quick tip: Auckland Council consents reference NZS 4223 (glazing in buildings). On a managed renovation, confirming the glass meets it sits with us — but it’s the first thing to check on any bathroom job.
“Across the mix of old and new homes we work on, the safety standard is the line that doesn’t move. The design can flex. AS/NZS 2208 can’t.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations
| Standard | What it covers | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| AS/NZS 2208 | Safety glazing | Glass breaks safely; mandatory in wet areas |
| Building Code B1 / E3 / F2 | Structure, internal moisture, hazardous materials | Required for consent sign-off |
| NZS 4223 | Glazing in buildings | Referenced in Auckland Council consents |
How the Glass Actually Gets Installed
Installation is where a good-looking panel either stays leak-free for years or turns into a problem — and frameless glass in particular is not a weekend job. It’s precise work: accurate measurements off walls that are rarely perfectly plumb in older Auckland homes, secure fixings into studs, and watertight sealing that meets the Building Code (E3 for internal moisture, B1 for structure).
When Superior Renovations manages your bathroom, the glass is measured, supplied and installed by our team as part of the build, waterproofing, sealing and council sign-off included, so there’s no coordinating a separate glazier or chasing a certificate of compliance yourself.
Superior Renovations
What happens, step by step
- Prep. Walls are checked for plumb, and the tiled surface and waterproofing are confirmed sound before anything is fixed.
- Measure. Width is taken at top and bottom, because walls in character homes aren’t straight. For an over-bath screen, the bath lip is factored in.
- Fit and fix. Framed screens sit in channels fixed to studs; frameless panels are secured with brackets or U-channels into reinforced walls, using corrosion-resistant stainless hardware.
- Seal. Silicone is applied and left to cure before use, then the join is water-tested.
- Sign-off. Stability, operation and watertightness are checked, and a certificate of compliance is obtained where the job requires it.
A standard frameless setup takes a day or two; an older home with uneven floors and odd angles, many Ponsonby terraces, for instance, takes longer. Where structural changes are involved, Auckland Council consent may be required, so it’s worth checking Auckland Council’s building and consents pages early. On a managed renovation we handle that in-house.
“A leak-free finish starts with prep. Across the range of homes we work on, the trick is adapting to each one’s quirks rather than forcing a standard install.”
— Cici Zuo, Designer, Superior Renovations
Warranties and Your Rights
A new shower glass panel shouldn’t fog, crack or fail early — and if it does, knowing what’s covered saves real money. Most warranties cover manufacturing defects like bubbles or faulty tempering, but not misuse or poor installation.
Manufacturer’s warranties on the glass, installation cover from the installer, and separate hardware cover against rust all vary by supplier and product — worth confirming in a coastal spot like Mission Bay. Always check the specific term in writing at the time of purchase. Underneath all of that, the Consumer Guarantees Act requires products to be fit for purpose and durable for a reasonable time, whether or not there’s a written warranty.
| Cover type | What it typically covers | Common exclusions |
|---|---|---|
| Glass (manufacturer) | Manufacturing defects — bubbles, faulty tempering, shattering | Install errors, impact, abuse |
| Installation (installer) | Labour against leaks or misalignment | Damage after handover |
| Hardware | Corrosion and mechanical failure | Normal wear, harsh cleaning, chemical damage |
Warranty terms change, so confirm the current cover with the supplier at the time of purchase. The common exclusions to watch are abrasive cleaners, impact damage, and, in Auckland’s hard-water areas, mineral buildup, which keeping the glass clean prevents.
“A warranty isn’t just paperwork, it’s the assurance the bathroom holds up in our climate. We document supply and install so that if anything ever does go wrong, the claim is straightforward.”
— Dorothy Li, Design Manager, Superior Renovations
Keeping Shower Glass Clear
Glass is one of the few things in a new bathroom that gets worse or better depending entirely on what you do in the first year. The wider version of that argument is in our renovation aftercare guide.
In Auckland’s humidity, the difference between glass that looks new for years and glass that hazes over is a short routine, not hours of scrubbing. Hard-water minerals, soap residue and mould all thrive in a damp bathroom and, left long enough, can etch the glass permanently.
The routine is simple. Squeegee the glass after each shower — thirty seconds, and it’s the single biggest thing you can do. Once a week, spray a 50/50 white vinegar and water mix, leave it five to ten minutes, scrub gently, rinse and squeegee dry. For stubborn limescale, a baking soda paste left fifteen minutes then scrubbed off works, though you should skip it on coated glass and check the manufacturer’s guidance first. Run the extractor fan to cut the moisture that feeds mould. Consumer NZ’s cleaning product reviews are a good reference for what works without being harsh.
Different glass needs slightly different care. Clear glass shows spots most, so daily squeegeeing matters; frosted and textured glass hides marks but traps residue in the grooves, where a soft brush helps. For coated glass, skip harsh chemicals so the coating lasts, and near the coast, rinse salt residue off weekly.
“Consistency beats intensity. A quick daily squeegee keeps the glass looking premium and saves the heavy cleans.”
— Alison Yu, Designer, Superior Renovations
Hardware and Fittings: The Part That Holds It Together
The hinges, clips, channels, handles and seals are what decide whether a shower stays secure and splash-proof or turns into a wobbly, leaky annoyance. In Auckland’s humid, sometimes coastal conditions, the material choice matters as much as the glass.
Fittings need to be rust-resistant, strong and compliant. Marine-grade stainless steel or brass resists the corrosion that salt air accelerates in suburbs like Devonport. The Building Code requires fittings to contribute to overall stability and watertightness, with the water-supply side covered under clause G12 (Water Supplies) and internal-moisture control under E3. Frameless setups need heavy-duty, minimal hardware, glass-to-glass hinges or point-fixed clamps, to keep the clean look, while framed setups use simpler, more forgiving tracks and rollers.
What to prioritise: marine-grade corrosion resistance, load capacity rated for 10mm+ panels, adjustability for the uneven walls common in older homes, and a finish, matte black, chrome or brushed nickel, that matches the rest of the bathroom. Plumbline carries a solid range of hinges and handles; see their glass-to-glass shower hinge, which suits 10mm glass. As with the glass, on a managed renovation we specify and supply the fittings to suit your enclosure.
“The right hardware is what takes a shower from functional to genuinely good. It’s a small part of the budget that quietly carries the whole enclosure.”
— Alison Yu, Designer, Superior Renovations
What Shower Glass Costs in Auckland, and Where It Sits in a Bathroom Budget
Two ways to buy shower glass, and they price very differently.
Buying the glass on its own. As an NZ guide, glazier Wellington Glass & Mirror puts frameless supply and installation at roughly $1,200 to $3,600. Glass thickness, panel size, low-iron versus standard float, and the hardware you hang it on all move that figure, so treat it as a band rather than a quote. Framed and semi-frameless sit below it.
Buying it as part of the bathroom. On a managed renovation the glass is a line inside the room, not a separate purchase. Auckland bands published on our own renovation FAQ put a mid-range full bathroom renovation at $25,000 to $35,000, a budget refresh at $9,000 to $16,000, and a luxury or wet-room build from $45,000. The glass is a small share of any of those, and it is the wrong place to save money.
Here is why the second route usually costs less overall. A glazier measures the opening you already have. A renovation prices the opening you are about to build, which means the tiling, the floor fall, the waterproofing membrane and the glass are set out together and the panel is ordered to a dimension that will actually exist. Retrofitting glass into a finished tiled recess that is a few millimetres out of square is where the awkward packers and silicone gap-filling start.
💡 Quick tip: Ask whether the price you have been quoted includes the hardware and the templating visit. A supply-only figure with no site measure is not comparable to an installed one, and hinges and channels are not a rounding error.
Put your own room through the bathroom renovation cost calculator before you price the glass in isolation. If you are still choosing between a tiled recess and an acrylic liner behind that glass, the trade-offs are set out in acrylic shower versus tiled shower.
Replacing or Repairing Existing Shower Glass
Plenty of the searches that land on this page are not about a new bathroom at all. Something has gone wrong with glass that is already there. What can be fixed and what has to be replaced comes down to one property of toughened glass.
A cracked or chipped panel cannot be repaired
Toughened glass is heat-treated after it is cut, drilled and polished. That treatment is what makes it break into small blunt pieces instead of shards, and it is also why nothing can be cut, drilled or ground into it afterwards. A chipped edge or a crack in a toughened panel is not repairable, and it is not a cosmetic issue either: the damage sits in a surface layer that is holding the whole panel in compression. Replace it, and replace it with a panel that carries the AS/NZS 2208 mark.
The same rule explains a job people often ask for and cannot have: you cannot drill a new hinge hole in an existing toughened panel to move a door. The panel has to be remade to the new hole positions.
Scratched, hazed or etched glass
Cloudiness is usually mineral scale rather than damage, and in Auckland’s harder-water pockets it builds fast. Scale will come off. Etching will not. If a weekly clean with a 50/50 white vinegar and water mix stops making a difference, the minerals have started to eat into the surface, and no product on a supermarket shelf reverses that. At that point you are choosing between living with it and replacing the panel.
Doors that drag, drop or leak
A door that has started catching on the tray, or a panel weeping at the bottom edge, is almost always hardware and sealant rather than glass. Hinges lose tension, channels fill with soap residue, and silicone shrinks back off the tile. All three are serviceable. Get them looked at early, because a dropping door puts load somewhere the panel was not designed to carry it.
When the whole enclosure goes instead
Replacing one panel makes sense while the tiling, the tray or the floor fall and the waterproofing are all sound. Once you are dealing with a leak that has got past the membrane, drummy tiles around the recess, or a tray that never drained properly, the glass is the last thing to worry about. Fixing the enclosure and leaving the failed substrate behind it is money spent twice. Our guide to the stages of a bathroom renovation sets out where waterproofing sits in the sequence and why it cannot be retrofitted around finished work.
Shower Doors and Panels: Which Configuration Suits Your Bathroom
Type of glass is one decision. How it opens is a separate one, and in a small Auckland bathroom it is the decision that actually constrains the layout.
| Configuration | Suits | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Single fixed panel, walk-in | Wet rooms and larger bathrooms | Needs correct floor fall and a longer wet zone, or water travels. |
| Hinged or pivot door | Standard family bathrooms | The door swings out. Check it clears the vanity, the towel rail and the toilet. |
| Sliding or bypass door | Tight bathrooms with no swing room | Bottom tracks collect residue and the opening is never the full width. |
| Fixed panel plus return | Corner showers in older homes | Two joints to seal instead of one, so setting out matters more. |
| Over-bath screen | One-bathroom houses that need both | A short screen leaves the tap end unprotected. Measure the spray, not the bath. |
The swing-clearance question is the one most often missed on a plan that looks fine on paper. A hinged door that opens into the space where the vanity door also opens will annoy you every day for fifteen years. Our guide to bathroom layout clearances covers the minimums that keep a small room usable, and if the bath is part of the same decision, freestanding versus built-in changes what is left for the shower.
One practical note on older Auckland housing stock. Villas, bungalows and 1970s brick-and-tile homes rarely have square, plumb walls in the wet areas, and frameless glass is the least forgiving product you can put against an out-of-plumb wall. In those homes a semi-frameless or channelled panel is often the better outcome, not the cheaper compromise.
Getting Your Shower Glass Right
The glass is one of the details that decides whether a finished bathroom feels considered or compromised. The simplest way to get it right is to have it specified and installed as part of the whole renovation, so the glass, the tiling, the waterproofing and the consents all line up.
That’s what we do. If you’re planning a rebuild of the whole wet area, glass included, our designers will talk you through the right glass for your home, your finish and your budget as part of a free in-home consultation.
➡ Book your free in-home consultation with Superior Renovations
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What's the best type of shower glass for a small Auckland bathroom?
Clear or low-iron glass works best in a small bathroom because it maximises light and makes the space feel larger. If the bathroom is shared, frosted glass adds privacy without closing the room in. Whatever the type, it must be AS/NZS 2208 toughened safety glass.
How much does a frameless shower glass panel cost in Auckland?
As an NZ guide, glazier Wellington Glass & Mirror puts frameless supply and installation at roughly $1,200 to $3,600. Glass type, size and hardware all move the figure, so confirm a quote for your specific bathroom. On a managed renovation the glass sits inside the overall bathroom budget.
Is frameless shower glass worth it over framed?
Frameless gives a more open, uninterrupted look and is easier to clean, but it costs more and needs a precise professional install. Framed is more budget-friendly and more forgiving, which suits busy family bathrooms. The right call depends on your space, your budget and the look you're after.
What safety certification does shower glass need in New Zealand?
Shower glass must meet AS/NZS 2208 for safety glazing, plus the relevant Building Code clauses (B1 for structure, E3 for internal moisture and F2 for hazardous materials) and NZS 4223 for glazing selection. The AS/NZS 2208 mark is etched permanently into the glass.
Which Auckland suppliers make shower glass panels?
Metro Glass, Mico and Reece are the main NZ suppliers, ranging from budget through to premium low-iron and custom work. On a managed renovation, your renovation company specifies and supplies the glass to suit your home, so you're not sourcing it yourself.
How do I stop my shower glass going cloudy?
Squeegee the glass after every shower and do a weekly clean with a 50/50 white vinegar and water mix. In Auckland's hard-water areas this prevents the mineral buildup that eventually hazes and etches the glass. Run the extractor fan to cut the moisture that feeds mould.
Can I install frameless shower glass myself?
It's not recommended. Frameless panels are heavy and need exact alignment and wall reinforcement to stay leak-free and safe, so professional installation is the sensible choice. A small misalignment can cause leaks or instability, especially in older homes with uneven floors.
Is the shower glass included when Superior Renovations does my bathroom?
Yes. We specify, supply and install the glass as part of the bathroom renovation, with waterproofing and council compliance handled in-house, so you're not coordinating a separate glazier or chasing a certificate of compliance yourself.
Can a cracked or chipped shower glass panel be repaired?
No. Toughened safety glass is heat-treated after it has been cut, drilled and polished, which is what makes it break safely, and it also means nothing can be cut, drilled or ground into it afterwards. A crack or an edge chip means the panel is replaced, not repaired. For the same reason you cannot drill new hinge holes in an existing panel to move a door. Any replacement must carry the AS/NZS 2208 mark.
Why has my shower glass gone cloudy and can it be fixed?
Cloudiness is usually mineral scale from hard water rather than damage to the glass. Scale comes off with a weekly 50/50 white vinegar and water clean and a squeegee after every shower. Once the minerals have started etching the surface, no cleaning product reverses it, and the choice is between living with it and replacing the panel. Running the extractor fan cuts the moisture that feeds both scale and mould.
Which shower door suits a small Auckland bathroom?
A sliding or bypass door where there is no swing room, or a fixed panel with a return if the shower sits in a corner. A hinged door needs clear space to swing, so check it misses the vanity door, the towel rail and the toilet before the plan is signed off. In older villas and brick-and-tile homes with out-of-plumb walls, a semi-frameless or channelled panel usually sits better than fully frameless.
Further Resources for your bathroom renovation
- Featured projects and Client stories to see specifications on some of the projects.
- Real client stories from Auckland
Need more information?
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References
- Building Performance (MBIE) — Building Code compliance
- Building Performance (MBIE) — Building Code clause B1 (Structure)
- Building Performance (MBIE) — Building Code clause G12 (Water Supplies)
- Auckland Council — Building and consents
- EECA — Design or renovate a home for energy efficiency
- Consumer NZ — Consumer Guarantees Act
- Consumer NZ — Our favourite cleaning products
- Wellington Glass & Mirror — Frameless glass showers and shower screens
- Metro Glass — Shower glass range
- Mico — Shower doors and panels
- Reece — Shower systems
- Plumbline — Buddy glass-to-glass shower hinge
